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My 2 cents looks cool but it's a bad idea. If a frame shift occurs it will bind. If a mount gets bent it will bind if the cross member gets bent it will bind. In all case senerios of things getting bent it binds due to it being fixed in span from pivot to pivot. If a single attachment point method between the radius arm and beam is used it allows the suspension to still work after the end user tags a rock or wads it up. It allows the beam and radius arm to pivot independant of eachother in the occurrance of a collision allowing the span to become irrelevant. I saw a few years ago Ryan cook built a beautiful set of King pins but used a 2 bolt method. Agian any potential shift would put it in tension that potentially would cause failure. Ive built identical versions to your picture in the past on 2wd's and that was my findings. Just my 2 cents though. Keep up the good work.

Everybody has different opinions on this. I have seen numerous beams bend outside the radius arm mount so the way you can tie 1 piece beam radius arms together out near the knuckle is a huge strength bonus. The other thing is with bolt on radius arms how many possible pivot points do you have per a side? You have 2 main pivots plus the radius arm bolts that are on the same plain. Radius arms can bend in either design except with the added sheer strength of the long triangulation of Cho's design it with help prevent the possibility of bending as easy. It was a no brainer for me Cho built me a set a few months ago and just waiting for him to have time to install and build radius arms to my Bronco. I have seen a lot of beams over the years from the top fabricators in the industry and I could have any of them and I chose Cho's. If it is not apparent from this one, Gary's, Cho's, Jonny's, Bray's, Taylor's truck, mine, and others the boy's over at Richer Racing can knock out quality quick and reasonably priced. If you need a revamp or bronco built call them they hands down are the only shop I am interested in working with for builds from here on out. Cho keep up the solid work buddy but hurry up so we can get my beams installed lol.

hollandermotorsports wrote:Everybody has different opinions on this. I have seen numerous beams bend outside the radius arm mount so the way you can tie 1 piece beam radius arms together out near the knuckle is a huge strength bonus. The other thing is with bolt on radius arms how many possible pivot points do you have per a side? You have 2 main pivots plus the radius arm bolts that are on the same plain. Radius arms can bend in either design except with the added sheer strength of the long triangulation of Cho's design it with help prevent the possibility of bending as easy. It was a no brainer for me Cho built me a set a few months ago and just waiting for him to have time to install and build radius arms to my Bronco. I have seen a lot of beams over the years from the top fabricators in the industry and I could have any of them and I chose Cho's. If it is not apparent from this one, Gary's, Cho's, Jonny's, Bray's, Taylor's truck, mine, and others the boy's over at Richer Racing can knock out quality quick and reasonably priced. If you need a revamp or bronco built call them they hands down are the only shop I am interested in working with for builds from here on out. Cho keep up the solid work buddy but hurry up so we can get my beams installed lol.

You can install your Solo beams on my bronco when its in your shop for the other work. Thanks. ha ha

Ive run out of compliments for your work Cho so ill just say, well done!

Rmc wrote:My 2 cents looks cool but it's a bad idea. If a frame shift occurs it will bind. If a mount gets bent it will bind if the cross member gets bent it will bind. In all case senerios of things getting bent it binds due to it being fixed in span from pivot to pivot. If a single attachment point method between the radius arm and beam is used it allows the suspension to still work after the end user tags a rock or wads it up. It allows the beam and radius arm to pivot independant of eachother in the occurrance of a collision allowing the span to become irrelevant. I saw a few years ago Ryan cook built a beautiful set of King pins but used a 2 bolt method. Agian any potential shift would put it in tension that potentially would cause failure. Ive built identical versions to your picture in the past on 2wd's and that was my findings. Just my 2 cents though. Keep up the good work.

I build them this way because it is the strongest simplest way to do it. Every set I have built and pulled off for prep has always lined right back up. The key is to tie your radius arm pivots together, the one piece beams will actually make your chassis stonger by "x'ing" up your beam to radius arm pivots. Another huge benefit of the way i do it is being able to triangulate the end of the beam, spanning the whole area that was extended. Ive seen multiple extended ttb beams with the extension past the radius arm bolts fold a beam end backwards when stuffing a square hole or a big rock at speed. I like the piece of mind knowing that if i screw up and put the truck in a hole far away from home i will most likely break a wheel or pop a bead and throw a spare on. The problem with a 2 piece set up is that the attachment acts as a pivot point. More problematic is a single bolt through a boss attaching the beam to the radius arm, if the radius arm or frame mount fails the beam will pivot around that point and wrap itself around the beam pivot and bend. You could add a bolt on adjustable strut to triangulate everything but it makes things look busy. I offer two piece radius arms as an option, they work great and make installation a breeze, and are totally fine for 90% of the trucks out there, but if someone wants to go full kill this is the only way i will build them. And to get this thread back on track, some more progress from today. Set up the upper links, got the rear end cyclying, and cut out a little sheet metal.

Ps thanks for the good words Brandon and Ryan!

Clean work as usually !! I'll take a set of one piece please. Bringing my Bronco up tomorrow.

Your wish is my command, see you tomorrow dude!

Are those Jonny's method beadlocks and projects on there for mock up? Those things are like the village bicycle

lol, sure is, actually had to bring it home from my house, i was using it as a spare

Hahahaha, those things really get around.

Got the front shocks today, 3.5" internal bypass. Also got a majority of the back half done.

saw this is person yesterday; it's unreal!

you guys are raising the bar over there- keep up the great work buddy!

C H O wrote:Got the front shocks today, 3.5" internal bypass.

The wave of the Prerunner future. Please get to know those IBP well CHO.....we may be looking to you for same.

What I really like about them is that they're so easy on the suspension, only single shear mounting is needed.

Looking good! Now I want to sell my Bronco ... had I won powerball I was gonna start over and do an a-arm Bronco lol

- Scott

Any more updates Cho? Feed us......

Hey cho great work on Gary's bronco, very clean. Well done man.

Cho
Is this a pontoon cage or is that the lower door bar tying back into the frame behind the passenger front wheel? No matter, looks great.

If I ever win Lotto, I'm shipping the F100 to this guy.

Some current pics