Introducing a new APEMFB member!

Posts: 1828
Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 12:25 am
Bronco Info: Bronco List:

Location: Phoenix, AZ

Re: Introducing a new APEMFB member!

Postby VintageIronFab » Sun Sep 10, 2017 4:49 pm

Love the odd Aussie only stuff Rod!
http://www.vintageironfabworks.com

77- "Victoria"
71- "Annie" Halfcab
73- "Heloise"
96- "Cheryl"
95- Marilyn (F150)

Posts: 2393
Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:43 am
Bronco Info: '84 F100 shortbed, 5.8 Clev, AOD, 4WD, 9 inch & 33's

Location: Downunder

Re: Introducing a new APEMFB member!

Postby AussieRod » Sun Sep 24, 2017 6:24 am

Update 24 September (got the date right, this time):
A lot has got done over the last week or three, and it is finally drive-able.
Built a harness to run the propane AND gasoline (if Mick decides to go back to dual fuel) with new relays, wiring and corrugated jacket. Made a mount similar to the one on my truck to hold the propane convertor and re-plumbed slightly to make it work. Added P clips to brake lines and propane hoses to make everything secure (and legal) and did some serious re-wiring of the engine and body harness to tidy up the shit nest I started with. Most of the fittings, hoses, etc. came straight off my truck (I'll make replacements later as required) to save time and keep things tidy. The power steer pump had new O rings fitted to the pressure fitting and now it's bone dry.
I found the problem with the steering box, some IDIOT rebuilt the box using a Falcon sector shaft. These are 1/4" shorted at the bottom and have a slightly smaller spline area. That means the F truck pitman arm goes further onto the spline area and the splines stuck through, requiring a step washer to clear the shoulder. The pitman arm hits the bottom of the box before the nut can even come close to tightening everything up. So, I took the arm to work, carefully ground a 1/4" deep groove around the spline end and after pre-heating, laid 2 VERY hot passes to fill the groove with the MIG. I allowed it to air cool and after an hour, ran it on the linisher to smooth it up. Came up a treat. It now fits almost spot on, goes tight and leaves about 3/32" clearance to the box. (The welding shrank the end, in case no-one understands why I welded it.) The radiator support and both fenders got their respective areas wire brushed (rotary brush on my 5" grinder), sand blasted, sanded and painted white inside. The rad support was done on the front side and painted satin black. Once the paint was dry, they were reinstalled and the front re-aligned to the hood. I've used my radiator, brackets and hoses to finish the job and panel-beated the LH grille bracket back straight. Many other small details were taken care of, and the Bronco looks a million bucks under the hood.
RH fender painted:
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Front partially assembled:
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New King +1" springs in place:
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To be cont.

Posts: 2393
Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:43 am
Bronco Info: '84 F100 shortbed, 5.8 Clev, AOD, 4WD, 9 inch & 33's

Location: Downunder

Re: Introducing a new APEMFB member!

Postby AussieRod » Sun Sep 24, 2017 6:35 am

Sept 24 cont:
Front re-assembled, ready for the filler panel and bumper:
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A few engine bay shots:
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I'm currently in the process of repairing the Y pipe, it will get welded up at work tomorrow, and I've ordered a muffler and some straight pipe, so I can build the connector and tailpipe to complete the exhaust. Once that is doen, I will attack the auto and rear diff. The auto needs some O rings in the shift levers and kick-down spindle to stop leaks, the dipstick tube will be replaced with a TCI replacement and it will have a filter change while I have the pan off. The T-case lever(s) need a slight bend to clear both the exhaust and the shifter cable. The 9" will get a new pumpkin gasket and axle bearings, and the brakes checked, bled and cleaned up. Oh yeah, the master cylinder took a major dump when we tried to bleed the "new" calipers, so a new one was ordered and fitted. Once the Y pipe is back on tomorrow, along with the old muffler (temporary), I'll start putting the dash back together and finish tidying up all the loose wiring, etc.
I'll take more pics tomorrow as progress happens. Cheers.

Posts: 2393
Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:43 am
Bronco Info: '84 F100 shortbed, 5.8 Clev, AOD, 4WD, 9 inch & 33's

Location: Downunder

Re: Introducing a new APEMFB member!

Postby AussieRod » Thu Oct 12, 2017 3:37 am

October 12, time for another update.
Been doing a lot of OT lately at work, so we can get the crossover bridge for the hospital finished. This has been a mammoth project for us, and it's finally going together for transport in sections to the fit-up area for the big lift. This has made it hard to find time for the Bronco. Last weekend, I managed to pick up a disposable bottle and gauge for my MIG, and made up the connector with muffler and a tailpipe for the beast. I was forced to take it all to work to weld on the flanges, because I needed some gas to do a cooker repair at the fish and chip shop. Nevertheless, I welded on the flanges and hangers, slapped on some paint and got the exhaust done:

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New 3" Flowmaster and 3" mandrel tailpipe, ready to install.

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Made it exit out the side right behind the mudflap, to keep fumes out.

In between work on the exhaust, I pulled the axles and pumpkin out of the 9" and had a look to see where the leaks were coming from. The LH axle bearing was almost new, so it stayed, but the RH bearing and seal were done. The splines showed some heavy wear from the trac-lok gears, so I fitted a new Timken bearing kit to my spare axle and installed that. The pumpkin gasket hadn't been replaced when it was removed some time previously, and the centre was re-installed with bathroom silicone. The diff oil has basically dissolved that and it leaked around the lower stud holes. I made sure both surfaces were scrupulously clean and re-fitted the centre with a new gasket and a liberal coating of UltraCopper sealant. It now has zero leaks. This weekend, I will re-assemble all the dash and interior, start on the auto and 4WD shift lever and then attack the rusty bodywork. The Flowmaster has a nice healthy note and with some minor tuning on the Impco carb, it boogies along nicely. Almost ready for inspection and hand over. More updates soon.

Posts: 2393
Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:43 am
Bronco Info: '84 F100 shortbed, 5.8 Clev, AOD, 4WD, 9 inch & 33's

Location: Downunder

Re: Introducing a new APEMFB member!

Postby AussieRod » Wed Nov 15, 2017 4:15 am

November 15, how time flies.
Well, the engine is currently being removed (again) to replace the rear main seal. I've been meaning to update progress, but I've either been too busy or too lazy, sorry. Sue me.
I did the auto seals, although the selector shaft seal was ok, the O ring on the kick down lever was missing and without the lever installed, there was a leak. That was fixed, and the lock nut on the band adjuster was leaking too, so I replaced that. It was a herculean effort at night with only my little floodlight, but I got it done, the valve body back in and the pan on and re-filled. The next morning, there is pink fluid on the ground: the pan gasket (firm rubber) won't seal on the stamped steel pan, will it. So, I carefully cleaned all my drain pans until I could eat out of them and re-removed the pan, used Ultra Blue silicone carefully around both pan and casing and tried again. This time, the auto is bone dry. However, after an extended test drive to work and back, plus in town to pick up random stuff needed to finish the Bronco, I got home and checked for fluid leaks, only to find engine oil (a lot of oil) on the rear of the oil pan, dripping off the bell-housing and on the trans pan. So, it's coming out to replace the crank seal. I'm hoping it is the neoprene seal, as it will be easy to replace. Otherwise, if it's a rope seal, I'll have to pull the crank to change it to the neoprene one. I also have to fit the adjustable cams for a wheel alignment (it tramlines badly with those big square shouldered tyres) and pull the front quad shocks off. The ride is like running over 4 x 4 timber on even small bumps and corrugations are hell on earth. With those Monroe gas shocks (2 on each front) it is way over damped with the new springs. It's worth the experiment to see what difference it makes, anyway.
We are also going back to the factory steel styled wheels with 32/11.5R15s, to get rid of those heavy tractor tyres. I hate Cooper tyres. The slightly rounded tread surface on the new tyres will help stop or limit the tram-lining and make it drive better (hopefully). The old rims and tyres will be sold on eBay. Mick and I are both going to use the same type wheels and tyres, so we can swap or use each other's spares in an emergency out bush. I'll snap some pictures tomorrow.
Cheers.


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