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@ Bobby Velazquez, thanks man

The reamer says "SAE 80 -7/8 car reamer 1/2 shank"

I think the angle is 3.5deg I used this link to get the angle from two diameters and a length

http://www.magafor.com/841/uk.htm

Ok its been a while,spent the last few weeks welding 1-2 hours a night, I have got the beams mostly done just need top truss/shock mount and radius arm brackets.

passenger side Radius arm bracket Drivers side Finally I received half of my shock package, I went with Fox 3.0 bypass plus 2.5 coilover, big thanks to Ryan at Accutune for setting me up.

Looking good!

Slowly making progress, finally finished up the beams (mostly still need to finish the double shear on the lower shock mounts) and built the upper shock mount. Almost ready to tear it down and install everything just need to find another ride for a bit as this is my daily driver.

OK its been way to long. Slowly but surely I have completed the engage cage. I also had to order new front body mounts and modify them to clear the radius arms. Just need to finish welding and dial in the limit straps. Also, I'm considering getting the beams nickel or zinc plated has anyone had success doing this?

Really liking how you are doing things on this build!

Agreed - love your style!

As for the nickel or zinc - I haven't done beams in either but I'd go electroless nickel vs. zinc. Zinc just has no "holding power" for lack of a better term. The stuff any shop I have dealt with on it doesn't last near as long on the factory coat on bolts.

Thanks for the kind words!

Next up is front sway bar I could't find a 16" arm with a kick so I'm gonna do my own (screen shot below, note the chargers colors go BOLTS!) I don't have access to a broach so I made the spline section bolt on, this will also allow me to tweak the kick once I mock it up on the truck.

Pulled the motor to paint the frame and found a broken piston, I think this happened last year when I broke a rocker arm. Sending 347 to FPS in Anaheim for a short-block rebuild with forged bottom end.

Bummer on the engine, is that endlink long enough to not bind? I don’t know what I’m talked about in regards to geometry, it just looks short compared to where I think the radius arms will be.

P.s. nickel would be super cool

I am curious how long your front links are. I drew up a similar setup but have not gotten anything turned into metal. I found making unequal length with the top link shorter and not necessarily parallel it really helped the caster change. With some experimenting I was able to get down to 1.5degrees change caster through 16" of swing at the beam mounts which would be more at the wheel. You can also make it go positive at droop instead of the way negative like normal radius arms. Nice work on your build.

My links are 28.5-29" the top link is slightly shorter to set my ride height caster at 6-7 deg, my beams are extended3" with 14" shocks ~18"of wheel travel I get 0.8 deg of caster change ( at bump 0.8 deg more caster than at full droop). As for the sway-bar link it is 4" and I will make it as long as I can once I mock it up.

Also I got my beams back from nickel plate, paid about $300, they look pretty good ( a few cosmetic defects though) I also had them bake for 4hrs post plate to avoid embrittlement.

Resurrecting an old thread, how did that front sway bar turn out?

Glad you did. was just thinking about this a few days ago!

Wow, I don’t think I ever saw this front end build. A front sway bar would be pretty great. With a disconnect would be even better!