Beadlock Talk

[Wrightracing.net]

I was surprised not to see a thread about all the different beadlock options. So here is one now!!!

First, some will argue they will never need them and they are to much of a pain to maintain or are dangerous.

I also understand that, not all beadlocks are alike.

There is the debate on military beadlocks and the split rims. One thing I just noticed with the recentered military rims, they are greatly improved over the original design by moving the wheel mounting surface to the inner rim instead of the wheel mounting surface and the beadlock ring supporting the weight of the whole vehicle. Once recentered, the beadlock ring only holds the bead and the main body of the rim is mounted to the vehicle. Of course with recentered wheels, we get the back spacing corrected.

In my case, I just got my own first set of beadlocks for my F350. I probably went over kill on the 24 bolt military beadlocks and could have saved a little money with a 12 bolt version. My thinking was, these are the newest and strogest version the military is using now and the cost was not that much more. I did get them converted to 8x170mm and recentered with a 3.5" backspacing to fit my F350. In the case of the F350, the fact that the rims are heavier than non military beadlocks is not a big issue with a solid axle.

My motivation to make the change to military beadlocks was for several reasons. First, Discount tire would not mount big tires on OEM 16x7 rims anymore, which they have been doing on my truck for 13 year's without one problem. Next ORW quoted $1400 for 4, 315x75x16, BFG AT's, mount and balanced. After looking around, I was able to get a deal for 5 rims and 5, new BFG Baja TA 37"x12.50"x16.5 for $1800.

Yes it would have been cheaper to get some non beadlock rims but the 16.5 rims have a narrow bead and tend to pop off the bead at low tire pressure.

Thus my last motivating factor was to be able to get 37's at such a great price. $175 per tire with 99% tread versus $350-$400 per tire. And as low as $100 a tire, if I went with 80% tread left on the tires.

Now the next question is, double beadlock versus a singles outer beadlock?

So be nice, no name calling, this is not DR, agree to disagree and support your argument.

Keep it pithy!

[cs_drums]

I am planning on running the Staun internal beadlocks. Seems like a cool option that doesn't add a lot of weight, can transfer to new wheels if I want, locks both beads and acts a a bump stop to protect the rim I a big hit. At around $800 four 4 they aren't much cheaper than getting my wheels converted but I like the look of non beadlock wheeld

[Wrightracing.net]

I have seen those. I have heard of them leaking and no longer holding the Bead. Just something to keep in mind.

[robertcrav]

I've not owned beadlocks (yet --- who knows what the future holds) but I have heard arguments both ways with regards to typical rim beadlocks and internal beadlocks leaking vs. not leaking...

I love the look of them, and the functionality, but the weight and the impractical need for a daily driver just can't commit to them. also there is the issue of trapping debris in the rim 'valley' of a typical rim beadlock although I have seen in an article somewhere someone that made little ...ramps to help eject water/mud/debris from that area...I'll try and find a picture

[robertcrav]

found it ...

"Dry It Out
Kevin Hawkins designed this nifty blade that forces water out of beadlock wheels. It's simple and it works. You can make them too, attaching them to your beadlocks with a thin bead of silicone.

From: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1003- ... z3doXeQ3H2
Follow us: @fwmag on Twitter | fourwheelermag on Facebook"

[Wrightracing.net]

found it ...

"Dry It Out
Kevin Hawkins designed this nifty blade that forces water out of beadlock wheels. It's simple and it works. You can make them too, attaching them to your beadlocks with a thin bead of silicone.

From: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1003- ... z3doXeQ3H2
Follow us: @fwmag on Twitter | fourwheelermag on Facebook"

Interesting, I wonder how much they throw the wheel out of balance. Still an innovative solution.

On the Bronco, I would like to find some 16.5x8, 5 on 5.5 lightweight aluminum rims with outer or like the hummer but lighter.

[cs_drums]

I have seen those. I have heard of them leaking and no longer holding the Bead. Just something to keep in mind.

I hear that but I figure it should be treated like any beadlocks and checked regularly especially pre-off-road adventure. Checking 4 valve stems vs over 100 ring bolts sounds good to me haha

We will see. I don't have the $$ for either right now.

[robertcrav]

I think you may have a tough time finding anything newer in 16.5 ... seems like most manufacturers are going with 17"

Like the hutchinson or B.A.D. ...

The Hutchinson's only come in 17x8.5 I believe
http://www.rockmonsterwheels.com
Hutchinson P/N WA-0566
Size 17 x 8.5"
Bolt pattern 5H - 5.5" BCD
Lug style 60 degrees conical
Hub bore diameter 4.218" (107.1 mm)
SAE rated load 2,300 lbs. - 60 psi
backspacing 4.63" (117.6 mm)
construction Cast aluminum alloy

Each wheel assembly includes:
Assembly studs and locking nuts
O-ring seal

http://www.rockmonsterwheels.com/produc ... uct=jeepcj


The B.A.D. Wheels are 17" only too...

http://www.badwheelsinc.com/Products_Wheels.htm

Size: 17 x10 (in)
Weight: 38 (lbs) bare (no hardware)
45.5 with hardware
50.5 with hardware and 1/2-thick sacrificial rock ring
Backspace: 3.5 (in)
Available Lug Patterns: 5 on 4.5, 5 on 5, 5 on 5.5, 6 on 5.5, 6 on 6.5, 8 on 6.5, 8 on 170
Approved Tire Size: 42 (in)
Weight Capacity: 3,000 (lbs) 5 & 6 lug, 3,500 (lbs) 8 lug

[cs_drums]

The weight on those seems absurd.

[robertcrav]

The weight on those seems absurd.

Right.... ridiculous

[Wrightracing.net]

Not as bad as the Hummer rims!

I did find some, but I think they were $350 per rim. I can't remember who made them. There are some out there in the rock crawler community. I know I can get them custom made for $250 per rim.

[Pwerwagn]

I have walkers on my DD/prerunner/tow rig. They've been on it for over 100k miles, 4 sets of tires, zero issues. They don't leak at all. If I remember right they were 42-43 lbs each (17x8.5 8 on 6.5) when I weighed em. I really like them. I air down frequently, down to ~8-10 or so on my cummins and never an issue. I had one broken bolt once, probably over tightened. It's actually still broken haha...has been for a long time.

I also have a set of 24 bolt h1 wheels with BFG Bajas. They're cool but heavy (~60 lbs each).

[apache41]

How often do you check the beadlock bolt torque ?

[Rmc]

When installing they are torqued in 2 steps. 12lbs or so in cross cross pattern then cross cross pattern all to mfg spec in my case 20lbs. I actually did my trail readys and walkers in 3 steps, 12lbs, 18lbs then 20lbs. Inflate to tire spec then run them for a week or so and re-torque to 18lbs then 20 lbs. I had no leaks for over a year. The key is clean bead seats and beads. Then check them once or twice a year. Absolutely don't forget to use anti sieze on all the bead bolts. And if you break one or 2 bolts replace them all, it's normal for the bolts to get fatigued after multiple installations. If you decide to cheap out and just replace the one or 2 that break have fun trying to remove the rest after the fact. I had 3-10 bolts per wheel shear upon removal on a used set of wheels I bought once no fun!

[Wrightracing.net]

I still need to make sure, but the Humvee military beadlocks call for 65 to 75 ft/lbs for the bead nuts.

[arse_sidewards]

FWIW, my plan is skid steer 31s on H1 16.5s, but that's not for going fast in the desert

[Wrightracing.net]

I saw those when searching for 16.5 tires. Those is some serious tread on them and they must weight a ton.

[arse_sidewards]

I saw those when searching for 16.5 tires. Those is some serious tread on them and they must weight a ton.

There's a whole range of tread patterns so they're not all the typical V-tread tractor tires I think you're thinking of. The are really heavy and that's before I put the rubber insert in them. They're rated to >4000lbs and can be found new, shipped to your door for $120-$150ea. Try poking a hole in one

They seem like a great deal for someone who can use them but have a ton of downsides (stiff, non-DOT, only smallish sizes, heavy, not great at sand or rocks, bad on pavement, balancing problems).

I've actually got a set of 16.5s in 5x5.5 I could use but they hit my calipers and would require a lot of grinding or a 1/2" spacer. I'm having trouble deciding if I'd be better off going 8-lug (and dually hubs/spacers) and using stock H1s or buying reentered H1s in 5x5.5 For the $600 difference between stock and re-centered H1s I could definitely do an 8-lug swap, but I want to stay 5-lug.

[robertcrav]

I don't see any benefits to those tires

[arse_sidewards]

I don't see any benefits to those tires

They're cheap, fit on a cheap beadlocked rim, tough as nails, good for the kind of terrain I see (a little bit of everything all at once, plenty of things that will poke holes in tires) and come in sizes from ~29" to ~34"

I often drive in the native environment of a skid steer or small tractor. When in Rome, do as the Romans. I wouldn't specifically select them for go-fast in the desert if that was my primary purpose for the set of tires.

Sorry about the thread hijack.