GoFastBroncos.com

Has anybody just drilled to 5/8 and ran a 5/8 tapered lug? Seems the easiest solution but not sure if enough taper will be left for the lug nut to seat.

shockseals.com wrote:Has anybody just drilled to 5/8 and ran a 5/8 tapered lug? Seems the easiest solution but not sure if enough taper will be left for the lug nut to seat.

I did it years ago without problems. If your concerned about it you can machine more taper in quite easily. Make sure you use the correct angled bit for the lug nuts you are using. I think 60 and 90 are common.

I've seen Alcoa wheels with 5/8's studs and no tapered nut. dont know how well it work's... i'm pretty sure these are 5/8's

A flanged nut can be used too, but I think Kritter is interested in a tapered nut.

philofab wrote:A flanged nut can be used too, but I think Kritter is interested in a tapered nut.

correct.

Isn't this what the Mossy nuts are for? I know a few of you here have talked about them in the past....

My studs came with double sided taper lug nuts...simple enough. There will be a slight amount of taper left in the wheel after drilling.

the stock alcoas are almost 5/8 anyways. i go a 64th over 5/8 and they work great

shockseals.com wrote:My studs came with double sided taper lug nuts...simple enough. There will be a slight amount of taper left in the wheel after drilling.

Which studs did you get?

Silverslk wrote:

shockseals.com wrote:My studs came with double sided taper lug nuts...simple enough. There will be a slight amount of taper left in the wheel after drilling.

Which studs did you get?

Speedway

Just remeber that the rims are lug centric and not hub centric. Need to get that taper just right.

shockseals.com wrote:My studs came with double sided taper lug nuts...

You sure those are 60*. A lot of the double sided ones are roundy round stuff and 45* taper.

BDKW1 wrote:

shockseals.com wrote:My studs came with double sided taper lug nuts...

You sure those are 60*. A lot of the double sided ones are roundy round stuff and 45* taper.

The stock taper is 60* all of the common 5/8 lugs from race sources are 45*. I bought a taper reamer for mine and re-cut the taper.

Available here for $12.60 http://www.amazon.com/SHANK-DEGREE-FLUT ... B002J74Z9Y

Many of us remember this discussion from before. All the required info is at
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/sho ... t=lug+nuts
Read the discussion and ask questions.

The pros steered me 41/64" holes in stock Alcoas and flanged nuts
Aftermarket wheels require flycutting for the flange to seat.

Tapered nuts are custom made from what I have read, and yes making the hole bigger reduces the taper seat and over tightening will distort the wheel taper.

With the tight 41/64" hole one almost gets lug centric. With the trucks I know of done with tight hole and flange nuts (many) nobody complains about vibration or other issues.

PaulW

PaulW wrote:Tapered nuts are custom made from what I have read, and yes making the hole bigger reduces the taper seat and over tightening will distort the wheel taper.

When upping the stud size, the taper should always be cut larger to match. Cast wheels have a real problem blowing out the tapers on heavy, abused vehicles. Alcoas are forged and will hold up better.

Are you guys enlarging the tapers by hand or indicating center for each hole on a mill? I plan to use first gen lighting 17x8 wheels (cast aluminum) with the 5/8 studs so it seems like this is something I'll be doing in the future.

I countersink them on the mill, just let them float and self center.

10-4 Brian. Make the surface flat and use the washer nuts. For the stock Alcoas they are already flat so all that is needed is to drill the holes. For arftermarket wheels if they are not flat per Brian (BDKW1) said. Flycut or mill.
Experience confirms the method works fine. No need to mess with tapers and trick nuts.
PaulW

I have a piloted counterbore for the flat lug nuts. Also done free floating on the mill.........