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I am sure this problem has been posted before but how can you stop the interior door panel from rattling, shakying, etc. Have a 1996 with all power options.
Thanks.

turn up the stereo.

Nick, was waiting to see who was the first to post that !!!

robjs111 wrote:I am sure this problem has been posted before but how can you stop the interior door panel from rattling, shakying, etc. Have a 1996 with all power options.
Thanks.

Add some tek screws or glue them down...If anything makes noise its the dash...both my bottom supports have cracked off from prerunning mostly due to washboard roads.

New panel clips, add some screws, and put duct tape anywhere two pieces of plastic rub.

I just replaced the plastic pieces and added some screws.

philofab wrote:New panel clips, add some screws, and put duct tape anywhere two pieces of plastic rub.

This is good advice. Replace every single clip every time you remove the panel. Also make sure all the screws are there and replace them with a slightly larger screw if the holes are stripped.

SteveG wrote:

philofab wrote:New panel clips, add some screws, and put duct tape anywhere two pieces of plastic rub.

This is good advice. Replace every single clip every time you remove the panel. Also make sure all the screws are there and replace them with a slightly larger screw if the holes are stripped.

X2 with what Steve and Philo said. That's what I did.

Clops dont last long where I drive. When the clips are impossible look at the back of the panel and drill holes where the standoffs are, then use as many clips as possible and put in rubber washer roofing screws thru the holes you drilled. After many tries the above method has survived the longest. Some perimeter screws are also necessary at the panel rear and sometimes the bottom using shorter screws.
The screws are Torx round head so they don't catch on loose clothing. Paint to match Black and grey are common.
PaulW

Besides making sure all the clips are there or switching to screws to hold it on steady you can do some trimming that makes a big difference on some. The hard plastic portion near the wind wing should be trimmed back a little so it doesnt rub on the metal of the door. It should only touch the door in the pad locations. The plastic to metal makes a lot of noise with barely any movement.

I added new clips, a couple of screws and siliconed the crap out of them.....

I had the same problem. Here is how I solved it. Since I bought my truck the damn door panel screws have always been stripped-out. The truck only had 76,000 miles and the previous owner had tried to use drywall screws, larger sheet metal screws and bolts to try to get them to stop falling out, causing the door panel to rattle. I had to find a solution.

I was browsing through the hardware section on McMaster-Carr's website and found rivet-nuts. They are basically rivets with threads on the inside. I ordered the installation tool, some rivet-nuts and screws and got to work.

Here is the door panel. All loose and annoying.


Start by taking the door panel off.(If you couldn't figure that one out)


Here is the culprit.


Drill out the old holes with the correct size for the rivet-nut. McMaster-Carr has the drill size for each size rivet-nut.


Here is all 5 screws holes drilled out.


This is the rivet-nut tool.


Installation of the rivet-nut.


The rivet-nuts installed.


Close up


The previous owner didn't exactly take their time putting the door panels back on. It's always a good idea to have extra door panel retainers on hand when you are taking the door panels off.


The finished product. The screws are now secure and will not strip out.


Aside from the cost of the rivet-nut tool (~$50) this upgrade was pretty cheap and solves a pretty annoying problem for me.

Harbor Freight has the things for a pittance in both steel and Al.
And the nut and bolt places have all sizes that are installed with the bolt so no rivit tool is needed. Not where I llive so I have to use the internet. Disadvantage they give up on thin metal. My Bronco has plenty of the bolt in place style. Perfect for blind holes.
I use both kinds a lot on my projects and prefer the bolt style. My most common size is 8x32 steel, but I have used some 5/16 and 3/8 ones as well. I see quite a few on late model cars & trucks.
Not structural unless one uses a whole bunch.
PaulW

That thing Whatdyisit posted is the Marson Thread Setter. I've had one for 10 years or so. It's how I set up the screws for the door panels when doing aluminum ones like this on my alfa. I've used both 8-32 and 1/4-20 and they work well.