q80's or giant 64's

[fomoco51]

so I was going to start over with a cleaner bronco but think I might just invest the money into mine. so as of now I have threat 5.5 over beams, 2.5x14 coilovers up front. in the back I was running out of cash and opted for j40's and 2.5x18 smooth bodies through the bed. well needles to say the ass end can't keep up with the front in the ruff. both are strapped and bumped at 17". so now I'm debating on rear springs and shock setup. I'd like to stay under the bed with the shocks, since the bed cage takes up alot of room. I want to utilize this thing for most trails, from go fast to slow minor rock crawling (I live close to the Sierras). just not sure which rear set up would be best. afraid the 64's would get hung up on the rocks, yet perform better at speed then the q80'. but I'd save alot with the q80's and be able to do some other upgrades. for shocks I'd either go with Geoff's solid 3.25 bypasses for the Broncos or I can get a deal on radflo's. sorry for the lengthy right up, just trying to get people's opinions of where my money would be spent best.

[VintageIronFab]

I don't have 64's but I think for all around the Q80's have a great reputation or J40's for quite a lot less money.

[fomoco51]

I already have j40's.

[VintageIronFab]

You'd have to ask but I doubt the difference in those 2 springs are going to be small -- but I could be very wrong?!?!??

[dtbback]

I'd say go 64s and under the bed like Kel-Fab did.

[fomoco51]

yea he said he's pulling like 19" out of the rear with the 64's. Geoff aid he can get 20" with his shocks.

[cs_drums]

I don't think you'll see a big difference in the j40 vs q80. What are you using for a shackle? I love the 64s on my rig but unless you are gonna notch the frame your spending a lot of extra $$ for an inch or two more droop and less ground clearance. Are the shocks dialed in? A lot of guys have been running the j40/f53/q80 and been happy with it and most pull a little more than 17" travel.


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[VintageIronFab]

Yea my thoughts are if you notch the frame how much more travel do you get? The F53 can pull 19" --- IF you place the shackle in the right position. If not you get 17 1/2"-ish easily. Also changing the lower shock mount can free up some travel as well. It's all in how much you want to eek out every little bit of travel.

[fomoco51]

I have camburg shackles. shocks are not dialed in at all. in fact I'm over em and gonna get some bypasses. they work great when I'm loaded down and have 4 people inside, but with no adjustment they suck when I'm not loaded up. I don't mind notching the frame one bit. I would also like to get the shocks under the bed to free up some space in the bed.

[dtbback]

Notching and under the bed shocks won't work unless you cantilever the shock set up.

[fomoco51]

I can't see though how guys can pull 19" + out of the 64's without going through the bed. my shocks right now are mounted on top of the spring plate and slightly angled back, through the bed. I'm using most of a 18" shock to get 17" of travel, probably because they are now following the arc of the suspension travel.

[fomoco51]

hell if I cantilevered it, just short course link it. my fab skills and time really don't allow that though.

[hollandermotorsports]

I can't see though how guys can pull 19" + out of the 64's without going through the bed. my shocks right now are mounted on top of the spring plate and slightly angled back, through the bed. I'm using most of a 18" shock to get 17" of travel, probably because they are now following the arc of the suspension travel.

Think about this. Lay the shock over towards the front of the vehicle as the vehicle droops out the housing swings down and forward allowing the shock to use less shaft for its motion. As the vehicle bumps out the shock lays over backwards using less shaft per the motion. With that said you have to put some aggressive valving in the shocks for this set up and a 1:1 ratio is always best for wheel control if your package allows. A lot of people do not like cutting holes through their cab so valving is good enough and to the average Joe it will work awesome and they will be totally stoked with it.

[fomoco51]

im pretty close to a 1:1 ratio with my 18's. since they lean towards the back they follow the motion of the rear end. I've got about 1/2" of shaft at full bump and about 3/4" at full droop. I am thinking of maybe cutting into the inner bed side and going with a 16" bypass leaned forward. but I've got to see if 2 buckets will fit in between the mounts. hate to lose my Mastercraft bench but oh well. I've read though that the q80's are a bit more active and drop out quicker then the j40's. not sure if this is true or not.

[cs_drums]

I have camburg shackles. shocks are not dialed in at all. in fact I'm over em and gonna get some bypasses.

Bypasses valves incorrectly won't be any better. It sounds like you just need to dial your shocks in. If you want to go under the bed with them to get the space back that's fine but I'd talk to the dudes on here running the under the bed set up to get the valving close.

Redoing your whole rear because you're unhappy with the performance of your current untuned setup is a bit drastic and costly.

I'd just get some 12" bypasses valves correctly and run the j40s




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[Deslboy]

so here is my input. I have the 64" set up on my bronco. I am running a 2.5"x12" King 2 tube bypass under the bed. I went with the 2 tube because it was recommended by Kurt at DC shocks over a 3 tube. This is what he runs on his own bronco so I trust his judgement. I ordered my shocks with the shorter lower welded eyelet so the lower tabs wouldn't hang down so far on the axle tube. I chose not to do the frame notch at this time. I am running Solo shackles on the rear with their drop down hanger bracket and using stock factory rear hanger. My limiting factor as it is right now is at full droop the shackle is hitting the lower part of the hanger. I need to get Giants rear hangers as they are designed to allow more droop on the shackle. This being said, I still have a solid 1 inch of shock shaft available at full droop. I have a solid 18" useable travel and not into negative arch on the springpack at full compression. This is where the 64" pack really benefits. It rides amazing, even with NO weight in the back. In my opinion, its a no brainer to go with the spring under set up. Its only a few $100 more and the advantages are way better than the Q80 set up.

[dtbback]

Solid input right there!

[fomoco51]

that's exactly what I wanted to hear. my j40's go negative big time to achieve 17" and a negative spring is a unhappy spring. how much shock do you have left at full bump @deslboy? and would a frame notch even benefit you with your current setup? to me it sounds like you can get 19" without a frame notch.

[Andy Jones]

I like staring at my 64" kit just hanging there . It looks super sweet !


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[carlover]

I'm tossing around the idea of a 64 kit. Previous owner converted to spring under with some 60" springs, it isn't the optimal setup so the choices are custom springs from deaver to make it work or chop it all off and go with a 64 kit.