Does the front axle spin freely drooped out like that? Would expect yokes to bind up and snap if spinning while dropped like that.
We clearanced the heck out of ours and still could not get that much angle out of them.
Now we run an RCV CV joint in the crossover joint.

So the wishbone that broke (the upper 3 link) was fabricated with a bushing at the front and double wrapped in two concentric tubes. Originally we conceived of this project as having 300hp, 35" tires, and 2.5" Bilstein shocks. Now it has almost 600hp, 37" tires, 4" 5-tube Fox shocks etc. We have had...

Been a while since last update. So besides getting our asses kicked around baja by the Moss Bros, we have been upgrading and rebuilding our class 3. We last ran it in the 50th Baja 1000 in Nov 2017. Prior to that race we did a full teardown, mag checked and rebuilt everything. Last minute we dropped...

It probably does not make much difference either way. If you have more travel than stock with the Y-arm tie rod design then you are going to get a lot of bump steer as you droop out much beyond what the OEM shock config allowed for. I'd be inclined to run a stock pitman with a 2.5" lift, a little le...

with stock pivot brackets (as you would with cut and turned beams) use a stock pitman arm.
with drop pivot brackets (as you would with a typical lift kit) us a drop pitman arm.

Yes, the rest of the system remains as OE replacements.

sold

BTW the car has a Fuel Safe fuel cell and runs on pump gas.

Baja Shop 4-Seater, $35k. Shortstar quad cam EFI V6 by Turn Key (300hp) and Mendeola MD4-2D. ProAm hubs, CNC brakes, Coilovers and Bypasses each corner (Rear bypasses Fox, all others King). Five 35" BFG Projects on ProAm forged wheels. Details include double shear uniballs on front a-arms, triangual...

I don't know how long they are but if you draw an imaginary line through the front of the lower link pivots (side to side), then the u-joint on the back of the transfer case is exactly on that line. we had to angle the drivetrain down to get there. the the front of the upper links are 5" up and 5" b...

PaulW wrote:Practice and use a magnifying glass to examine for cracks. Use oil for a lube when flaring.

Good idea, never tried oil lube. Might negate the need to soften with heat to avoid cracking.

Both sets are now sold along with the adaptors. Shipping tomorrow!

I have two complete sets of fuel injectors. One set is 30#, the other set is 36#.
Once set only had tune time and the other set is unused.
Make offer.
Also have one set of EV1/EV6 adaptors free with injector purchase if you need them, turns out I did not need them.

One trick for flaring stainless (with cheap tools) is to heat the end with a torch until you get a dull red before flaring. Reduces the likelihood of the flare tool splitting the tubing on hard tubing like stainless. Did the whole brake system on our race bronco this way and have not had any issues ...

96 (obd-II) can be expensive to keep smog legal with oem-only dual cats for example. i'd avoid obd-II for that reason. btw, it's not black and white about what years had what equipment, ford did running changes so for example you might find the same year bronco, both with 5.8 but with different tran...

Nice looking bronco, and at a fraction of the cost to reproduce it. Great deal for someone!

Top tip, pull the cap bolts from it and put them back together with red locktite and a torque wrench. We had one come lose in the race bronco.
The ones in the fronts of Ole Yellar and my dads bronco have been working great for years and years.

Agree, Trutrack works well up front. Ford agrees and starting putting one in the front of the Raptor in 2013.

pictures

Snap On roll away chest full of tools. Top deck is 21x50. Asking $1500 on craigs list but will do $1200 for GFB members. Too many tools to inventory but full sets of snap on wrenches, air tools, hundred pounds of sockets, pliers, vice grips, c-clamps, hammers, drill bits (large sizes too), hole saw ...