GoFastBroncos.com

so after getting my motor on the stand to do head gaskets,water pump etc.... i pull water pump,and 4 of the bolts broke.
so i took timing cover off to drill them out and use my easy outs to pull what was left. ok heres the part that is ( in a sarcastic voice) the funniest f@#$in thing i ever did,...........i broke not 1 but 2 easy outs. now i have no torches to use heat so is there any way to get the damn things out they are in the bolts really good and my center punches have broke trying to break them out....what do i do???(besides pay some one to do it)

Tack weld the broken punch to it. I've done that before. It worked for me.

i would but they are IN the block.

You can put a little larger nut (maybe 7/16") over what is left in the block and fill the center of the nut with weld. Let it cool a little bit and the bolt and all should come out. The weld will not stick to the cast iron and won't burn it up too much if you don't get too crazy. The combination of heating, swelling and then shrinking usually loosens them up pretty well. Those bolts are notorious for rusting into place, use a lot of anti-seize when you put them back in.

thanks , i'll try that

just tried it, and the welds break out at the easy out. haha this sucks

eek......no idea..good luck

can you just drill it out?

i tried.

do you have a pic of it? I'd like to see it. I might be able to help. I've had trouble on a few older trucks I had.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/broken- ... 785-2.html

A small tip torch might be able to blow out the easy out or use a tap extractor after you heat the crap out of it a couple of times. You really need some heat. Can you borrow some torches or pimp up and buy some torches and tanks? Heat, heat, heat and different metals are your friends.

johncharlesb wrote:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/broken- ... 785-2.html

A small tip torch might be able to blow out the easy out or use a tap extractor after you heat the crap out of it a couple of times. You really need some heat. Can you borrow some torches or pimp up and buy some torches and tanks? Heat, heat, heat and different metals are your friends.

He has no torch access...

A note on easy-outs. If the broken bolt isn't turning then you need to stop cranking on the easy-out before it breaks. Drill it out to a larger size and keep doing this until it relieves the tension between the bolt and whatever it's threaded in. Yeah, I know, too little too late, but maybe it'll help someone else.

bajascott wrote:just tried it, and the welds break out at the easy out. haha this sucks

Instead of welding a nut to it, try welding a washer to the broken bolt then weld a nut to the washer.

shockseals.com wrote:He has no torch access...

He just might need to get access! Maybe you could rent one, Scott?

shockseals.com wrote:

johncharlesb wrote:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/broken- ... 785-2.html

A small tip torch might be able to blow out the easy out or use a tap extractor after you heat the crap out of it a couple of times. You really need some heat. Can you borrow some torches or pimp up and buy some torches and tanks? Heat, heat, heat and different metals are your friends.

He has no torch access...

Yeah, I saw that. It seems he really needs some. He could go with carbide/diamond drill bits maybe. After the easy out is gone a left handed drill bit and more heat could get the rest of the bolt out. Hopefully, the drill bit will catch and spin the bolt out.

I find that heat is really the best bet with rust siezed metal.

Working on a 40 year old Bronco. Discovered the PO had broken a 5/16" bolt flush and had also broken the ezout flush. Tried heat , Blaster, and the latest reverse turning gadgets from Sears. Nothing worked. I got mad and put a concrete bit in the drill (3/16") and gave it full power. Suddenly the darn thing fell out the back. The masonry bit was totally destroyed. My previous effort had pretty much screwed up the the 5/16" threads for most of theway thru the captive nut so I dirlled/tapped for a 3/8" bolt and called it good.

Bottom line is Ezouts suck. better to drill the thing from the start with the reverse bit. Then lots of blasrer.
On another ocassion, back in the day, I used my Dremmel to make a slot to just unscrew the broken bolt. Only works if the bolt was over torqued and no rust is present. The reverse drill bit would have worked even better.
Paul

If it is flush with the block try using a TIG to build it up with stainless filler and then a pair of vice grips to remove it. I've done this a lot over the years. It usually works on the first try but it has taken up to three times on some stubborn exhaust manifold bolts.

i did use my tig and burned out the easy out out of one of the bolts, but ran into drilling it out all the way to a half inch and still cant cut new threads.so i gave the thing BOTH middle fingers and found another running motor with WAY less miles and no fuel injection.
so F#$^ that piece of shat!!!
haha so im back to the origional plan of getting rid of ALL computer controlled componants on this.
thanks for all the advice and help on this .
this is why this website is so cool!!

Good to hear! Now get it running so we can see it in action! Oh wait..... Mine hasn't moved (other than the 25 feet of making sure the motor doesn't die when it goes into reverse / drive) since June.

June? That's nothin...

Hahaha we had that conversation. You've got me by a long shot. But your rigs are alot more extensive.