Converting wheels to hub centric
Converting wheels to hub centric
What have you guys done to get aftermarket rims to make them become hubcentric? I've heard of hub centric aluminum rings that press into the back of rim and allow the rim to rest on Axle flange, have you guys had any problems just running 5/8s Studs? I do plan on hucking my rig and I really don't want to lose a wheel
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Re: Converting wheels to hub centric
5/8 studs, 14 years, 30,000 race miles, zero stud failures. Hub centric could also be made to work.
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- funinthesun95
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Re: Converting wheels to hub centric
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... 4&start=60
Ryan's 91 or Ryan B has Sandy Cone made adaptor for 44TTB hub Centric
with this style set up the load is moved to snout? or knuckle and snout?
Thanks Guys new to me
Ryan's 91 or Ryan B has Sandy Cone made adaptor for 44TTB hub Centric
with this style set up the load is moved to snout? or knuckle and snout?
Thanks Guys new to me
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Re: Converting wheels to hub centric
The Cone adapters would work well. Nice guy and fantastic products. All of the wheels would have to be machined to match the adapters.
- Wrightracing.net
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Re: Converting wheels to hub centric
When you have to machine the wheels, does it mean off the shelf wheels 5 on 5.5 rims will no longer fit? That could be a bummer if you are deep into Baja and in need of a rim.
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Re: Converting wheels to hub centric
The reason nobody runs 5x5.5 hub-centric is because everyone who wants to runs 8x6.5 which is way more bang for your buck than machining 5x5.5 rims or making inserts. Why anyone would run a part that's one flat tire away from being destroyed that isn't COTS is beyond me.
That's my $0.02 but there's dually hubs and H1 rims in my future so draw your own conclusions.
That's my $0.02 but there's dually hubs and H1 rims in my future so draw your own conclusions.
Re: Converting wheels to hub centric
Alright good to know, just wanted to see if there was a simple way, I'll just run the 5/8s studs then, so far no problems300 wrote:5/8 studs, 14 years, 30,000 race miles, zero stud failures. Hub centric could also be made to work.
- Wrightracing.net
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Re: Converting wheels to hub centric
arse_sidewards wrote: That's my $0.02 but there's dually hubs and H1 rims in my future so draw your own conclusions.
I am thinking about going to the H1 military beadlocks on my Bronco and recenter a 5 on 5.5 mounting section. Then I can run the new BFG Baja TA 37" surplus tires. I can get them for $175 with 90% tread on them.
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Re: Converting wheels to hub centric
I don't even pay $175 for a full set of tires with rims......Wrightracing.net wrote:arse_sidewards wrote: That's my $0.02 but there's dually hubs and H1 rims in my future so draw your own conclusions.
I am thinking about going to the H1 military beadlocks on my Bronco and recenter a 5 on 5.5 mounting section. Then I can run the new BFG Baja TA 37" surplus tires. I can get them for $175 with 90% tread on them.
Here's my unabridged $0.02:
My rational behind H1s is that it lets me do cheapskate things (crappy tires) cheaper, easier and safer. My truck is also very much a truck first and a toy second so I won't be running the surplus 37s anytime soon. The ground clearance and slight increase in ride quality wouldn't be worth the inconvenience of ride height (loading/unloading as well as fuel economy) and fender trimming.
I'm dead set on keeping tire size on my truck under 35" because IMO it's the threshold where a huge amount of additional work and is needed to keep the front end system working properly and not break things. Any used tire under 35" is also a lot cheaper. I don't want to larger than the 33s I have now because they're cutting it pretty close on clearance at the front of the fenders (both axles are pushed forward about 1-2") and rub on the radius arms.
H1s with a rubber run-flat are desirable to me because it's the best split rims option for what I do. I want split rims specifically so I can mount my own tires and save a bundle of money since I prefer to run junkyard tires and tire-shop takeoffs. The only other split rim options are reproduction JEEP rims (which are 5x5.5 but not suitable for use on a 5000lb truck that sees hard use) or 1950s-1960s 3/4-ton+ rims (suitable for the load but just as much work to use as the H1 rims). Obviously the H1 rim is the best option because it's the cheaper, stronger and had infinitely more beadlocks than the other options (at the expense of being heavier, but that ship sailed awhile ago).
The stock offset on the H1 is somewhat of an issue because it's too little for dually hubs and too much for the spacers for sale all over eBay. Re-centering isn't a viable option for me since doing so would defeat the point of being cheap. Since I've got occasional access to a lathe I'd like to whip up some steel spacers give them the same offset as stock rims but I'm probably just going to modify some D50 knuckles to have the proper ball-joint spacing and then use dually D60 hubs.
I'm really only looking for a split rim but if it weren't for the beadlock, (rubber) run-flat insert, 4000lb+ rating and price of H1s, split rims wouldn't be worth the bother and tradeoffs (more dangerous for idiots) for what they provide.
Converting to 8-lug and using H1s is kind of a package deal that seems to fit my case well. I'm not sure if I should look at it as "converting to 8-lug lets me use H1s" or "converting to 8-lug to use H1s comes with the added strength of 8-lug components." Either way they complement each other.