Dezertrage Bronco

ESHALLBETTER · Post by **ESHALLBETTER** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:37 am

dezertrage760 wrote:Hmmmm. I might have to do some more research. Thanks ^^^^

I didn't extend, but this was how I did my cut and turn. I drilled the factory mounting holes from 3/8 to 1/2, and rotated the center section to the location where the axle shaft was happy. I then welded .125" thick weld washers to the beam.

Seemed pretty straight forward.

: CLOCKED DIFF.jpg (77.84 KiB) Viewed 515 times

: reclock washers.jpg (90.7 KiB) Viewed 515 times

dezertrage760 · Post by **dezertrage760** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:30 am

Ok makes sense. What did you do with the two bolts on the back of the housing?

ESHALLBETTER · Post by **ESHALLBETTER** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 4:07 pm

dezertrage760 wrote:Ok makes sense. What did you do with the two bolts on the back of the housing?

Right or wrong it was precision BFH work. The clocking didn't dramatically change its position.

dezertrage760 · Post by **dezertrage760** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 6:44 pm

Some more progress on the bronk. Mostly pix. Hopefully it's be ready to roll in a few more weeks.

Some new brackets to mount those uniballs. Stock configuration just beefier and wider.

Getting the new kings mocked up

And some new rad arms since I sold my old ones.

Went with 4:56 front and rear

And the stance. Still have to fine tune the ride height and spring rate but it will get me rollin.

dezertrage760 · Post by **dezertrage760** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 6:46 pm

I am going to try and extend my axles myself. Any advice from someone who has done it yourself.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:16 pm

dtbback wrote:Wouldn't he gain more travel with clocking even though he's extended?

Clocking helps the clearance when one tire is up and the other is down. Basically the center u joint is raised by re clocking the diff ( from what I can remember anyway, it's been a few since I looked at it in front of me) but when the drivers beam is at tuck and the pass beam is at droop the axel hit the bottom of port window. With extended beams you usually run out of shock shaft before collision but it would depend on how high you place the full tuck position when placing the upper shock mount, height wise. When you cycle the front end be sure to check tuck on both, droop on both, driver up pass down, pass up driver down. You will recognize these 2 key locations as areas that need attention.
Anyway for what it's worth I hope this helps clarify. Oh the next issue becomes the center u joint it self, don't forget to clearance the yolks.

Beams look good, keep up the good work.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:19 pm

I just re-read this, it's actually when the opposite. Drivers beam at droop, pass beam at tuck it hits the bottom of the oprt window.

dezertrage760 · Post by **dezertrage760** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:37 pm

Yea I experienced the yoke clearance problem and the pass side window problem. Fixed both already. Thanks for the advice. And I will post results when I put the front diff and axles in.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:44 pm

dezertrage760 wrote:I am going to try and extend my axles myself. Any advice from someone who has done it yourself.

Chris Wilson had a pretty good little post on how to do it somewhere on here, but he bought spare axles & cut them so as to not have a hollow gap if using a tube to extend. Run a sleeve over the deal that extends past the splice a bit on either side and then fishmouth the end of the sleeve tube for more weld surface area on the ends, as well as rosette or plug welding further in. Do the rosettes at 90* from each other.

Hard to explain with words vs. holding an axle & talking you through it in person, but this is what we've got, so hopefully my words make enough sense.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 11:50 pm

In theory, I would be concerned with out of balance weight wise. But I have seen a bunch done without a problem. Rmc posted a good price on custom axles, but I don't remember where from. Robert, do you remember the vendor and price?

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 1:05 am

I heard they are 400 from Dutchman.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 1:06 am

Oh ya Dutchman sells axels cut you your specs for 400$ a pair. They are buying blank forgings, roll forming the splines vs hobbing them, then machining the eyes and then heat treat. So when you order them they have pre heat treated axels with 2ft of spline on them. They chop saw them to length then turn off the unwanted spline length. It's a very smart way to manufacture them actually. There may be a little bit less strength in roll form vs hobbing but I have never heard of a set failing. Mine still look new after 2 years and no significant signs of ware.

As far as the cut and sleeve method I would chop them, turn a 1"shoulder on each axel segment, then machine a female counter part. So a shaft with 2 1" deep holes very close in diameter to the axel segments. Lay it in a v-block then weld it up. They key is keeping them straight. You could always sleeve over the 2 unions for added security.

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 1:11 am

Rob, why not bore and use a double sided male extension? Would make the extension portion. Stronger and less susceptible to warping from the heat.

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 1:13 am

The double sided male extension could be made with a half circle radius and the axle bore to match. This would distribute the load on the axles better.

dezertrage760 · Post by **dezertrage760** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 5:05 am

Thanks for all the advice. I was thinking about doing them like chase truck754 described. Should be plenty strong. I don't use 4wd that often so I don't think balancing should be a huge issue.