C-clip eliminater options and d50 slip shaft questions.

[Seabass]

Hey guys. I'm trying to do some research on front driveline stuff and want to make sure I don't get go slow tech mixxed with go fast tech. Sorry lots of questions.
-Are the go fast guys running the larger dana 50 slip shaft?
-Can you get the same/more angle out of the larger joint? Is the spring in the slip shaft doable with all the rapid cycling of suspension?
Or is there another prefered way?
-I know a spring clip can be made for the 44 shaft, can the same be done if some material is taken off the end of the 50 shaft? Or will that put the join in the wrong position?
-Are the go fast guys running traction aids or open? With gobs of travel does it even matter? Still may spin an unloaded tire I'm thinking.

Some have suggested just going easy on it in 4wd and I won't have issues. The 50 stuff is almost free at the yard and if that can give me a little more confidence when giving some one a tug on a strap I think it may be worth it. I'm new to the TTB thing so I'm open to the voice of experience. School me on front end go fast stuff.

[baja-chris]

-Are the go fast guys running the larger dana 50 slip shaft?
Some yes, some no. I'm building mine with the D50 slip yoke.
-Can you get the same/more angle out of the larger joint?
Same, but D50 has a stronger u-joint and bigger yoke to start with.
-Is the spring in the slip shaft doable with all the rapid cycling of suspension?
Yes, if you are talking about using a spring in place of a c-clip.
-Or is there another prefered way?
Preferred way is to use a 1980-82 bolt in stub axle instead of the c-clip axle.
-I know a spring clip can be made for the 44 shaft, can the same be done if some material is taken off the end of the 50 shaft? Or will that put the join in the wrong position?
Not sure what you are asking.
-Are the go fast guys running traction aids or open? With gobs of travel does it even matter? Still may spin an unloaded tire I'm thinking.
I run a Torsen front diff. Works fantastic in a go fast ttb. Tru-Trac is the common one. Can definitely tell a difference vs. an open diff if you are running to the limits of traction in go fast situations. YMMV.
-Some have suggested just going easy on it in 4wd and I won't have issues.
D44 parts are plenty strong. I'm using D50 because they are free and stronger so why not.
-The 50 stuff is almost free at the yard and if that can give me a little more confidence when giving some one a tug on a strap I think it may be worth it. I'm new to the TTB thing so I'm open to the voice of experience. School me on front end go fast stuff.

[Seabass]

The groove where the c clip or spring clip goes on a 50 shaft is just a hair different than the 44. There is more shaft after the groove on the 50 causing it to hit the diff's cross shaft before the groove clears the spider gear. The fix for this on the other site is a low tension spring in the slip yoke putting enough pressure on the stub shaft to stay seated on the diff's cross shaft.

I could see the stub shaft working its way out while pogoing over woops at 35.

What I was asking as far as maching: that extra shaft after the c clip groove, if you where to cut that material down until the groove clears would that put the u joint in a place that would cause vibrations?

I'll have to keep an eye out for the older style bolt style carriers.

[philofab]

My Bronco has always used the spring trick. I've never had a problem.

It was open then I put a spartan locker in. Soon it will be upgraded with Yukon parts.

[RyanDS650X]

I had nothing but issues with the spring and finally went to the bolt in style out of an 81. Using the spring left me without 4wheel in the dunes and a diff full of spline shavings from the slip shift coming in and out of the 3rd. Maybe pick Philo's brain about his technique, or hit the bone yard for a bolt in.

[philofab]

You have to tack weld the cap onto the slip yoke, and use the correct spring. Too much spring pressure or too little will both create problems. I wish I had paid more attention to what spring I used. I know a valve spring is WAY to stiff.

[Seabass]

Next time I'm at the yard I'll have to start looking for all this stuff.

Any one running the d50 diff as well? I'm under the impression parts are harder to come by, ie gears. Is the strength gained worth the unsprung weight? Any one know how much more they weigh? If I find the bolt on style I may just run the whole d50 set up seeing how odds are I may not find an 81-82 f250 and an 81-82 f150/bronco to quick.

It'll probably boil down to what I find first. I read some where that detroit actually made a "spring kit". I'll have to go back to googling up on it.

[philofab]

Next time I'm at the yard I'll have to start looking for all this stuff.

Any one running the d50 diff as well? I'm under the impression parts are harder to come by, ie gears. Is the strength gained worth the unsprung weight? Any one know how much more they weigh? If I find the bolt on style I may just run the whole d50 set up seeing how odds are I may not find an 81-82 f250 and an 81-82 f150/bronco to quick.

It'll probably boil down to what I find first. I read some where that detroit actually made a "spring kit". I'll have to go back to googling up on it.

I've never seen a D50 with a bolt on axle.

Weight wise I don't think there is a deference. Weak point will still be the 30 spline axles.

[RyanDS650X]

Next time I'm at the yard I'll have to start looking for all this stuff.

Any one running the d50 diff as well? I'm under the impression parts are harder to come by, ie gears. Is the strength gained worth the unsprung weight? Any one know how much more they weigh? If I find the bolt on style I may just run the whole d50 set up seeing how odds are I may not find an 81-82 f250 and an 81-82 f150/bronco to quick.

It'll probably boil down to what I find first. I read some where that detroit actually made a "spring kit". I'll have to go back to googling up on it.

I've never seen a D50 with a bolt on axle.

Weight wise I don't think there is a deference. Weak point will still be the 30 spline axles.

I had to use a D44 bolt on stub shaft and machine the D50 housing to accept it.

[DirtFiend602]

I know Joel had posted some pictures and more info but I cant find it. Im about to do this, and wanted to know if its worth sourcing a d50 slip shaft or just reusing the 44. I have no idea where to start to look for a spring, and lastly, should i leave the c clip in there in addition to the spring mod, and do I need to be clearancing any of these joints? .... Thanks - Ryan

[RyanDS650X]

Honestly i tried this route and it didnt work for me. Save yourself the hassel and find a bolt on D44 stub shaft.

[DirtFiend602]

This is all completely foreign to me... bolt on stub shaft?? Forgive the naivety.

[cs_drums]

This is all completely foreign to me... bolt on stub shaft?? Forgive the naivety.

I thought I knew everything about ttb dana 44 I am not farmiliar with this as well. Anyone have any pics?

[DirtFiend602]

Maybe he is talking about the 81-83 bolt on housing or something, I dont understand how you can bolt on a slip shaft... but while i have everything apart , id REALLY like to mitigate any potential problems that will leave me stranded.

[DirtFiend602]

found the external spring fix.

http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... =14&t=2238

[Bondobob]

Here is the 1982 D44 center with the 3 Bolt configuration

[DirtFiend602]

Thank you!!!!!!!! I dont think a 3 bolt third member will cost much at drive 4x4 here ( bronco graveyard), will probably just go with that and call it good!

[RyanDS650X]

Next time I'm at the yard I'll have to start looking for all this stuff.

Any one running the d50 diff as well? I'm under the impression parts are harder to come by, ie gears. Is the strength gained worth the unsprung weight? Any one know how much more they weigh? If I find the bolt on style I may just run the whole d50 set up seeing how odds are I may not find an 81-82 f250 and an 81-82 f150/bronco to quick.

It'll probably boil down to what I find first. I read some where that detroit actually made a "spring kit". I'll have to go back to googling up on it.

I've never seen a D50 with a bolt on axle.

Weight wise I don't think there is a deference. Weak point will still be the 30 spline axles.

[PaulW]

Hey guys. I'm trying to do some research on front driveline stuff and want to make sure I don't get go slow tech mixxed with go fast tech. Sorry lots of questions.

Some have suggested just going easy on it in 4wd and I won't have issues. The 50 stuff is almost free at the yard and if that can give me a little more confidence when giving some one a tug on a strap I think it may be worth it. I'm new to the TTB thing so I'm open to the voice of experience. School me on front end go fast stuff.

==
Chris answered all your questions.
I would say the TTB 44 is good enough. They are hard to brake unless you are a rock crawler. Go fast seldom needs low/low. Want the strongest setup then go buy a set of $RCV$ axles and just use a bolted D44. Jumping with a 44 or 50 wll probably be an issue even with the unbrakable axles.
The only issues with a bolted diff or TTB are wornout parts. Joint and bearings and seals do not last forever. Starting with the early bolted diff and not replacing the bearings will lead to worn out bearings and seals.
The spring thing is very common from what I have read, and yes there are guys that do it all wrong from neglecting to weld the cap to using the wrong spring. I measured the angle on the crossover joint 44 vs 50 and there was little difference. Biggest drawback for using a 50 is the 8 lugs. Get custom stubs and use 5x5.5 and it would be much better. I bet RCV has what you need for a 50.
PaulW