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Anyone had any issues re-flaring stock brake lines? Removed my abs, need to remove Ford bubble flare and add standard fitting with double flare. 95 bronco

No issues. Make sure you use a quality tool to do it with Lisle makes the flaring tool for most of the big name tool companies (snap on mac matco). Just be sure not to crush it at the end of the flare and do not apply side pressure when flaring.

damon1272 wrote:No issues. Make sure you use a quality tool to do it with Lisle makes the flaring tool for most of the big name tool companies (snap on mac matco). Just be sure not to crush it at the end of the flare and do not apply side pressure when flaring.

Thanks!

We don't do a lot of re-flaring at work, but we have mixed results. Even with the Snap-On tool. New line is usually no problem, but working with existing (older) factory is sometimes a challenge. The material does not seem as forgiving as the off-the-shelf parts store stuff. The parts store stuff is also not as durable, though.

Whatever you use, just be patient and take your time.

I agree with Steve. When you flare, do it slow as to not crack the flare, and that happens easily. Also, check to make sure there are no burrs when you're finished because if there is a small burr, the brake lines will never seal. I spent two days after work trying to re-flare my rear brake line. I have the cheap flare tool though.

Older lines are already work hardened.

I got to use a friends hydraulic flaring tool.... a little bulky but worked very nice!

It is very important when doing a double flare to cut the line carefully and as straight as possible which means a quality tube cutter. Also very important is to denied the inside edge of the tube after being cut and to use the exact proper flaring adapter to do the first flare. The amount if stickout you need past the holding clamp also needs to be precise. Usually the flaring adapter will have a shoulder you can use to set that amount perfectly. If you have too much or too little the flare wont turn out. Good luck! Factory lines can be a bitch they are thicker and hot galvanized. I make custom hardlines all the time at work and I use just a standard off the shelf tool set and rarely have any problems. New line or old it takes doing it a bunch to get it down

I just broke a line on my 72EB. I cut off 1.5" of line so as to get a straight shot and measured carefully. Grabbed the HF double flare tool and made the flare. Screwed it back on the master. Wish me luck. It will be a while before its back on the road. The shop down the hwy can do a do-over if necessary. Pretty sure I can get it the necessary 10 miles even with a leak. Sigh

Its what I do as I live a long way from help.

The EB has a Corvette master and I used an adapter Chevy master to Ford thread adapter which screwed up the line angle to master.
HB conversion.

My stuff never goes together in a simple manner. No wonder it takes me so long. I wont bore you all with the EB electrical stuff. I now have the EFI manual and will proceed in making it right.

Figured out all this stuff myself and that takes even longer. Sometimes it take longer than asking Google. Ha
PW

Paul, I have many hours of EEC IV wiring research under my belt and a bunch of Ford diagrams as well. If you have any questions or need info, let me know and I'll do my best to help.

I just started final prep of the EFI harness for my Bronco today.