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Has anyone used the Moog Caster Camber adjustable bushing for their
TTB ball joints? Whats is you experience with them? Good or Bad?

I just use the standard alignment bushings but those work fine. .. just as advertised. They're actually made by Ingalls and re-labeled by several companies.

I have heard (and have zero experience) that they crack on the inside adjuster if hammered on. I'm sure this is all relative to how hard you use your truck. Kind of makes sense though. The solid slugs have some more matrerial and no room for play. I like the idea of those because you don't need a bucket of selective parts to do an alignment.

The guy that does our alignments at work says the two piece cams suck. He will only install the fixed degree one piece units. His issue with them is that they can slip out of alignment. That's his claim anyway.

Ive been running them without issue so far. I dunno if that helps but its only been to the alignment shop twice for tires and a check.

I have had the Rancho ones on mine for almost 20 years and they are adjustable. Now I have not taken them apart in 5 or 6 year so they may be trashed by now. When I redo the front end it all gets new stuff.

Mine are oem. I've never had a need to replace them.

I have the 2 piece on mine with no problems. I do my own alignments though. The only way it's turning out of adjust is if the ball joints nut wasn't torqued down.

You all that beat the snot out of your trucks have the adjustable bushings? Do they last is my question if you are hard on the front end?

The adjustable cams are good for alignment shops that don't want to stock a bunch of different eccentric bushings. They can stock one part number instead of... I don't know how many. At work, we don't stock them and don't use them. We have no problem stocking multiple part numbers even though they are not fast movers. In fact, it's not cost-effective for us to keep so many in stock but we don't like to have to wait for parts so we keep them on the ready.

For my own TTB trucks, when modifying, I install either zero-degree eccentrics (if available) or the lowest degree units I have on hand. Typically, 1/2 degree as the zeros are hard to find. I install them either at full positive or full negative and, using a paint marker, I write the degree eccentric and the direction it's pointed right on the beam so the alignment tech knows exactly what's in it and where it's pointed... makes it easier to figure out what to install and how to adjust.

so basically spend the coin- have it aligned and just use a fixed bushing- thats gonna be the strongest??

VintageIronFab wrote:so basically spend the coin- have it aligned and just use a fixed bushing- thats gonna be the strongest??

That's my approach. Not so much because it's the strongest but because it's convenient for me. But, logic tells us that fewer parts is better, so a one-piece would be better?