Rear Exploder Disc Brake ???

[VintageIronFab]

Hello All,
Well I think that I have messed with my rear drums I think for about the last damn time. For some reason the rear adjusters dont really lock in place like they are supposed to and that is with brand new parts (the cables are too long from what I gather). I just personally dont like messing with the drum brakes myself.

Anyway I think I know what I need but a little confirmation would be great. If I go and take a set of say a 94 Explorer rear brake brackets they will just bolt on the FSB 8.8 correct. Next, are the E-brake cables-- will the drum FSB E-brake cables work or do I need the Explorer cables off the donor as well? Are there any parts off the Explorer chassis to make the E-brake work right? Last are the rotors, is the best way to get rotors directly from Currie with the 5x5.5" pattern or take a set and modify them? There is a yard here in Phx that has about a dozen of the right Explorers if the backing plates and such are good to go. I can also find the ones that have literally brand new parts on them that bring down the costs even more..

Thx,
Matt

[PaulW]

Drawback is the drum park brake that collects rocks and flimsy plates holding the thing on. Option is Ford made by Varga, but then you need some custom stuff like cable & back plate Cable is not as big of a deal as the plate. Advantage is cam operated caliper for park brake. Get calipers at any auto parts store and avoid rebuild of salvage ones. My calipers are 90 Ford Superbird. There are other Fords that use that Varga.

[VintageIronFab]

Paul-- Ill be honest-- I am so not as hardcore as you are. Main thing is not really wanting to do the custom thing more than having or buying some redrilled rotors. The Varga parts look nice but fabricating a bracket as you know is always a time murderer and I really want stick to a bolt on as much as possible.

[Jbfab]

I have the explorer setup but dont run an e brake. I had the rotors machined at a local shop. Draw back was i had to 45 the face of my axle flang. Im ditching it, using a ruffstuff caliper bracket (weld on) using 86 bronco front rotors and chevy calipers. Some two pistons are available from wilwood. Only flaw in my plan that i seen was again the axle flanges will have to be machined down. Nothing i cant handle with jack stands and an angle grinder. Do it once and never worry again, all off the shelf parts. With the expy setup you will have to machine new rotors each time or order a new set and wait. But what if you need it today? I also like the idea of vented rotors over solid ones.

[Rmc]

What's your time worth? ( fuel, hunting each salvage yard, modifying parts ect)

http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=230904147795

[Rmc]

Here's the large bearing version.

http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=230871267818

[tcm glx]

Another option
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TeraFlex-435440 ... 06&vxp=mtr

[VintageIronFab]

RMC-- I really dont like the idea of using the Cadillac calipers just because in the EB community they are used and many dont feel like the e-brake is very effective.

Tony--Great link!!! I really do like the Explorer stuff -- so they are at $389 shipped

So if you are buying via Oreillys here is the breakdown for the Ex parts:
-calipers: $37 exchange each
-rotors: $75 each -- from Currie with a 5x5 1/2 pattern - $99 each if you want the drilled ones.
-Brake pads: $20 cheapys
-Parking Brake Pads: $25
------So this totals $187 but you really need the mounting plates-- guessing those are $60 from the yards here in Phx. Brand new parking brake cables if you need them are about $60 new or probably $20 used. Thats about $315+$25 for tax thats $335 -- thats not to mention at least $25 in gas driving around looking for all these parts.

All said and done I am sure you can manage cheaper but for about $450 shipped you can have all the parts at your door and no tax. Thats vs. $575 from Currie. The rotors are what makes the expense. If you are a machinist and had some used good rotors the cost is about zero. Best thing about having the 5x5" kit is that if you blow up the 8.8 rear end-- you can still re-sell all the stuff to either another bronco guy or Jeep guy.

[panabax]

I swapped in an 8.8 from an '01 F150. It's not a bolt on but it is not too tough either. Here is the to do list on mods:

Re-drill axles to 5x5.5 or get custom axles from Moser.
Re-drill rotors to 5x5.5
Cut off and weld in new shock mounts
Cut off and weld in new spring perch (optional - I did this to ditch the factory wedge)
Rig up the e-brake cable from the donor vehicle
New 4 wheel disc MC from donor vehicle

This route requires at least 16" wheels
Redrilling the rotors is too easy to pay someone to do. You can do it with a hand drill
Re-drilling the axles is doable with a drill press, but I went with custom axles (unfortunately, the 92-96 axle is about 1/2" too short)

I added a sag pump and hydro boost and all I have to do is decide to stop and my truck stops. Before the changeover, with 35s, stopping in a hurray was fairly nerv racking.

It's not a bolt on, but it is the disc setup Ford would have used on this truck if they made it after 1996 and all the parts are super easy to source (to remember) and they are affordable. There is no doubt it is a much stouter disc brake setup than from the explorers.

Baxter

[Seabass]

Properly operating drums have more friction material contact than discs and can do a lot of stopping. Whats giving you the grief in the existing setup?

[ChaseTruck754]

I'm assuming the annoyance of the brake job itself on a drum setup. I'm one of the guys who hates drums with a passion simply because I'm lazy & like the ease of a disk setup