Please give me your opinion on my driveline angles

[sydude]

After 18 years of service and a botched self-replacement of the double cardon CV joint, my driveshaft finally needed a rebuild. I just had it done and just put it in, and it now drives sooo nicely. But I'm concerned with my additional lift that my angles are hurting the driveshaft and it's not going to last. I took a bunch of pictures of it, and would really appreciate your advice on if I'm putting the driveshaft in trouble with the angles I'm now running.

Thanks!

Here are the pics:

IMG_1549.jpg (77.03 KiB) Viewed 1043 times

IMG_1550.jpg (78.61 KiB) Viewed 1043 times

IMG_1551.jpg (79.72 KiB) Viewed 1043 times

IMG_1552.jpg (77.62 KiB) Viewed 1043 times

[philofab]

Did you take the factory wedge block out? The pinion looks low on the back.

[sydude]

Did you take the factory wedge block out? The pinion looks low on the back.

No, I left it in. I did put extended camburg shackles in, though, and that reduces the pinion angle a bit.

[PaulW]

Sure looks like you have to much angle at both ends. A good prep shop would not let it go back to the owner like that.
Do more research . Start with
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showth ... =driveline
and read the links
Forget about the wedges and move the spring pads and change the drive train angle by lowering it at the rear of the transfer in order to get the angles correct.
Normally you would setup for static with as little angle on the DC or UJ as you can get.
Maybe you have to much lift??. Measure your DS plunge.

BTW, The stock UJ & DC are pretty undersized for our gofast use and regular rebuild should be expected. My angles are as good as we could get with my 1" transfer drop & rear llink - result, my UJs are surviving, but both DC have been rebuilt. I was told for prerunning I should expect a rebuild every 2 years. I go much longer.
Paul

[Copykat]

They don't look bad to me.

You do want a bit of angle on the joints to keep the needles rolling. When it's too perfect is when you start to go through joints.

From what I have been told and through experiences is to set up the angle correct if your running a non DC shaft you need the flanges at the same angle.

But a DC shaft should have the pinion pointed at the trans/t-case output.

Personally with my DC shaft I have it pointed at the t-case but tipped it down a couple of degrees. This helps under acceleration as the pinion wants to rotate upwards, and keeps the perfect line under loads.

[Polarcub]

To my untrained Eye I would be a bit concerned. I would start with moving the rear perches the pinion looks like it could give you some problems especially under hard use. I am with Paul on the transfer case output it looks pretty severe to me. I think you can get away with it if your not getting any vibrations etc now but I would keep a close eye on things.

[philofab]

I would probably rotate the pinion up a little. The drive line on my truck isn't that severe but I think you truck may have a shorter drive line due to the E4OD. If possible I would also lower the rear trans mount about an inch...

What you have now looks like it would wear u-joints quickly. It might be a good idea to add a safety loop in case of a breakage. When I broke my double cardan joint I ended up destroying the exhaust and putting a dent in a cheap shock, I have since added one so the drive shaft is less likely to damage $600 shocks.

[PaulW]

Listen for new squeeks or clicks. First look for broken leafs. Then check for loosness or play on the DC and the UJ for both front & rear DS. Catch it early and save money and prevent a complete failure. Its even worth takeing the DS off to examine for play. While it is out verify the slip joint moves freely.
These thngs are what I did and I found worn DC both front & rear.
The thing runs silent now.
Paul

[sydude]

Many thanks, guys. I just ordered a new set of perches from ruffstuff, with which I'll remove the wedge and I'll rotate the pinion up.

How do I lower the transfer case down best?

[Copykat]

OK maybe mines's not that bad.

Here is with the doubler.


Without.

[PaulW]

Many thanks, guys. I just ordered a new set of perches from ruffstuff, with which I'll remove the wedge and I'll rotate the pinion up.

How do I lower the transfer case down best?

===========
Start by loosening the rad fan shround do the fan wont hit when you lower the back of the transfer. Use your floor jack to hold the thing up when you unbolt everything.
The crossmenber is relocated lower by drilling new holes. My skid has spacers about 1" dia and 3/8" id. When done in the back then center the fan in the shroud by making new holes in the shroud.
Paul

[magic carpet XLT]

i got a high angle driveline 1350 CV shaft and that solved all the issues i ever had with rear drivelines. been going strong for about 4 years now with only greasing. pretty sure i have a more severe static angle than that, my truck rides a lot higher than most of your guys.