Nighthawk!

[cs_drums]

From what I've gathered from Bray and Josh, GFB members, the math doesn't work. You only get 5 chances before the psom locks out.

[birdco85]

Yeah it seems high but for stock 30" tires the conversion constant is high 9's. So I think with the fact that the vss kit has a smaller pulse rate with the gears and tires, I feel it's kinda close. I just need the math!

[De$ertBronco]

I just checked my psom and mine is set at 10.75 with it being off about 1mph. I just guessed a couple times until I got it close. I am not a mathematician and wasn't factoring in the pulses correctly. But hey I am just a parts guy! brian and bray shoulda known better than to trust me!

[birdco85]

I texted Bray but no response yet. From what I've heard is the leadnav app can be a few mph off and racers are getting penalties for speeding because of it. That's just rumors though. Nothing first hand.

[De$ertBronco]

oh and my setup is the same as yours currently, so i think you figured out the math! good job!

[birdco85]

At 65 on my speedo the GPS says 70. Much closer.

[birdco85]

And for those of you that have converted to rear disks, is there a proportioning valve I can remove? I have a little rest brakes but not anywhere near enough.

[De$ertBronco]

for anyone else reading this thread we are referring to brandon hollander's VSS relocation kit... others (brea/leduc) would almost surely be a different amount of pulses (magnets/notches). That being said with my psom set to 10.75 and using a gps mine was seemingly dead on until i held it at 65 or 70 where it was a clear 1-2 mph off, but I don't remember exactly at which mph or if it was slower or faster... sorry it was like 3 years ago. At the time I had pretty much brand new 35" bfg a/t ko's (not ko2's obviously, which are probably a different conversion constant) and 4.86 gears as well. I am assuming there will be a slight variation due to tire wear, but I wouldn't think THAT much. I am surprised/bummed you weren't more accurate using the appropriate math. At that point you can still put a couple more guesses in to dial it in before you max the psom out. Anyways you will want an adjustable prop and residual valves.. see brian's (cs_drums) build for reference.

[birdco85]

Well I burned up both rear axle seals. I've been daily driving it for over a month now with no issues, then we went to the Mojave trail and about 40 miles in I lost the rear right seal. It wasn't bad so I kept running it. A couple miles later I lost the left, now I'm scratching my head, and it's bad. It was a constant stream of oil from both now. I got it to our checkpoint we had setup with a flat bed and jacked the rear off the ground. I tried to turn the tires and the brakes are dragging horribly. A buddy said his axle did the same thing for the same reason. He didn't remove the residual valve and the brakes heated everything so much that his seals melted.

I could barely touch the Lug nuts they were so hot. What do you guys think?

[cs_drums]

Residuals for drums are usually 10lb for disc you want 2lb I ditch what you have and get a 2lb. I've run my set up with no issues.

[dtbback]

Residuals for drums are usually 10lb for disc you want 2lb I ditch what you have and get a 2lb. I've run my set up with no issues.

Are there residuals on the factory system?

[tcm glx]

Residuals for drums are usually 10lb for disc you want 2lb I ditch what you have and get a 2lb. I've run my set up with no issues.

X2

[birdco85]

Do you think I just melted the seals? I have been driving it 20-30 miles one way to work everyday but on the asphalt with non spirited driving and have had zero issues. We were mobbing in the dunes out there and I was driving it pretty hard so I can imagine stabbing the brakes a bunch times doesn't help. I was just going to gut the stock residual. The calipers ratchet so I dint think I need to worry about them retracting.

I've also heard people use the master cylinder off of a 2000 lightning since its disk-disk and all the fittings match and dimensions are the same.

Any experience with that

[birdco85]

Also forgot to mention that I did the sag conversion and am disappointed in it. Maybe it's a bad pump but I can't turn at all while stopped but as soon as the truck moves an inch I can turn. Is there some sort of modification I can do to the pump to give it more pressure? I also put the threat steering on before the conversion and couldn't turn with the stock pump. I thought doing the sag would fix the issue. I know the threat system has some different leverages but I wouldn't think they're much steeper than the stock steering.

[Tchajagos]

Don't you have to turn up the pressure on the sag pump? I don't remember. That swing steering looks to have less mechanical advantage which would make the pump have to work harder.

[birdco85]

Definitely less mechanical advantage. It's just under a 2:1 ratio. It's pretty nice though only having to turn the wheel less 1 turn each way.

[birdco85]

And I haven't seen anything about turning the pressure up, I'd like to know how to do that

[cs_drums]

Sag pump should feel night and day. It did on my truck. I had to go back to the stock pump when installed the supercharger. The new stock pump isn't close to the junk yard sag I took off.

[birdco85]

Yeah it does a smidge better than the stock one and that one was leaking everywhere ave whining like crazy. This one is quiet but just zero turning power when stopped. Even on dirt I can't turn it. Maybe a bad pump?

[cs_drums]

Maybe. So are you the first to run the threat steering? Any input on others with it? My single swing steering gave me more leverage and I can turn my 37s at a stand still on pavement with the stock box, whines a bit but still turns pretty easy. Essentially that same leverage comes back on the sector shaft as well so I need a ram for my piece of mind.