Nighthawk!

[yikes]

Beautiful steering system. How long are the swingers?

I would go ahead and get a ram on it. Problem solved. The ratio is putting a lot more stress on the box. It will twist/break the sector shaft (assuming Ford box) eventually if you drive it hard. I went through 4 boxes before I learned.

[Cactus Cooler]

Its funny Brian you chimed on this, after reading this this morning, I thought about asking you if you had this problem with yours and if that's why you went to a ram assist. I'm curious about my SINGLE Swing steer, it's also from Threat and was thinking of doing the ram assist as well. Guess this will have to be a top priority for my build.......funny how it just snow balls.. haaahaaa At the time Dave only had the single swing and hadn't built the dual system yet. Wish I would have waited, looks pretty sweet!

[birdco85]

It's a really nice system, quality is great. The only thing is the ratio on the relay arms. The bronco is at my parents so I can't measure but it's very close to a 2:1 ratio. I wish the push rods were closer to the tie rods. Maybe a 1.5:1 ratio would be better. What's involved with ram assist? Obviously the ram and lines, can I tap the box (that's what she said) myself for the fittings or do I have to send it to someone? Howe is right down the street from me so I could go there.

Is there any way to tell if I got a bad pump?

[funinthesun95]

you can tap your stock box yes. if you give it a google a few sites have break downs.

braking a sector shaft while driving is no fun... Ram assist does not totally prevent the problem but it for sure gives more piece of mind. It was a game changing add-on in how much I enjoyed driving the bronco on and off road.

[Cactus Cooler]

Hey,hey,hey all this talk about tapping box and goggling websites.....

[Andy Jones]

My buddy is running Dave's dual swing kit with a stock Box. Turns just fine when stopped .

[birdco85]

So I finally swapped pumps last night and it definitely turns better, not perfect though. I am able to turn about 1/4-1/3 each direction and then it sounds like it starts to bypass. I am able to turn all the way each direction with force when last pump I couldn't really turn at all. I'm thinking of drilling the relay arms so the tie-rod heims are closer to the relay bars, basically as close as I can get them. Thought on that?

Also, I am having a hell of a time with my brakes. Ever since I put the disk on the rear I have to really stand on the pedal to get it to stop and it still seems like there are no rear brakes. I changed my master to one of a 2002 Lightning since that has rear disk in hopes of getting more fluid to the rear but it is even harder to stop now. I know the bore is bigger and I was expecting to have a slightly harder pedal but it is ridiculous. I am thinking my booster is bad now. I have plenty of vacuum to the line and the check valve does work. I ran the engine for a minute last night, turned it off and immediately pulled the check valve and could hear it suck air into the booster. When I depress the brake pedal it is just hard though, no "whoosh" when I push the pedal, engine on and off. I know I am getting fluid to rear disks, it only took about 6 pumps to fill my bleeder bottle. Do you guys think the booster is bad?

Also, what size are the fittings on the ABS pump. I don't have time to replace all the lines so I just want to get a union and a tee and just connect the lines right at the pump. I just don't want to pull the lines in case the fittings aren't available. That info would be great.

Thanks guys.

[cs_drums]

I've been meaning to look into s master with a bigger bore. My brakes work pretty good but very soft and a lot of travel.

Was the lightening MC bolt on?

[birdco85]

Yeah it was bolt on, if you get the 02 then the rear brake fitting is the correct size for the rear line and just threads right in. You don't need to use that giant residual valve that is mounted to the stock master. It has a 1-1/4" bore opposed to the stock 1-1/8".

I went ahead and ordered a new booster and put it on tonight before I head to Superstition tomorrow. I will also make sure the push rod is adjusted correctly, which I think it isn't currently. Hopefully this fixes it, I really want to have brakes this weekend. I can't imagine the different rear brakes would completely tank the front brakes but who knows.

[cs_drums]

Great info thanks! I have all customs lines from the MC out so I may need an adopter or too no biggie. Thanks again.

[birdco85]

Hey CS you are welcome to this master. It has about 1.5 miles on it, I removed it and put the stocker back on. I just have the boost to make it work. I think I paid $50 or so dollars for it and the stock brake level sensor slides right in the bottom. If you'd like to make an offer let me know.

On another note, I removed the spring from the giant adapter for the rear brake line that's between the master and the line. I'm assuming that was to make it a residual valve. I also noticed that there is small black thingy inside the adapter as well that appears to act as a proportioning valve. It had a very tiny pin hole running through it. I drove it again with just that piece in there and I still didn't really have any rear brakes. I took the adapter back apart and drilled the pin hole a little bigger and got better rear brakes. Still not enough so I will do it again but it was time to hit the road for Superstition.

Great time out there with Cwrisley and few others. Bronco did great but was in limp mode which I didn't realize for almost 2 days was from the speedo and odometer not working. I guess I don't look at the speedo very much. I checked all the fuses inside, with a test light, and they were all good. I didn't check under the hood which I realize I should have. Any thoughts on that if the fuses under the hood are good? A

nd the right rear axle seal started leaking again!! What am I doing wrong here? I pressed the bearing race in, put the axle in and bolted down the retainer. No spacer between the retainer and axle flange and I am running the retainers that Currie sent me. Should a put a coating of RTV on the outside of the seal? This is driving me crazy. I had a good coating of grease for the seal surfaces so I know I didn't burn them up. I have a feeling the housing end is warped a little bit and leaving a small area for the lube to leak through. Any thoughts?

[tcm glx]

Also forgot to mention that I did the sag conversion and am disappointed in it. Maybe it's a bad pump but I can't turn at all while stopped but as soon as the truck moves an inch I can turn. Is there some sort of modification I can do to the pump to give it more pressure? I also put the threat steering on before the conversion and couldn't turn with the stock pump. I thought doing the sag would fix the issue. I know the threat system has some different leverages but I wouldn't think they're much steeper than the stock steering.

Solo sells a modded box, take a look:
http://www.solomotorsports.com/products ... -steering/

[cs_drums]

Send me a price and your PayPal and I'll shoot you the $$ for that master. I'm in Virginia for a while but I'll be home in May. Will you ship?

[cs_drums]

Ship to Vista CA, that is.

[birdco85]

Totally forgot about this but I sent you a pm a few months back CS if you still want the master.


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[birdco85]

So I know it's been a while since I've updated this thread, but I'm having sine issues. When I did the 9 inch swap I put the thunderbird calipers on that PaulW is running and rotors from from an 02 Kia Sportage. They are the closest in thickness to a stock Thunderbird rotor, 5x5.5 Bolt pattern and are 11.2" diameter. Not bad for an off the shelf rotor. I kept everything stock up front and before the swap it seemed to stop pretty well, I was able to lock up the tires on the street.

Now after the conversation, everything seems crappy. After the initial run I gutted the stock proportioning valve and it helped, barely. Then I tried to upgrade to the lightning master and at the same time replaced my booster. The booster failed the engine off test but did good with the engine on so I figured why not. Well I didn't have enough boost for the lightning master (1-1/4" bore) so off it came and the stocker went back on. Still crappy brakes.

I finally got around to completely removing the abs motor and converted most everything to -3 up front. I also added a Wilwood prop valve inline for the rear. Way simpler for sure and easier to make I feel. I really thought that was going to be it because in my mind the abs motor had air or something wrong with it but it seems it didn't.

I still can't even get the rears to lock up in the dirt! I've tried a lot of positions on the prop valve and it makes minor changes but nothing that tickles my pickle.

I then replaced the stock master because it would slowly fall to the floor with the engine on, so after researching that found that that means fluid is bypassing the pistons and it needs replacing. So a new one is in, everything bled, still sucks!

So, way back when, when my axle seals disintegrated, the rotors and pads were soaked with gear lube, I replaced the pads when I fixed the seals but not the rotors. After which, the brakes still sucked, so I replace pads front and rear with Wagner ceramics. Still sucks.

So my question is, in the rear, do you guys think the rotors being soaked in gear lube will make them never bite again? I didn't turn the rotors or anything after new pads. I'm about to light this thing on fire. What am I doing wrong? Should I replace all rotors and pads? Power stop makes a kit for the front with drilled slotted rotors and carbon fiber ceramic pads for $170. They make fancy pads for the tbird calipers and I can get whatever rotors I want for the rear also (drilled, slotted, or both) and put those on, do a whole other brake in procedure and see how it goes. I'm just really worried the rear will still not work right. And the calipers so travel normal, I pushed the brake pedal while they were unmounted and the piston traveled normally.

I'm just at a loss and getting super frustrated, so is my wife, and want the brakes to work normal. I do not have room for a f350 booster or hydro boost because of my coilover towers unless I cantilever the master. I don't have a garage at the moment so fab is a little hard.

What do you guys think? Help me out!!


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[hollandermotorsports]

How long is your rear soft line? When you switched to -3 how much of that was soft lines? Soft lines will expand not allowing full pressure to find its way to the wheels. For example I had a customer that bled his brakes probably 20 times could not get the brake pedal he desired. brought it to me had me look at it we bled the brakes 1 more time before he bit the bullet for us to do hard line along radius arm with 2 short soft lines at each end for radius arm movement as well as steering and caliper removal. We also did as short of a rear soft line as possible without hindering travel or service and re bleed and it had awesome brakes. Granted I have big brakes and links (nice for hard lines) on my set up but I am totally stock on master cylinder I can lock up with 37s very easily on the black top. My bronco has 8 10" soft lines through out the whole vehicle.

[birdco85]

I only the regular extended length soft lines. Like what you would buy for a lift kit.


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[birdco85]

Anybody? Ideas?


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[dtbback]

Out of curiosity, did you install a 2lb residual pressure valve when you redid the master and added the Wilwood proportioning valve? While researching all the info and parts for my swap that is one of the things I across that was necessary.

If it were me I would order new rotors and see if that makes a difference.