F150 4x4 swap opinions wanted

squirelmurphy · Post by **squirelmurphy** » Fri Aug 12, 2016 5:19 pm

So, I have a few ideas that I wanted to throw out in front of the GFB community and get some feedback.

I have a 93 F150 extra cab, short bed, 2wd. It has a 5.0/auto/3.08 drivetrain. Just turned 130k miles, very clean. I looked at a bunch of these trucks before buying this one, I could not find one nicer, and I got it for a song. I've been driving it for a while now, and I've really grown to like it. I've made a few upgrades, mostly taking junk off, fixing little things, alcoa's, etc. I put some 32x11.5 BFG's on it to hold me over, but I want more.

This truck is my driver, but I have another car to drive if the truck is down for upgrades. It is not meant to be an all out pre runner, I have my F100 for that. I want to build, for lack of better terms, a resto-mod. I want to make modifications for drivability, function, and appearance. I want 4wd so I can go to the cabin in Big Bear and play on some of the trails up there. No hard core wheeling, just cruising the fire roads with the family. No fiberglass, stock width, no shocks through the bed, 35" tire max. Basically, the goal is a Solo C&T kit and some Deavers with a nice mix of parts.

THE PLAN: Buy a Bronco to strip of it's TTB, motor?/trans, rear end and any other items needed. I don't think I can buy the parts separately for less than I can buy a dying Bronco for. Opinions welcome on this as well.

THE QUESTIONS: I'm going to need an E4od and TC, which years do I need to avoid any compatibility issues? Manual or electric transfer case? What would your drivetrain combo of choice be? Is it worth finding a later model truck and doing a MAF conversion?

Any ideas are appreciated!

squirelmurphy · Post by **squirelmurphy** » Fri Aug 12, 2016 5:26 pm

Here's a poser picture of the truck from a few months back. This also shows what I would like 4wd for.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AussieRod · Post by **AussieRod** » Sat Aug 13, 2016 4:53 am

Bolt-in swap. Find a complete hub-to-hub TTB front end, a transmission and manual shift transfer case from a Bronco (no slip joint) and front driveshaft. Grabbing the rear Bronco driveshaft would be an advantage for the cardan joint, the trim and boot for the t/case lever, etc. Easy peasy.

squirelmurphy · Post by **squirelmurphy** » Sat Aug 13, 2016 11:16 am

I think I can buy a complete bronco for less than what it would cost to piece everything together. I'm wondering if I'll be able to find the desirable parts, like the manual shift TC, all on the same truck.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Sat Aug 13, 2016 11:20 am

Manual xfer case would be best so you don't have to deal with all the extra wiring and shift computers. I think the f150s had a slip yoke on the end of the transfer case as opposed to a flange like the Broncos. If you want to use a double Cardon joint like the Broncos you will more than likely need to get the driveshaft lengthened which could cost a bit.

As far as the mass air, you don't really need it unless you are doing work on the motor (heads, cam, forced induction)

In my opinion, if you want 4x4 and you are changing the entire drive train I would just find an f150 like yours with all the stuff already done then sell the one you have. Once you get the truck apart it takes a lot of will power to completely finish it in a timely manor haha. Even better would be with a 5.8l

squirelmurphy · Post by **squirelmurphy** » Sat Aug 13, 2016 1:38 pm

Good info on the driveshaft differences, that was news to me. I'll look into that deeper.

The truck is going to stay, the only other option is to leave it 2wd and do a bent beam kit. Or, I swap in TTB parts. The labor is the the same either way. The truck would be drivable at this point. The transmission from the donor Bronco would be sent out and rebuilt. Whenever I'm ready, swap the transmission in. The Bronco front driveshaft should work, but will probably need to have a rear driveshaft made. Is there anything I'm leaving out? It doesn't seem too overwhelming, especially when done in stages.

I don't want to complicate things too much. I would love to stash the donor motor away for a future rebuild. Nothing wrong with mine now, but it would be nice to have another one waiting in the wings.

Post by **SteveG** » Sun Aug 14, 2016 8:58 pm

[quote="squirelmurphy"]I think I can buy a complete bronco for less than what it would cost to piece everything together.quote]
That's exactly what I would do. The good news is, most of the parts you need aren't generally worn out. Even on high-mileage trucks.

Also, you can buy the pivot brackets from Autofab... in case you don't feel like removing them from a donor truck. Click the banner ad above.

hollandermotorsports · Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:08 am

Tchajagos wrote:Manual xfer case would be best so you don't have to deal with all the extra wiring and shift computers. I think the f150s had a slip yoke on the end of the transfer case as opposed to a flange like the Broncos. If you want to use a double Cardon joint like the Broncos you will more than likely need to get the driveshaft lengthened which could cost a bit.

As far as the mass air, you don't really need it unless you are doing work on the motor (heads, cam, forced induction)

In my opinion, if you want 4x4 and you are changing the entire drive train I would just find an f150 like yours with all the stuff already done then sell the one you have. Once you get the truck apart it takes a lot of will power to completely finish it in a timely manor haha. Even better would be with a 5.8l

if you go from 2wd to 4wd drive to would get the rear drive shaft shortened not lengthened which is a lot cheaper to remove tubing vs re tube for longer.

I know where there is a motor and trans with tcase for fairly cheap with low miles.

cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:26 am

squirelmurphy wrote: I want to make modifications for drivability, function, and appearance. I want 4wd so I can go to the cabin in Big Bear and play on some of the trails up there. No hard core wheeling, just cruising the fire roads with the family.

Based on your intended use I'd say your time and money is better spent keeping it 2wd. Bent beams, 35s, gears and a locker will take you all sorts of places. I'd rather have 2wd with a locker vs open 4x4 in most situations.

Just my $.02

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Mon Aug 15, 2016 11:43 am

hollandermotorsports wrote:
if you go from 2wd to 4wd drive to would get the rear drive shaft shortened not lengthened which is a lot cheaper to remove tubing vs re tube for longer.

Unless you use a double Cardon jointed driveshaft out of a bronco since he was thinking of getting a donor bronco.

AussieRod · Post by **AussieRod** » Tue Aug 16, 2016 1:01 am

SteveG wrote:
squirelmurphy wrote:I think I can buy a complete bronco for less than what it would cost to piece everything together.quote]
That's exactly what I would do. The good news is, most of the parts you need aren't generally worn out. Even on high-mileage trucks.

Also, you can buy the pivot brackets from Autofab... in case you don't feel like removing them from a donor truck. Click the banner ad above.

2WD and 4WD use the same pivot brackets.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Aug 17, 2016 12:28 pm

Late to the party here Mike, but I'll throw my $0.02 just because.
I LOVE the truck (didn't know you had it!) and totally get the idea of wanting the 4wd out of it.

I'll agree with Brian in saying that you can have a lot of fun in a 2wd. Bent beams & shocks will do what you want and allow you to have some fun for less $/time involvement.

I'll also note that the 3 broncos I have bought last have cost me less than $1k for all 3! The $500 one and the $400 one both were driven to my shop to meet my cutting torch. That being said if you want to go 4wd deals are out there & you can probably make your $ back from the bronco purchase selling the parts you don't need. I'd aim for a truck of the same era (body style) for ease of swapping things over, and I'd agree with others on the manual tcase. Don't let holding out for a manual stop you from a good deal on one with an auto though as you can always buy that separately.

And yes, Rod is correct in that for the F-150's the 2wd and 4wd the beam pivot points were the same. Rangers were the lame duck here with different pivot points for 2wd vs. 4wd.

squirelmurphy · Post by **squirelmurphy** » Wed Aug 17, 2016 4:39 pm

The truck looks way better now with some of Tony's headlights in it! But anyway...

It seems that most of the Broncos I find for cheap have smoked transmissions in them. I figure I'll be rebuilding anyhow, so that's not a major concern. I will wait it out for a while to try and find a suitable donor. I was hoping to find one with 3.73 or 4.10 gearing so I could upgrade from the horrible 3.08 the truck has currently. I've run across several 3.55 open diff trucks, not a huge upgrade. If I can't find a manual T case truck with a suitable gear, I might be better off piecing it together. I'd rather buy a 4.10 equipped TTB setup and re-gear my existing rear end, as opposed to having 3.55's with 35's and being right back in the same boat I'm in now. I'm still figuring things out and I appreciate everyones input.

I know I could (should) leave it 2wd, but I already have a pre runner. I want 4wd for the times I go up to the mountains in the snow more than for going fast. And because I can't leave well enough alone.

That's the real reason.