front true trac issue

[TexasBronco]

thats the new style like the one I have. You have to put a spring in the passenger side slip yoke. Still haven't got mine together but, I'm off tommorrow so hopefully it will be back on four wheels soon.

[funinthesun95]

So was the C clip the problem?

[TexasBronco]

sorry I still don't have it back together, been working all the time. The problem I'm having is on the driver's side so the C clip or lack there of is not the issue. I had to replace the ball joints again and have the knuckle hanging on the beam is as far as I have gotten. If I ever get a day off I'm sure I can be going again in a few hours. I'm starting to have Bronco withdraws.

[TexasBronco]

started putting it back together the other day, I'm starting to think ya'll are right about my beams being the problem. Its together but everything is still bound up. not sure if its the c/t or the need to clock the diff or both. I emailed southwest and still waiting on their reply. Does anyone else reclock diffs? Also, I stretched 2 spindle bolts and JBG is saying 3 week back order from Dana. I knew I should have just left it stock.

[PaulW]

Lessons can be learned about buying vs DIY build.
DIY and you blame yourself.
Buying same deal except there will be no issues if you buy from the main stream companies. Why not buy from a company that has a reputation for high quality that lots of happy customers? Yup they charge more and the fitment is without a hassle.

Regarding bolted vs the C-clip. There must be a dozen ways to make the spring thing work. Which one do you choose and why do so many have a do-over. Ford made a bunch of bolted diffs. Why not use a setup that the factory engineers designed? None of us have any issues with bolted diffs. The only issue is worn out 1980ish bearings that most of did not replace.
Removing the c-clip is a getto build and expect issues.

[robertcrav]

Texas Bronco your best calling southwest 858-449-2292

[TexasBronco]

would gladly have went with a bolt-on housing if I could have found one. Our salvage yards here are more concerned with selling to the scrap yards and not with selling parts. As for DIYing it, in this area its my only option. The few shops here only build mud rigs and side-by-sides. But, when your in the swamp what else can you expect?

[TexasBronco]

also, the new true tracs don't even have a way to put the c-clip in, I'm sure Detroit didn't think it was ghetto

[TexasBronco]

Sorry PaulW didn't mean to rant I need to learn not post while ticked off. I thank everyone for all the help.

[PaulW]

I live in the boon docks in CO and bolted diffs are acquired off Ebay just like most everything I need for my vehicles. My buddy just had a bolted diff with axles delivered last week from an internet source. There are plenty of them available somewhere and the Internet sellers will have them. Google is your friend.
Paul

[TexasBronco]

yeah I've checked ebay and only ever find the c-clip housings. What do you type in when you search?

[PaulW]

Google looks pretty thin for what you need. I will ask my buddy for his source.
Call these guys and ask them if they will go to the Phoenix pick & pull and get you one. http://www.drivenautoparts.com/
Ask ToddZ which yard has the most and jump in your rig and go pull one for yourself.
Been to PX yards and found plenty of them.
Also call the numerous Bronco vendors and see if any have the things in stock.
Gofastbronco.com has a vendor thread.

[TexasBronco]

Well finally broke down and called Autofab. Told him what was going on and he informed me that my $300 beams I was so proud of can go in the scrap pile. So, hopefully after some more overtime I can order a real set of beams and get back on the road. Another vote for not skimping on beams, do it right and save the headaches, its cheaper in the long run. Also, want to thank Autofab for taking the time to help.

[cs_drums]

Good site for tracking down specific parts is car-part.com

You can search the whole country for very specific parts.

[funinthesun95]

Texasbronco


I know you said your not the best with computers any Pictures of the beams on truck ,bear...etc? Not sure if we can help this way but might be worth a look...not going to hurt at least

If you go autofab do they have a core charge? I cant remember

[ChaseTruck754]

Yes John typically wants a core.

[BDKW1]

I think if was 150$ core charge if you didn't have any. But that was a few years ago and I had some...........

[DLB]

As far as the spring trick and retainer :

Called the Eaton Rep and he says that you do not need anything, they (Eaton) have not made the tombstone style Dana 44 Tru Trac for several years. He says that the spring trick is only needed if it rattles. Anybody ever try this ?

[baja-chris]

It has nothing to do with the diff per say, the issue is the axle is on a slip yoke because it's a TTB and needs to be retained in the diff by some mechanism otherwise it will work its way out. There is only a little over an inch of spline engagement inside the front diff. Solid axle D44 apps do not have this issue because there is no splined slip in the axle so it can't go anywhere.

One way to retain the axle in the diff is with a c-clip, this was how the factory did it from 1983-1996. Another way is with a collar pressed onto the axle to lock the bearing in place then a ring bolted behind that to the third member to lock the axle in, like a semi-floater rear. This is the "bolted diff". If neither of these methods is used you need a spring inside the splined slip yoke to press the axle into the diff so it does not work it's way out.

The guy at Eaton who told you not to worry about it is probably thinking about solid axles and not the TTB axle which has to change length as it cycles.

[baja-chris]

So here's a new (to me) tru trac issue. Pulled ours out of the racer yesterday and found the bolts that retain the end plates on the differential had all backed out and the heads were wearing away on the bearing cap. Not good.

Diff guy told me he has seen that on very high torque applications, in particular high shock loads. He said as the gears that limit slip bind up (as intended) they press outward against these end plates. And he has seen the bolts stretch and then become loose. Looks like what happened to ours. He is going to do a full tear down, clean it up, check for more damage and put back together with new bearings and bolts. Red loctite. The Ultra4 race might be the one that overwhelmed it. We had high enough loads to snap two front axle shafts that weekend before we tore the whole front corner off the car. Never had a problem with this diff with 35" tires. Yet another example of how 37's are harder on parts?