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That was my point with the bending radius of the morse cables. You can't even loop them tight enough to make a married setup work many times.

I guess I am missing something. The Atlas case has the morse cables go straight to the opening in the OEM floor. They do have the short cable and there is no need to bend the cable, so that was my point. It could even be flush mounted into the access panel. Maybe I am not seeing something.

In my Bronco I am mounting it with my Art Car shifter and a hand brake in the Center Console, Something like this.

You do realize that this is an Early Bronco and not a Full Size?
The horizontal distance from the end of the Atlas rails (not any adapters, the rails themselves) to the current lever's pivot pin is about 8 inches. Between there and about 2 inches further forward is where the shift levers need to be, but I doubt that the NV4500's rear housing allow me to move the pin forward very far. I don't see a cable system working there without routing the cables in a 360° loop that spirals upwards. Which seems like a silly thing to do and not likely to move freely or allow for long cable life.

The above is what I was picturing/imagining as to the issue. Cables will NOT work. Well, morse type cables at least. Just the the ends of the cables back to back, with the threaded portion sticking out would eat that 8" - if not more. In fact... Break time - I'll go get pics.

Ok, so this is worse than I thought. Here's pics of the ends of my cable (36" overall = shortest morse cable I was able to find), and you will see that even with trying to loop them 360* that the things would not physically fit.
So yeah, not that we settled that, how are you mounting the shifters to the NV4500? Is there a boss/threaded hole in it, for a bolt to use to pivot off of? My NV4500 is a 2wd trans (again - divorced t-case) so I've got to figure out making some sort of bracket that will catch as many bolts on the case as possible. Gonna be a lot of figuring & then bending on the brake, and then probably doing over once I get it wrong once or twice. Not looking forward to that part of it.

The 4WD housing has three bosses that I drilled & tapped 3/8 UNC. One up high near the t/c mount flange, one about the same elevation next to the main case, and the third on the top-center rib. The one at the main case had to be shortened as it stuck out too far. Surprisingly a large counter-bore tool in a hand drill with the right pilot worked extremely well. I had visions of a broken wrist or something so I proceeded very carefully with that.

Found a pic of what I built for the D20 and had tried to adapt to work with the Atlas. Looks like my guess of 8 inches was long:





NOTE: I've since found the source of the porosity (leaking hose) and have discovered that getting old sucks, I now need readers under my weld helmet.

Got it, complete Brain Fart, My thinking was from a fullsize Bronco view, Not an Early Bronco. Sorry about that.

No worries, thought that might be the case.

Sooooooo........

After a long hiatus (Life) I'm back on this. T/C shifter really stalled me, and then other things/projects/life got in the way. It needs shift at least as smooth as a later model OEM shifter in all conditions, nothing less is acceptable. In looking at the NWF cable shifter page I see that they have a 4 foot cable length option. If the 'coiled in a loop' gambit has a prayer of working the longer cable will be needed. Figured since I was stalled on a linkage shifter that I'd order one and see if I could make it work. Just a note, whomever is doing NWF's powder coating uses good stuff. Had to upgrade my whole blast cabinet to get it off the lever bracket. Since the cables will not be coming thru the floor the whole bottom of the bracket needs to be enclosed. Not much to show yet, but I should have some pictured updates soon.

Is this thing on?

Waiting on pics.

We're listening... And waiting for pics

Well, dang. Just mocked up a cable on the shifter bracket & connected to a lever. No way to stop it from rattling just going down the road and the cable is not aligned correctly with the lever. It is 'bent' down thru the whole stroke and obviously at it's worst at mid-stroke. The pivot pin hole (for a shoulder bolt) is too large To fix it I need to start over & build the whole bracket from scratch. Not a big deal, just wish that I'd found this 3 months ago. I have a metals shopping list, just need to get it.

Note: I'm still not convinced that cables can be made to work, but I figured that I'd at least give it a try.
This is the bare, naked NWF cable shift lever bracket after some additional welding and machining to allow it to be enclosed:


I was preparing it to get boxed in when I mocked it up and found out about its multitude of problems. I'm probably too picky, but I don't want to have to do this again and rattles bug me. For a .375" shoulder bolt those holes are about .400" ID. They supply a nice prevailing torque nut for it, but there is nothing to key the bolt and stop it from rotating in those holes. Likewise there are no bushings in the levers. It is bare SS rotating directly on the carbon steel shoulder bolt.

Well, it was. McMaster to the rescue. I reamed the levers to .4375" and now they rotate on flanged nylatron bushings. The new housing will have a key welded in place that indexes a flat that I will soon machine onto the head of the shoulder bolt.

The Valiant http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 12&t=49591 went away last night. One less project!

I had hoped to have more pics by now, but I'm not quite there yet. Soon, I hope.

Always amazing how tolerances can do down to make "bolt in" easier for the general masses. 90% of the guys out there wouldn't have noticed or cared. It's funny what some guys pick up on (or even know) and others don't.

Watching to see how this turns out.

Temporarily giving up on the T/C shifter. Since the trip to Lodi doesn't require low range or 4WD (unless I'm doing it REALLY wrong) I've moved onto the steering column. Truck has a Toyota IFS Pickmeup truck PS box on it. The PO started doing this when EB PS boxes were rare & over a 1000 dollars in 90's dollars, and the 4X4X2 box hadn't yet been invented.

Yota splined U-J's don't really exist in the aftermarket. I found one U-J mfg who claimed to make them, but they seemed to not really know what they were talking about and appeared to be more interested in the sale than in it being right. Which is no big deal because it turns out that FJ60's use the same input shaft splines and I have a complete column out of one of those. The 60's intermediate shaft has a nice splined slip in it for dealing with body vs. frame flex, and the U-J's used put anything aftermarket to shame. Rumor is that they were originally an early 70's Corolla drive-shaft U-J and Toyota has new cross assemblies available. I've decided that the U-J at the bottom of the column will be Toyota too, and I'm being encouraged to include a rag joint to decouple any NVH. Packaging all of that is looking to be a challenge but I have all of the connections needed sorted out and I'm ~75% on how to support the support bearing that needs to be between the rag joint and the upper U-J.
Column donor is a GM from the late 80's to mid 90's with the dimmer function at the turn signal lever. I've removed the column shifter lever, IGN tumbler, and steering lock since the IGN switch is in the dash.

This won't be a distraction, it won't, it won't it won't........



It does have a few small issues, but it should be mostly a buy it & drive it. I've a trusted shop in mind to sort out those issues shortly.

ntsqd wrote:This won't be a distraction, it won't, it won't it won't........

Nice new toy. I think we've all said that before. I say it but can never hold to it...

Yeah, well, it is a major distraction. I think that I'm getting close. At least the list for it is getting shorter. It's own thread: https://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/vie ... =33&t=9789

Back to the VSS - I literally just had this issue where the VSS wouldn’t read after unplugged and plugged back in - turned out the plug was hogged out - a nice junk yard freebie was the fix.

Replacing literally everything except for the housing and one axle shaft fixed the Blanc-Oh!'s multiple rear axle problems. The shop said that the tone ring was full-floating. Probably dates back to whatever drama it was the creased the inspection cover.

In other news, last weekend I was given a bare hyd roller 351 block. Std. bore, no crack. Decisions, decisions......