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https://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1110
Just happened to me about 6-months ago. The internals of the lock assembly fell apart inside and I couldn't turn the key, which kept the steering wheel locked. I went to ford and bought a new lock assy (I actually had the lock guy rekey it to my old keys). You have to pull the steering wheel to get to the lock cylinder release, but it's pretty easy. Good luck!rezrider wrote:Any suggestions as to why I can't get the key or steering wheel to turn? Never had any problems until now...I know to jiggle the key/wheel a little til it'll turn...done that still won't budge!
Thx REZ
Sorry...yea, it's on my 88 Bronco...thanks for the info, REZSalttoy wrote:If this is on a ford bronco or f-150 mid 80's to 96, it is probably the linkage. The actual ignition switch is in the dash and there is linkage between the key tumbler and the switch. This linkage gets worn out over time and evetually will quit working and lock up. You will have to pull the plastic column cover off and you should be able to see it from there.
Got the wheel off "without the use of a puller"...couple taps on the end of the column with a hammer did the trick. I think it's a way to sell more shit, kinda like filter cleaner for bikes. NOW, I've checked out the internal mumbo jumbo, can see the linkage rod, when i pull on it the mechanism inside moves back and forth but don't know where to go from there...what's the next move? OIf it means pulling the ignition, how do I do that? I see the stuff on the inside but no screws to loosen, etc. I'm stuck!!!BajaF250 wrote:Just happened to me about 6-months ago. The internals of the lock assembly fell apart inside and I couldn't turn the key, which kept the steering wheel locked. I went to ford and bought a new lock assy (I actually had the lock guy rekey it to my old keys). You have to pull the steering wheel to get to the lock cylinder release, but it's pretty easy. Good luck!rezrider wrote:Any suggestions as to why I can't get the key or steering wheel to turn? Never had any problems until now...I know to jiggle the key/wheel a little til it'll turn...done that still won't budge!
Thx REZ
I can pull on the actuation rod and make the key cylinder move back and forth/in and out...I can see two surfaces of the cylinder from inside the steering column...one is rectangle shaped, the other (below it) looks like a "pin" of sorts but when I pushed on it it didn't go in far enough to release the cylinder from the column...These are the only things visible on the cylinder...Is this it and do I need to push harder? If it's the actuator rod down on the column that'll be a PITA to deal with...any suggestions if this is the case???BajaF250 wrote:There are two main reasons the key won't turn in my experience. First is the lock cylinder (where the key goes) and the cam that redirects the key cylinder rotation to the ignition switch (behind the dash) actuation rod. The cams can wear out and jamb and the key cylinder can fall apart inside and won't turn. You may want to isolate either of these two potential problems first and then go from there.
I'm not sure where your key cylinder lock release is, but on my truck it's a small hole behind the steering wheel at the base of the key cylinder. If you have the same type retainer, just use and 1/8" drill and push the pin in while pulling the key cylinder out, it should just pop out. You can now see if it's the key cylinder or the cam at the junction behind the lock cylinder.
If yours is different, someone with an 87-91 Bronco might be able to help...
Sorry for taking so long to reply...put the Bronco on the back urner till last weekend. I got a Chilton's manaul, they said to dril itout which I did...I tried pushing the "pin" in but it wouldn't budge, I tried a punch still nothing...so I drilled. Got the cylinder out, able to move shift lever and push the actuator rod in an out...I feel the problem was in the cylinder.BajaF250 wrote:Rez, what's the status? Find the source of the binding?
Very simple but I recommend against it. Lock cylinders are cheap even if you have a locksmith rekey it.rezrider wrote:Sorry for taking so long to reply...put the Bronco on the back urner till last weekend. I got a Chilton's manaul, they said to dril itout which I did...I tried pushing the "pin" in but it wouldn't budge, I tried a punch still nothing...so I drilled. Got the cylinder out, able to move shift lever and push the actuator rod in an out...I feel the problem was in the cylinder.BajaF250 wrote:Rez, what's the status? Find the source of the binding?
I have a question...how simpled would it be to transform the starter to a toggle/push button?
How simple is replacing a cylinder? since I had to drill the old one out the hole where the pin was is bigger than before...is this going to be a problem? and how about when the new one goes in does the actuator rod automatically align, fall in place, work???philofab wrote:Very simple but I recommend against it. Lock cylinders are cheap even if you have a locksmith rekey it.rezrider wrote:Sorry for taking so long to reply...put the Bronco on the back urner till last weekend. I got a Chilton's manaul, they said to dril itout which I did...I tried pushing the "pin" in but it wouldn't budge, I tried a punch still nothing...so I drilled. Got the cylinder out, able to move shift lever and push the actuator rod in an out...I feel the problem was in the cylinder.BajaF250 wrote:Rez, what's the status? Find the source of the binding?
I have a question...how simpled would it be to transform the starter to a toggle/push button?
Starter is Red/Light Blue, Constant 12V+ is Yellow at ignition switch on column under dash. Connect them and the engine will turn over if the shifter is in neutral. This is separate from the accessory and ignition wires. You'll need power to the ignition to make it run.
OK...next questions...philofab wrote:The hole being bigger shouldn't keep it from working. The new cylinder will slide right in as long as everything is in the acc position.
The pin should be part of the lock cylinder. The actuator rod should be in the ACC position.rezrider wrote:OK...next questions...philofab wrote:The hole being bigger shouldn't keep it from working. The new cylinder will slide right in as long as everything is in the acc position.
Will I have to install a new "pin"? I figure I would to keep the cylinder in place...
What position should the actuator rod be in?
And as for the other response on the ground wire...I disconnected it but thanks for the heads up! Had I not read that part of the manual I'd have been in the same spot!
Thanks for everyone's input...got it back together (which is another subject)...cylinder went in without a hitch, everything works. NOW as for the "back together" part...I have leftover parts.....philofab wrote:The pin should be part of the lock cylinder. The actuator rod should be in the ACC position.rezrider wrote:OK...next questions...philofab wrote:The hole being bigger shouldn't keep it from working. The new cylinder will slide right in as long as everything is in the acc position.
Will I have to install a new "pin"? I figure I would to keep the cylinder in place...
What position should the actuator rod be in?
And as for the other response on the ground wire...I disconnected it but thanks for the heads up! Had I not read that part of the manual I'd have been in the same spot!
I have 2 little (3/8-1/2") brass pins and 2 Tbolts. I removed the pins but can't remember where the hell they went, there weren't any holes to put them in...My son in his attempt to help out the old man took out the t-bolts and he too can't remember where they went. He seems to think they wre part fo the steering column housing.