GoFastBroncos.com

Two questions: Can I just put a single in/out on the rear line to keep it simple? Are the threads metric on a 96?

i dont see why not. i am pretty sure that your lines are metric.
my ranger had single in/out to reaR and worked fine.

I'll give a second "I think so" to the metric. If you will be upgrading to rear disks - or if you already have them I'll suggest the wilwood adjustable prop valve for the rear. Granted your "trucK' might not see the drastic change in weight that mine (pickup - not a bronco) will, but it's nice to have adjustablility if the load in the back changes.

Thanks fellas. Yeah, I've got Wilwoods in the back, so I'll probably use their unit....'cause that's how I roll. Haha!

Just curious. I have never needed a prop valve either with the Wilwoods or with the present Ford calipers. Works fine. What is the issue?

Yes the oem threads are all metric on a 96. The aftermarket is a mixed bag. Mostly sae except where the aftermarket mates with the oem parts. Don't know what year ford migrated to metric.

What I really need is a hydroboost In work now as soon as I get some cooperation from the suppliers.
Paul W

PaulW wrote:Just curious. I have never needed a prop valve either with the Wilwoods or with the present Ford calipers. Works fine. What is the issue?

Paul - I removed all of the ABS equipment, which included the factory proportioning system.

i ran a lever type,it was nice to be able to adjust on the fly rally style...

yikes wrote:

PaulW wrote:Just curious. I have never needed a prop valve either with the Wilwoods or with the present Ford calipers. Works fine. What is the issue?

Paul - I removed all of the ABS equipment, which included the factory proportioning system.

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Here is my take.
Putting the stock system back in and even if it had issues it probably is better that re-engineering a critical system. Repairs are easy to come by for used parts since they rarely have issues.

For a racer re-engineering with adjustable prop valve is desirable for changes on the fly by the driver. That requires two masters with the rocker lever. For a racer the cost would not be an issue and the result would be desirable. Check with CNC for parts. And do not forget the monster calipers and the metalic pads. And the need for huge boost in braking power without leg strain.

Did I mention stock brake boost is inadequate? !!!

PW

PW did you keep the OEM ABS system and put OEM calipers on a 9"?

I pulled the relay for ABS since I dont use it and it seems it would be nice just to remove that whole unit on the frame rail and replumb.

I noticed from 70 to 0 in panic my bronco doesnt do very well on pavement. I almost went through an intersection on 395 saturday. ABS wouldnt have mattered as the tires never locked up which tells me my brake system is pretty weak granted I dont want them to lock up but I want to know there is enough braking power that they CAN lock up.

In the dirt my bronco stops on a dime but I think that is the tire compound and tread and weight of the vehicle all contributing to make it stop faster than the pickups I am usually testing in dirt.

shockseals.com wrote:I noticed from 70 to 0 in panic my bronco doesnt do very well on pavement. I almost went through an intersection on 395 saturday.

The brakes on these things are pretty weak. There are a few upgrades for the older Broncos (like mine) using stock parts. Different boosters, masters and Thunderbird brake calipers. I don't know the details or if there are "stock" upgrades for the newer stuff but it might be worth investigating.

SteveG wrote:

shockseals.com wrote:I noticed from 70 to 0 in panic my bronco doesnt do very well on pavement. I almost went through an intersection on 395 saturday.

The brakes on these things are pretty weak. There are a few upgrades for the older Broncos (like mine) using stock parts. Different boosters, masters and Thunderbird brake calipers. I don't know the details or if there are "stock" upgrades for the newer stuff but it might be worth investigating.

I'm told that switching to an f350 mc and brake booster makes a big difference.

Will bigger brakes in the rear help much or will they just lock up? I figure when I go to a 9" I will put the biggest brakes on I can fit.

Kris,
OEM ABS, Stock front calipers with drilled & slotted rotors and Hawk pads. Rear calipers are Ford calipers with the cam that acts as a park brake. Like used on Turus SHO & svt Mustang. I have a new boost system in work. It wont improve fade but I expect better control and less effort. The goal is 4 tire lockup on pavement.
I will keep the ABS and use my switch for off road just like always.

If you want great brakes go Hydroboost conversion off a Chevy Astro, or Ford Super duty. I have a similar HB system on my 72 Bronco and the thing will stop on a dime on pavement. No ABS on the vintage trucks. Lots of threads on HB on FSB forum.
Paul
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shockseals.com wrote:PW did you keep the OEM ABS system and put OEM calipers on a 9"?

I pulled the relay for ABS since I dont use it and it seems it would be nice just to remove that whole unit on the frame rail and replumb.

I noticed from 70 to 0 in panic my bronco doesnt do very well on pavement. I almost went through an intersection on 395 saturday. ABS wouldnt have mattered as the tires never locked up which tells me my brake system is pretty weak granted I dont want them to lock up but I want to know there is enough braking power that they CAN lock up.

In the dirt my bronco stops on a dime but I think that is the tire compound and tread and weight of the vehicle all contributing to make it stop faster than the pickups I am usually testing in dirt.

My wifes Jeep had the worst brakes I have ever experienced. Made the heavy Bronco look pretty good. The big tires just made it worse. The fix - Ford calipers, EBC pads & new rotors. The Ford calipers were off a much bigger truck.
Up grade your brakes is a good thing.
Paul

Kinda along the same topic, what way do you guys prefer to bleed brakes? I've done the 2 person (one pumps the brake) other opens bleed screw and I've done the single one-man-bleed kit (cheap one from Kragen) and they all seem to give me poor results. I've looked in the Motive Brake Bleeder, but I've also researching gravity bleeding. The research I've done tells me that the gravity way might be a legit way more than some give credit. For $45 bucks the Discount Tire down the street they will flush and bleed the brakes, but for that same amount I could buy the Motive speed bleeder and flush the system myself.

Sorry not to be off topic to much, but just wondering what others do.

I too vote for the hydroboost. I haven't run one personally, but buddies have and love them. I am putting them in both of my '74's.

On my '74 2wd I am also doing the Thunderbird caliper upgrade Steve mentioned since I needed to buy calipers for it anyways.

Oh - and on that note - I am looking for a couple small brake parts. If you have a second - take a look below at my shameless plug...
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... ?f=9&t=966