GoFastBroncos.com

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/1208 ... el_engine/
http://www.fourwheeler.com/news/banks-4 ... n-package/
I read somewhere that GB price will be in the 20s
Means nothing however. Just like buying a motor package from Turnkey - meaning pricey. Then the guys say no way and go get a junk yard engine DIY install for 1/10 the TK price including the install.

But keep the cost in perspective. A hemi conversion for a TJ will run close to 20k if you hire it done and it will include a junk yard motor and tranny that cost around 2k. DIY will be less for sure.

Soon the 3.0 Jeep/Ram diesel will show up in the junk yards and the conversions will be pretty common.
Bottom line seems like a pretty good motor

PS besides they all come with a ZF 8 speed auto when you get one from a junk yard. That has to be a good thing.

If wiki is to be believed I was wrong, the 6.5td outputs 215/440 with the later PMD IP, looks like the non PMD IP's were 190HP. Can buy a reman complete for ~$5k. No idea if that vendor is any good

BTW, Where the heck is the "edit post" button on this forum?

ntsqd wrote:BTW, Where the heck is the "edit post" button on this forum?

It got taken away after a couple of tools got outta hand.

doh! mebbe we can have it back sometime soon?

Best pic that I have of the engine bay, no more MSD* stuff - I've changed it all to OE D-S II with an E-core coil:


Wish that it still had those progressive springs. I don't think that the shocks that replaced those RS9k's was any real improvement. I'm thinking Fox 2.0's with a 5/8" shaft or 2.5's. Lee @ Raceshock has a shim stack worked out for the 2.0's that works very well from watching Lars' & Todd's. There are struts that run from the firewall to the radiator support that is part of the frame. I've been pondering some sort of shock tower bracing that would combine the struts' function as well. Once a diesel goes in the radiator will need to be a lot larger than the AL OE sized replacement that it currently has.

Yes, that full length rubber fuel supply hose is being replaced. I'm using nylon tube plugged into Push-to-Connect fittings in bulkhead- feed-thrus mounted in tabs at each end. Specifically the "wash-down" variety of Push-to-Connects as they have Viton o-rings (thanks Lars!). From there AN adapters and Push-lock/Barb-tite hose ends and emissions barrier hose. Reportedly the barrier hose isn't happy with barbed fittings, but I have yet to find that page. In the mean time my '65 Valiant DD has been running this fuel system design for over a year.

Now has hydro-boost, so the booster bracket shown was replaced. Another unusual choice that works very well, note the steering box. It is a 2WD Toyota pick-up PS box as best as I can tell. Has what I think is a Sky Mfg arm on it and GM TRE's. Not shown is the steering input shaft that needs revision. Works well as-is and is surprisingly smooth considering, but just isn't right. Upper U-J has about a 18" of shaft btwn it and the column's lower bearing, which causes the UJ's to operate at excessive and unnecessary angles.

*I've a friend who refers to MSD as "Majorly Shiatty Device" and while I don't have that low of an opinion of their stuff I've seen enough of it fail or misbehave to not trust it. OE stuff has shown me to have a much better MTBF average.

What happened to the whole first page of this thread?

What's wrong with it? It looks OK to me.

I only see one page, starting with my posting of this:

Lots of chatter about that engine, but no substance. Being a GB product of that magnitude it's likely beyond what I can justify for this vehicle anyway.

PaulW's initial post to that post do not show for me.

Strange. They show for me. Anyone else having problems viewing the first post in this thread?

In the sub-forum listing it clearly shows two pages. Clicking on the thread title only shows the last 5 posts. Clicking on the first page link opens exactly the same way, the last 5 posts. This After clearing the browser's cache. Going to try a complete restart.

Didn't make any difference.

aha! the buttons at the bottom of the page were doing it. Set to "all posts" and presto! there they are. I did not knowingly change that.

On to more important things. Anyone ever run across supposedly compatible brake seals swelling or otherwise misbehaving with silicone brake fluid? Truck came to me with it and the front calipers have developed a problem. When I pulled the 37's off to put the 315R16 wheels/tires on I noticed that the rotors were light blue! Even after cracking the bleeders ( no spurt, just a smooth flow) I can not turn the rotors by hand. TZ had a set of rotors and I bought a set of Fleet Service pads, now it looks like I need a set of calipers too. The braided SST hose btwn the frame and the front axle had kinks at each crimped-on fitting and the axle to caliper hoses are still rubber, so I've ordered the bits to make up some hoses from Orme Bros.
Seems like now would be a good time to move away from the DOT 5 fluid, just curious if anyone else has had a similar experience with the stuff?

Very little experience with it over here but i sure don't see a good reason to use it in something that never came with it.

If the calipers are spendy, putting kits in them would be a lot cheaper.

We use Dot 4 in everything unless it came with dot 5.

GM D52's, about as common of a caliper as they get. Confirmed that these are the 7/16" threaded versions, so my old '79 4wd 3/4t Sub will be the "application" for the parts guy.

Copy that. Those things are so cheap it's laughable.

Dot 3 and 4 are compatible dot 5 is not to be mixed with the non synthetic brake fluids. I think it has something to do with different hydroscopic traits. Switching from one to the other means flushing out the system REALLY well.

The 6.5 is a really heavy engine isn't it? Have you looked into kubotas? There becoming popular now that the 4bts are starting to get scarce.

The NV 4500 & adapters that I bought off CB is now in the possession of a fellow member here. I'll be heading over to AZ to get it next month. Buyer of the 435 isn't in a huge rush to get it as they just sold their house and are buried in all that goes with that. Want to get moving on that though as an exhaust system that I can tolerate the sound level of (keep expecting to get a ticket with the current) is gated by the new trans being in place.

Waiting on braided SST hose stuff to wrap up the brakes. Well, that and the normal things life throws at you. I build the brake hoses from re-useable type ends so that I can field repair them if need be with the spares that go in the truck. I guess that making your own hoses is not the norm any more. Orme Bros had to order the hose ends as most of their demand is for ready-made hoses.

A friend gave me some empty calibration gas bottles. I'm thinking that with some mods I can use one of them to build a pressure bleeder that will hold about 3 qts of brake fluid. Will be good for initial system fills and the like. Should also aid in flushing out the DOT 5 with DOT 4. I've read that mixing them can cause a sludge to form, so I'll want to be sure to push a bunch of fluid thru the system to remove as much of the DOT 5 as possible. May test how well denatured alcohol acts as a solvent on DOT 5. If it works well I may flush first with that, and then with DOT 4.

To me the Achilles Heel of the 6.5td is it's weight. But again, what I'm really wanting is ~200 HP, ~400 Ft-lbs out of the box, no tuned/tweaked hand grenades. If it is a mechanical IP so much the better. Would really rather not mess with a complicated wiring loom.

Harbor freight has a really great vacuum brake bleeder setup that uses a Venturi with your air compressor to create vacuum. Works great and only $27. Way easier to do the. Try to build a pressure bleeder.... I was going to do same thing until I found it.

X2
The one I use is item 92924
Worked as advertised easy for use the first time. No do overs.

Silverslk wrote:Harbor freight has a really great vacuum brake bleeder setup that uses a Venturi with your air compressor to create vacuum. Works great and only $27. Way easier to do the. Try to build a pressure bleeder.... I was going to do same thing until I found it.