Best Disk Conversion for the 9"?

[ChaseTruck754]

both are made in china now - so is there a difference anymore??

[hobbyturnedobsession]

hahahah I doubt it. Actually I've had harbor freight rachets for the past 5 years and they still work.

[Smart Alex]

Precision thickness of the material.

I see.

So surface ground alum would work as well correct?

[Dust]

Try Starrett Low Carbon Flat Ground Stock. Sorry I had to, it's the Machinist in me .

[philofab]

Precision thickness of the material.

I see.

So surface ground alum would work as well correct?

Only use aluminum on like material calipers and steel the same way.

The different material expand at quite a different rate, which will cause you problems when they get hot.

[PaulW]

If you're going into "weird" stuff like that - I was going to use the tacoma 4 piston calipers on all 4 corners of my ranger. The Tacoma rotors are narrow and because I'm not a fan of turning down a bunch of the rotor I was going to take a piece of .250" thick tool steel and use it as a spacer to widen the caliper. When the calipers come apart there are o-rings in them that seal the 2 pieces so the fluid can flow across them. Machine the tool steel for o-rings and wha-la - wider calipers. No need to waste a bunch of use out of the rotors and about the same amount of machine time...

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This concept is all about jumping into the real world of design engineering on a part the needs to be safe. A stress analysis of the bolts is required since they will be longer and may even be the wrong diameter. Then it comes to the spacer material. Ideally the caliper spacer should be the same stuff as the caliper. What is going on is the heat properties must be the same as the caliper and any disimilar metal would be unacceptable.
I see this kind of DIY junk on rock crawlers all the time and sure enough they fail and nobody gets hurt at the super low speeds. My engineering buddies just look and shake our heads.

If you insist in a DIY project go find a junk yard caliper that fits and does not need modifications. Find what works in the junk yard fit it up, then throw the calipers away and buy identical new OEM ones.
There is a good reason why the vendor kits are the way to go. They all use new OEM calipers and the only thing not stock is a re-sized bracket to hang the caliper and the oversized attachment bolts.
PaulW

[ChaseTruck754]

Funny - my engineer buddy came up with the idea when he & I were looking at the thing and discussing. When I ran it by my engineer brothers (2 of my 3 brothers & my dad are engineers) they weren't concerned either. I understand what you are saying but I think you are over reacting as well as underestimating my competence.
Obviously similar compound (alloy) materials would be used and proper diameter bolts as well.

I'm all about pushing the envelope and the use of stock type parts that can be easily replaced in Baja. I like seeing if I can do it better for cheaper. If everyone had $15k (over exaggerating a bit obviously) to spend on Baer brakes for these toys they would... I don't and won't.

[Smart Alex]

I know that some pro-am, some wilwood calipers ive seen have "adjustable pucks" to select rotor thickness. like Chasetruck's mod.

Edited by admin to remove tangent. The rest of the post can be found here: http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... =15&t=2343

[bajascott]

i have used this one a few times before( the first in the add) it is reletivly cheap they have a lot of good prices on other rearend stuff as well
http://www.quickperformance.com/Products/brakes.htm

[Dust]

Probably the most interesting thing is that people are still drilling rotors.

[Smart Alex]

Probably the most interesting thing is that people are still drilling rotors.

Lol

[PaulW]

Probably the most interesting thing is that people are still drilling rotors.

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Are you suggesting the release of gasses form hot pads is bad? Or are you suggesting that some so called expert said it makes no difference - drilled & slotted or not?
Kinda curious since we see the D&S rotors on some pretty high end super cars.
Just curious
PaulW

[ChaseTruck754]

I think he's saying slotting is one thin - drilling is yet another. If I remember right I seem to think I have read that "normal" cars/driving (think us in our off road toys & street trucks) don't get pads hot enough to offgas.

[philofab]

Pad material plays a big part of gas creation. Some pads don't need slotting or drilling.

Proper scoops and vents will make a bigger difference in rotor temp. Wheel design also plays a part.

[Dust]

Probably the most interesting thing is that people are still drilling rotors.

========
Are you suggesting the release of gasses form hot pads is bad? Or are you suggesting that some so called expert said it makes no difference - drilled & slotted or not?
Kinda curious since we see the D&S rotors on some pretty high end super cars.
Just curious
PaulW

No, I am fully aware of outgassing the pads, even after proper bedding, at speeds that make a TT look like a Radio Flyer.

[yogib]

Hey Philo were or are you running a residual valve with the explorer rear discs.And if so Which poundage? I dont have 1 on mine and thinking I need 1.

[philofab]

Hey Philo were or are you running a residual valve with the explorer rear discs.And if so Which poundage? I dont have 1 on mine and thinking I need 1.

I have one setup with a 2lb residual on a hot rod due to how low the MC is. A 2lb in not required on every install... it depends on where the MC and calipers are.

The rest have disc brake specific prop/combo valves. The drum valves have a 10lb built in to compensate for the return spring, and should not be used with rear discs. It will keep them applied a little bit and warp your rotors + hurt your mileage.