krustythebronco a series of facepalms lol

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Thu Jan 24, 2019 3:04 pm

Yup, moving them back slightly should be a good starting point. Play with both hanger location & shackle length if you have the time to cycle it over & over. This will net you the optimum setup and doesn't cost anything but time (which I used to have a ton of & now have to little of).

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Thu Jan 24, 2019 5:27 pm

ChaseTruck754 wrote:Yup, moving them back slightly should be a good starting point. Play with both hanger location & shackle length if you have the time to cycle it over & over. This will net you the optimum setup and doesn't cost anything but time (which I used to have a ton of & now have to little of).

currently i've got plenty of time, lol. I will definitely do what you suggested. I was thinking about moving the rear axle back a couple inches while I was at it, for a little more wheel base. Hafta see where the stock tank and that ruffstuff diff cover start getting friendly though.

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Thu Jan 24, 2019 5:38 pm

Any Pinterest guys out there? I started a board called Bronco Prerunner Motivation with links to a lot of the sweet build threads on here and other places. If any one is interested in seeing some other bronco builds check it out. https://www.pinterest.com/outdoorexplor ... otivation/

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Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Mon Jan 28, 2019 12:05 pm

i worked on getting the leafs apart today. I was kinda disappointed. I guess I assumed if I paid $1000 to get a brand new set of leafs from Deaver, that they would at least be painted. should be easy to fix, just mildly annoying. What you see in the pictures is just mill scale and rust.

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Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Sat Feb 02, 2019 9:03 pm

Started tearing the rear apart finally. The bumper wasn't too bad. Soaking bolts in pb blaster helped. The tailgate is toast, I have a replacement shell for that. I didn't realize the shackle on the drivers side had an actual rust hole in it. lol. Some day all the good stuff will end up on a rust free model.

The fuel tank should probably be replaced. pretty flakey. The ford connections on the fuel lines are being a pain in the neck. Just not wanting to separate. I thought I'd try taking the sending unit out. The lock ring isnt wanting to move. Tabs came off. So I walked away before i started cutting lines to see if I can salvage something. I've got a buddy in denver with a good fuel tank. So I'll probably just replace the whole assembly.

The factory skid won't be going back on. I plan on something a little stouter taking it's place. maybe a DOM frame with UHDP for a skid.

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biggiek · Post by **biggiek** » Sun Feb 03, 2019 12:55 pm

Desolate and solo make skid replacements...

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Mon Feb 04, 2019 2:14 pm

biggiek wrote:Desolate and solo make skid replacements...

I've seen those. Very nice pieces.

BDKW1 · Post by **BDKW1** » Mon Feb 04, 2019 5:20 pm

Looks like that thing has seen plenty of road salt.

Road salt is the Devil.

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Tue Feb 05, 2019 9:04 am

BDKW1 wrote:Looks like that thing has seen plenty of road salt.

Road salt is the Devil.

unfortunately it has.

someday ill get a south western bronco and slap all the good stuff on it.

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Tue Feb 05, 2019 9:27 pm

quick update

finally got the fuel line connections separated and the tank off. The receiver hitch came off with the help of the torch, same with the right hand shackle. Now its time to start cleaning up the frame and making templates.

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looks like the new shackle mounts can hang between 3 and 4 inches lower than the bronco ones. The Gm hanger is clamped 2 inches behind where the stock one normally sits.

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rough outline of shock mount on the frame.

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ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Feb 06, 2019 1:25 am

Moving right along!

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Sun Feb 10, 2019 8:42 am

it's been a busy weekend so far. got the drivers side rear suspension removed.

I pulled the front spring hangers for the rear springs off of Ole Red, a 1971 f100. Someday Ole Red will go on a different frame, and get a new drivetrain.

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Once I got everything removed, then I cut on the first shock plate and started grinding it to be close to the wooden template. After I got it close I drilled the mounting holes using the template and checked the fit.

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In this picture you can see the height difference between the stock bronco hanger, and the bronco hanger. It looks like the f100 hanger is going to be about an inch lower than stock.

The holes I have drilled in the shock mount plate are currently 7/16", I'm thinking about upping that too 1/2" and using grade 8 hardware.

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Sun Feb 10, 2019 8:44 am

sorry for the multiple pics of the same thing, i missed that before i published the post.

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Thu Mar 07, 2019 2:50 pm

time for an update.

got the detroit locker fixed, thanks to a friend with a mill. It had 4 broken bolts holding the two halves together. Tow of those 4 bolts were broken off below the surface. With a little work he was able to drill them out. After complete disassembly and lots of cleaning, I put it back together with locktite and a torqued down the 6 brand new bolts.

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Now that the detroit was back together, I reinstalled it with the same shims that came out and moved on to other stuff. like painting the Deavers with my son.

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Then i started working on getting the truck spring hangers the way I wanted them. I plated the outside, and reinforced the inside to provide a mounting surface for a rock slider to go under the cab rocker. Nice and clean like. I also added metal to both sides of the hanger bolt area to provide a little more support for the bolt. and hopefully keep that hole from egging.

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Next it was time to put the shackles together. I'm thinking about welding in a 2nd plate inside the shackle to box it, and provide a little more strength. still sitting on the fence on that one.

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Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Thu Mar 07, 2019 3:05 pm

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pardon the little berries.

still working on trying to tune that out.

More painting....

and then some installing/testing

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with the single leaf I am getting exactly 18 inches of travel from full droop where it hits the shackle, to where i can't jack it up any higher because i've run out of jack.

the pinion angle is a little concerning. it changes a lot in that travel.
-At full bump the pinion and the driveshaft look like this /\ by about 10*.
-At full droop the driveshaft is almost inline with the pinion, and the pinion and driveshaft look like this \/ at 5* (according to my angle finder). Also the cv is really closed to bottomed out, so i dont think i can rotate the pinion lower.

Does this ^^^^ sound about right to you guys? I can take better pictures if it helps.

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Thu Mar 07, 2019 5:40 pm

[attachment]20190307_164416.jpg,20190307_164700.jpg[attachment]

i think im going to tilt it down some. at mid travel (which should be close to ride height) the pinion is still pointing up like /\. I think ill just set it to be a couple degrees under the driveshaft angle at ride height. so the pinion and the driveshaft look like \/.

in other news, and you can kinda see it in the above pics. i got my crossover tube in for the shock mount. measured for shocks, and discovered that the 12 inch travel bilstein 7100s that i was hoping to use are about 8 inches to short. apparently the way i got the cross tube in there, i made room for a 14 inch shock. stuffed it way back in there. oh well. now i need to decide if i want to get some cheapish rancho 9000 or pull the trigger on some bypasses.

Becks_Bronco · Post by **Becks_Bronco** » Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:53 am

pinion angle looks kind of ok at full droop. Full compression looks awful lol. Some of that could be how you're jacking up the diff. a single main leave can be very flexy.

Curious what input others have, my rear suspension is still stock, so i don't have any good input for you to correct that, or if it's normal. I can't imagine the u-joints lasting long that way.

Bftank · Post by **Bftank** » Mon Apr 01, 2019 9:03 pm

Becks_Bronco wrote:pinion angle looks kind of ok at full droop. Full compression looks awful lol. Some of that could be how you're jacking up the diff. a single main leave can be very flexy.

Curious what input others have, my rear suspension is still stock, so i don't have any good input for you to correct that, or if it's normal. I can't imagine the u-joints lasting long that way.

the reason it ended up this way, was because i ran out of travel in my driveshaft. with the droop pic if i rotated the pinion angle down any more it would start binding. so the way i thought of it was that it would end up spending more time drooped, than fully compressed. and at ride height the pinion angle is just off enough degrees to keep the roller bearings spinning in the ujoints. so long story short its a massive compromise that i hope doesnt bite me in the but. if it does you guys will know.

Andy Jones · Post by **Andy Jones** » Tue Apr 02, 2019 12:04 pm

I set my pinion angel up and ride height. Cardin joint, driveline, and pinion, all at the same angles. Works perfect with 21”s of travel and no vibration. People scream.. add or subtract degrees to the pinion for travel.. that’s not the case with a Cardin Joint.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tchajagos · Post by **Tchajagos** » Tue Apr 02, 2019 12:36 pm

I wouldn’t set the pinion angle with just the mono leafs. I’d throw the packs back together and jack it up to ride height. The pinion should be inline with the driveshaft at ride height. If you have the e4od your driveshaft will bind before you droop all the way out with 12s under the bed and Deavers.

Do you mean your shocks are too short at full bump or full droop? Because the mono leafs will droop far more than the full pack will.