Lower Coil Retainer Nut

[94EddieBauer]

I am having a hard time keeping my lower coil retainer nut tight on both sides. I will tighten them with a 1 1/8 wrench really tight, and then two or three months later they will be loose again, creating a clunking noise when turning in reverse and what not.

What are some tricks that I can do to keep these puppies tight??
Also getting a 1 1/8 big wrench in there is pretty awkward, how do yall manage to get a good bite on it?

Thanks,
Patrick

[convoy]

I've always used a 1/2" drive socket with a extension shaft. A wrench will always slip off due to the bottom coil spring getting in the way.

[SteveG]

I've never had a problem with them. Jack the truck up a bit if you can't get a wrench in there with the truck on the ground. I can usually do it by just turning the wheels out of the way.

You need to make sure you are tightening the nut against the seat and not against the spring. The coil shouldnot be clamped down by the lower retainer. If it is, add a washer to space the retainer up. If it is clamped down in an off-road application, the lower round of the coil will eventually work-harden and break. And yeah, it's noisy. Noise is part of the package.

[philofab]

The clunking is normally the bolt/stud not being tight enough to keep the radius arm to the beam. I have to use a lot of torque and lock tite.

The upper nut is supposed to be a all metal lock nut aka stover. If it's been on and off a lot it's worn and needing to be replaced.

[94EddieBauer]

Thanks for the Help, I will look into it when I have it up on jacks doing a tire rotation here soon.

I think I will try and get a impact socket on it and see how tight I can get her.

Thanks

[SteveG]

The clunking is normally the bolt/stud not being tight enough to keep the radius arm to the beam. I have to use a lot of torque and lock tite.

The upper nut is supposed to be a all metal lock nut aka stover. If it's been on and off a lot it's worn and needing to be replaced.

The continual loosening at the beam/arm intersection is usually a product of the beam/arm assembly trying to pivot on the bolts. This is where a third mounting point really helps.

I've always reused the lock nuts on my stuff without problems. But, I've always had a radius arms with the third mounting points.

[94EddieBauer]

The clunking is normally the bolt/stud not being tight enough to keep the radius arm to the beam. I have to use a lot of torque and lock tite.

The upper nut is supposed to be a all metal lock nut aka stover. If it's been on and off a lot it's worn and needing to be replaced.

The continual loosening at the beam/arm intersection is usually a product of the beam/arm assembly trying to pivot on the bolts. This is where a third mounting point really helps.

I've always reused the lock nuts on my stuff without problems. But, I've always had a radius arms with the third mounting points.

What exactly do you mean by a 3rd mounting point? I have the extended radius arms btw. (BDS)

Sorry if its a dumb question I just dont understand what your fully refering to.

[SteveG]

Here's a pic of the third mounting point on my Autofab radius arms. It makes for a super-strong intersection and, in my opinion, eliminates the need for welding the housing to the radius arm.

[AussieRod]

It's these kinds of small details that make Autofab's stuff worth the extra money

[94EddieBauer]

Here's a pic of the third mounting point on my Autofab radius arms. It makes for a super-strong intersection and, in my opinion, eliminates the need for welding the housing to the radius arm.

Ok cool, I understand what your saying now.

I have the BDS setup. I know its not that great of a picture...


The bolts havent been on and off constantly. It does have 174xxx on it now so most likely they have never been replaced. I did the lift myself so I doubt the previous owner did any suspension work on it.

The lower plastic coil retainer has been replaced when I did the lift. Besides constantly tighenting these bolts im guessing that my best option is to completely replace both bolts with new ones? Or do I need to weld the RA to the housing?

[94EddieBauer]

Bump.

[philofab]

I would avoid welding the radius arm to the beam.

Replacing the bolts *might* help.

[SteveG]

I would avoid welding the radius arm to the beam.

Same here. I'd be surprised if the bolts were worn but I suppose it's possible. Rather than weld on the beam, add a third mounting point like what I pictured above. It would be the same or less work than welding the beams and arms together.

Are you using Locktite?

[94EddieBauer]

I havent had the time to mess with them yet. Next time I will use lock-tite and see if that helps.