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What’s the go to route for a oil pressure gauge? I think I would want one right? Maybe some more gauges. Not sure where it connects to though


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Doesn't it have one in the factory instrument cluster?

SteveG wrote:Doesn't it have one in the factory instrument cluster?

Actually yes it does but not sure i trust it as this bronco has been ran through if you know what I mean. PO did a whole bunch


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Buy an aftermarket electrical gauge and replace the stock sensor with the one that comes with the new gauge. If the two gauges agree then return the new one.
Or buy a mechanical gauge and necessary fittings and a short hose. Compare the new mechanical gauge readings with stock. If they agree then return the mechanical gauge.
Otherwise take the rig to a shop and have them do one of the above. Should cost less than an hour of labor. Cheaper than buying the stuff above.

Most of the oil pressure gauges in the later model (90's) OEM panels really aren't reading pressure, they are really just a glorified idiot light. Have you noticed they always go to the same place and don't vary whether the engine is idling or at cruise? The contact closes when the pressure comes up, and a fixed voltage goes to the gauge as long as you have minimum pressure. You may be able to put another sender in there that actually provides an analog output proportionate to pressure, but to get a real pressure reading, you need a real pressure gauge. Most small block Fords have the sender at the left front of the block. Then I just see you have a Dodge Ram listed as your vehicle?

300 wrote:Most of the oil pressure gauges in the later model (90's) OEM panels really aren't reading pressure, they are really just a glorified idiot light. Have you noticed they always go to the same place and don't vary whether the engine is idling or at cruise? The contact closes when the pressure comes up, and a fixed voltage goes to the gauge as long as you have minimum pressure. You may be able to put another sender in there that actually provides an analog output proportionate to pressure, but to get a real pressure reading, you need a real pressure gauge. Most small block Fords have the sender at the left front of the block. Then I just see you have a Dodge Ram listed as your vehicle?

Sorry that is old news now. Have been working on a 1995 bronco. Just about to get it running and trying to ensure the basics are covered and correct


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300 wrote:Most of the oil pressure gauges in the later model (90's) OEM panels really aren't reading pressure, they are really just a glorified idiot light. Have you noticed they always go to the same place and don't vary whether the engine is idling or at cruise? The contact closes when the pressure comes up, and a fixed voltage goes to the gauge as long as you have minimum pressure. You may be able to put another sender in there that actually provides an analog output proportionate to pressure, but to get a real pressure reading, you need a real pressure gauge. Most small block Fords have the sender at the left front of the block. Then I just see you have a Dodge Ram listed as your vehicle?

I don't know if this is true on the full-size, but on first generation Explorers, you could remove a resistor on the instrument cluster (and connect the contacts direct), which would allow the gauge to display immediate readings. Whereas in stock form, the gauge is very slow to respond to any changes.

That said, I've never really worried about oil pressure. I figure you've either got it or you don't, and the few seconds between when your gauge says you do and you don't aren't going to make that much of a difference. But I'm weird, so don't do as I do!

I have a aftermarket electric VDO gauge plus the factory idiot light on my F-truck. I figure that if the light is off, all is good (it goes out at 15psi). The gauge tells me what's actually going on when I have time to check. Hot at idle, I have 45 - 50psi with 20W-50 and 80psi cold. The engine is still tight, with only about 300 miles on it.

You could run a pillar pod and fit a couple of aftermarket gauges there to keep a more accurate eye on temps, pressures etc.

I THINK- you snip that resistor and you use a sender from earlier trucks and you’re now reading pressure.

VintageIronFab wrote:I THINK- you snip that resistor and you use a sender from earlier trucks and you’re now reading pressure.

I believe I have heard that as well. I am just not sure what the year break is for the earlier trucks with actual analog senders. I know that a 68 would still have the analog sender but couldn't say if it has the correct range for the later trucks. I also know that when I want to read things in psi I install a mechanical gauge and move on.

AussieRod wrote:I have a aftermarket electric VDO gauge plus the factory idiot light on my F-truck. I figure that if the light is off, all is good (it goes out at 15psi). The gauge tells me what's actually going on when I have time to check. Hot at idle, I have 45 - 50psi with 20W-50 and 80psi cold. The engine is still tight, with only about 300 miles on it.

You could run a pillar pod and fit a couple of aftermarket gauges there to keep a more accurate eye on temps, pressures etc.

20w50? Man, you've got molasses for oil! lol Or is that a propane thing?

For 95 Bronco the Ford spec for hot idle is 20psi @2000RPM when using 10W30 oil. The light goes out at 5psi. These numbers are from the factory manual

Becks_Bronco wrote:

AussieRod wrote:I have a aftermarket electric VDO gauge plus the factory idiot light on my F-truck. I figure that if the light is off, all is good (it goes out at 15psi). The gauge tells me what's actually going on when I have time to check. Hot at idle, I have 45 - 50psi with 20W-50 and 80psi cold. The engine is still tight, with only about 300 miles on it.

You could run a pillar pod and fit a couple of aftermarket gauges there to keep a more accurate eye on temps, pressures etc.

20w50? Man, you've got molasses for oil! lol Or is that a propane thing?

Nah. I run it for the first 1000 km, then change to a 15W40. The pressure cold will drop a little then.

AussieRod wrote:

Becks_Bronco wrote:

AussieRod wrote:I have a aftermarket electric VDO gauge plus the factory idiot light on my F-truck. I figure that if the light is off, all is good (it goes out at 15psi). The gauge tells me what's actually going on when I have time to check. Hot at idle, I have 45 - 50psi with 20W-50 and 80psi cold. The engine is still tight, with only about 300 miles on it.

You could run a pillar pod and fit a couple of aftermarket gauges there to keep a more accurate eye on temps, pressures etc.

20w50? Man, you've got molasses for oil! lol Or is that a propane thing?

Nah. I run it for the first 1000 km, then change to a 15W40. The pressure cold will drop a little then.

15w40 is diesel oil.

Any reason not to run 5w30, or 0w20?

Becks_Bronco wrote:

AussieRod wrote:Nah. I run it for the first 1000 km, then change to a 15W40. The pressure cold will drop a little then.

15w40 is diesel oil.

Any reason not to run 5w30, or 0w20?

Yes. 20W50 has been my go-to every day oil for Clevos for decades. I run 15W40 (available here for gasoline or diesel engines) only in winter, so the oil will flow faster on cold start-up.
My race engines run Penrite 50 (25W60), because the clearances are looser and it holds up much better under high stress (read 7800 rpm).