I'm guessing based on the wet ground and the lack of smog check concern that you're not in KA. ;) Some time ago I had a project Baja that got stalled by massive work over-time and then a friend talked me into selling it to him. The electrical plan was to use one of the Hella removable key type batte...

The 8" X 1.5" round blanks for the spacers cost me ~$65 each off ebay. As I posted above, can order literally everything needed off of Rock Auto except for the rear caliper banjo bolts (but it looks like the fronts will work), for about $500USD. Their shipping isn't the best in the States though. No...

Found that I could order an 8"x8"x 1/2" steel plate from amazon delivered for less than I can buy it locally. That's crazy! Anyway, it will become the jig for drilling the bolt holes in the (future) rotors to mount them to the rotor spacer. I need to make drawings for it and the mods to the rotors a...

ntsqd wrote: ↑

Sun May 15, 2022 9:57 pm

..... These holes were thru-drilled Ø39/64's and had a Ø1-3/16" X .50 deep counter-bore machined centered on them.

This would be edited if I could. The C-Bore depth should be .75" not .50"

Got the rotor spacers made except for the final reaming to size of the stud holes. Waiting on a 9/16" R8 collet. Normally I'd put the collet closer in the lathe and turn the shank down, in this case to .500. Two problems, the reamer's size etching is right where I'd be reducing the shank's OD and I ...

It sure is! This has the potential to work for a lot of guys. The rotor is large than the Exploder rotor, but according to Rock Auto the Expe rear caliper piston is 50.9mm and the Exploder's is 47.9mm. Assuming that I did the math right, that's a 11.4% increase in piston area. Going to guess an incr...

Expe RDB's looking like they'll work They register and bolt on! Bloody amazing that 2000 vintage SUV brakes exactly fit a ~1976 work truck housing! Needs a little detailing of the housing flange to bolt-on correctly, but that's easily done. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-XMC5cfb/0/26b3fe1d/L/i-...

After building up a rather extensive model in Solid Quirks I've convinced myself that the Exploder RDB's won't work. The p-brake drum is too small, which forces the shoe retraction springs into the wheel hub. There is no alternate position that fixes this. Anyone want to buy a new Exploder RDB kit? ...

No obvious clearancing there. I'll compare to my current beams that don't rub and adjust as needed. thanks!

I have to wonder if a big part of the reason why crawlers detest the TTB is because they bind and then fail that joint without ever knowing why it bound up.

That unmodified stub and slip really brought home the need to massage them for clearance.

I had just gotten enough education on them to understand the differences in the diffs and had thought to start looking for one on ebay when this one popped up. The bad news is that the Exploder backing plates really don't want to bolt up. They actually are close to aligning on the various piloting f...

Just got the beams. Occurs to me that some might read above as being 4" wider beams. They're not, they're just the normal camber comp for a ~4" lift. And scored a bolt-in stub axle type diff assembly! ARB here I come! In other news I've been able to get a functioning SolidWorks at home again. It is ...

The Exploder RDB project suffered a set-back in that the subscription use of SolidWorks that I had expired and was replaced with a sub-par piece of something generously called 'software.' I *think* that I've mostly solved the problem, but the models were all made in SW2020 and what I now have is SW2...

Dang, was hoping it was more like Klamath Falls. Hermiston is about as far north as you can go and still be in Oregon, and quite a ways East. Used to have to go up there from Central Oregon on occasion for farm equipment parts. If they're willing to part it out and ship the outer assemblies, the shi...

Where in Oregon?

Might ask the seller of the single 3/4t part if they have or can get two of them.

I'd ask specifically if those work with the 3/4t, ~12.5" OD rotors as they look like the 1/2t parts that I removed from the '91 Sub to put the 3/4t stuff on it.

Various info re: above. I use a 1979 K20 (3/4t, 4x4) Suburban as my reference vehicle because I owned one, took it to the B1K in '01 ("La Ballena Blanca"). I then used it's bits to convert my '91 Sub to 3/4t running gear when the Rust Monster had taken too much of the '79. Chevy caliper mounting pla...

I just recently talked to Dutchman about buying a whole axle set and they can't supply it. They don't make the RS stub and slip-yoke. Something about they couldn't make the part any stronger than stock due to some geometry constraints.

Anyone know a good source for these inner RS parts?

I could weigh all of my bits so that we could have some idea of what the shipping would cost if that would help any?