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Now that the kids truck is 97% done, it's time to finally start on mine. Went back and forth for quite a while on what I want to do. Found it pretty easy to want to go all out while browsing the posts in here. But...
I'm not in So Cal anymore. I will rarely, if ever see open desert with this truck. And the closest thing to woops around here is a double RxR crossing.
So, here's the plan. Mid travel, solid build for exploration/light camping. I do have questions for some of you about cost/benefit. Seems we spent a little more on the kids truck than expected. So I can't waste money on stupid shit.

Front suspension: 2" coils with beams c&t'd to proper camber. Extended radius arm.
The above I can fab. Question is, I plan to plate the beams for strength while they're out. Am I wrong in wanting to uniball and heim? I know the travel will be limited by the lower coils, but I want to squeak as much functional travel as I can. Shocks: thinking Bilstein 7100 RR. Anything better? Just as good with less out of pocket? Don't want to run double shocks.

Rear: For now gonna build franken-leaf packs until I finally figure out load weight and order Alcan's. Extended shock mount and 7100 non-res.

The drive train is pretty solid. Rebuilt 351W a couple years ago and hardly put any miles on it since. It needs a proper tune and better exhaust. Thinking Y-pipe to 3" out in front of rear tire.

Interior will have to be decided. But I want to rewire the whole truck and eliminate all the crap that's not needed, repair what's worn out. Center console mounted everything. Breakers, switches etc.

Validation is always appreciated, but mostly would like insight on something I may be overlooking or doing wrong.

Alan

Started the 2" c&t today. Was hoping to be further along but life keeps getting in the way.

Looks good! I just played mine and added a little truss at the one spot I though was the weakest.

Been thinking about that kind of brace. I assume it's good for front impact.

Been a little slow lately. But I got the beams and arms finished. Truetrac and new u-joints installed, slipyoke spring ordered (should have done more research, this issue was a surprise to me).
Lee at Raceshock is building some 7100 RR's for me. Same price as new non-res, so why not, eh?

Looking good! How do you like the soft top? I want the same soft top for my 81'

I like it. Installation was a bit odd, could have been my poor reading comprehension skills. I think the designers could learn something from Lego when it comes to intructions. There are some gaps where the top meets the body but I haven't had any leaks. The bottom attachment for the rear window is a permanently mounted crossbar that I found to be a pain in the ass. Couldn't load anything taller than the tailgate. So I cut that off, trimmed it and riveted it to the tailgate. Those are the only complaints.
It's a buttload lighter than the hardtop. All windows are removeable for an open feel with sun shade. Removal is pretty easy, only takes a few minutes. Overall quality is pretty good. Felt a noticeable difference in driving vs the hardtop.

Was able to collect a few more bits and pieces. Lee at Raceshock talked me into a full set of 12" short body 7100 RR's he had. All rebuilt, revalved and ready to go. Tacked in the mounts and checked for binding... all good. Without coil I get a full 16" travel. With coil (which will be my limiter) I anticipate 13" useable travel. Still have an inch plus of shaft at full compression and full droop, so I should be more than safe in the off chance I get airborne and land hard.

What adaptor do I need to find for this?
Want to keep basic brake setup, but damn I loathe the original cast master cylinder.
Bought a later model M/C and now I'm scratching my head.

It was an odd size. I'd say get one off a later model and put it on your brake line. When you droop out the front make sure the axles can still turn. The center u-joint likes to bind up and you may need to clearance it. Also at droop jack up the passenger side and look at the inner axle where is come out of the window in the beam.

Yeah, there's a couple things I need to take a good look at when I get it all back together. Gonna have to rethink the upper coil retainers, make them heavier/stronger.
Got an education on the passenger side stub shaft after I installed the trac-lock differential. Unable to install the C-clip I used the ol' spring in the slipyoke trick. I'm curious how much equal droop I will get before the axle tops out. I already clearanced the center I-joint and welded the cap in place.
As for the master cylinder, I found a part # for a piece that goes there but no real answer as to wtf it is. I'm assuming it's a residual valve. But I've lurked through other threads and see a few people have renoved them and ran to a prop. valve for rear discs. I'll keep digging a hoping someone is able to enlighten me.

I can't remember the size. I think it's m12 or m20. I think there's a 2 in it. Haha. It needs an oring or one of those metal washer with the rubber on it. I bought a plug for mine and drilled and tapped it 1/8 npt and put a -3an adapter in it. All mine is -3 now. I'll take a pic when I get off work.


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Not much done this month. Cleaned up a few of the kids remaining odds and ends. Got the late model mastercylinder thing figured out and put it on the kids truck. Big improvement. I'll get to mine soon, I hope.
Front suspension is done on the Cow and now my mind is stuck at the rear. So I have a question or two for you people.
I need/want a rear suspension that will be able to handle the weight of a fully loaded bed, roof rack, hardtop.... and still be able to be supple with no load and no top.

My thought is a four link with Ruff Stuff URC trailing arms and air bags.

*Reminder: highspeed whoops are not a factor.

Pros? Cons? Opinions...? Let's hear 'em.