Nighthawk!

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Sat May 02, 2015 12:34 pm

I've seen his build. That air box is just huge.

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Sat May 02, 2015 11:25 pm

Got a little more done on the tire carrier. Im pretty happy with it. I wish I had a tube notcher though. I was wasting a bunch of tube trying to get the notches right with the grinder and finally said screw it. I got the notches close enough and just fill welded a few of the pieces.

And I was going to pick up a new sag pump tomorrow, does it matter what brand? Should I get Napa or is autozone OK? They all have lifetime warranty.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Sun May 03, 2015 11:03 am

I advise a flap wheel vs a grinding wheel on your 4" grinder. It works better all around.
As far as napa or autozone, nearly all autoparts houses use the same main companies if your buying refurbished. On new parts I don't really have an opinion. I just know there's only 1 or 2 companies in the us building ps pumps.

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Sun May 03, 2015 11:45 am

Thanks RMC. I was actually using a cut off wheel, I use flap wheels for everything it grind, I have one grinding wheel that I've had for years, haha. I just ran out of patience from over cutting and making the piece too short.

And OK, Napa has one in stock, any difference between the stripped chassis and the regular? They offer 2 different part numbers. I have the one Philo sent me I'll just compare if I have to.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Mon May 04, 2015 10:59 am

You guys know there are plastic versions of the UMP type stuff out there and muuuuch cheaper. They are just tractor air filers. Kar-tek and McKenzies started selling some of the plastic ones I think, but still at way more than they would cost through a farm supply place online. You just have to research how much cfm they can support & get the right one for your motor.

And Kris' filter (towards the end of the linked thread above) is another idea that is similar to a tractor filter.

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Thu May 07, 2015 3:21 pm

So I have been having some issues with welding. For some reason lately, when I finish welding a little
Molten bubble of metal that erupts from the bead and sometimes pops, sometimes doesn't. Also, lately, I've been getting pretty bad porosity. I have tried new consumables, also have a new tank of gas. I've tried inside and outside, garage open and closed, gas flow anywhere from 20-35 (whatever the measurement called). I've had the same issue before but very randomly. The only thing I can think of is that I didn't grind the surfaces clean. I'm getting the porosity bad where I would too flat bar and Now I think it's because I didn't get the casting slag off. But on the tubing I get the molten bubbles more commonly, what do you guys think?

Its pretty frustrating because thus rack was going so well and Now I want to throw it away. But here's the basically finished product.

VintageIronFab · Post by **VintageIronFab** » Thu May 07, 2015 8:24 pm

What you're describing is a combo of crud on the steel and I bet a tiny small breeze. Take a cutoff wheel to the shitty parts and just redo it. You just need to make sure you cut enough that you almost completely cut the weld out. First try a test part and see how that piece does. One thing is tits nozzle and ground- clean nozzle/tip and clean the ground. Just go back to the fundamentals until you figure it out. O and don't be a cheap badtard and get a cheapo HF notcher at the least

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Thu May 07, 2015 9:26 pm

Haha yeah I need the notcher.

And there was no breeze for part of it. I closed the garage door. So the worst parts are the ones on the flat bar. Must be that dark gray slag. I should've ground it off. I still don't understand why the little molten eruptions happen. They're random and on pieces exactly the same as others that don't happen.

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Fri May 08, 2015 10:09 pm

So I got the console installed for the last time, all wiring is done from the console to the rear and buttoned up. And all wiring is ran into the engine compartment. I prewired the rear for a dust light, was going to do a whip light also but then realized this isn't a buggy and it's not a banshee. And I'm not 16 haha. I prewired the front for an additional light and engine fan or something else. The switches light up green on the bottom when the headlights are on and the top red when the switch is on. I put am switch for the radio because it draws .01 amps when off. I know not a lot but it sits for a good while and that will end up killing the battery pretty quickly.

Turned out pretty awesome in my eyes, what do you guys think?

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Fri May 08, 2015 11:10 pm

Looks great!

dtbback · Post by **dtbback** » Fri May 08, 2015 11:20 pm

Really like it!! Very clean!!

cypher · Post by **cypher** » Sat May 09, 2015 7:28 pm

Well done! Blends right in. Super clean.

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Sat May 09, 2015 8:21 pm

Thanks guys!

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Sat May 09, 2015 10:14 pm

Do any of you guys have pictures of how you mounted your fuse block? Mine was mounted to the fender liner and is causing it to sag which in turn is causing my tires to hit at full bump. I'm thinking something with 1" flat bar. Thanks!

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Sun May 10, 2015 12:35 am

Here's what I did. I poped a few holes In flat bar, gusseted it and reused the factory bolts. It's not the prettiest but it has yet to crack or fail. I remember cutting every single zip tie in the assy and I was able to move it up a little higher and farther from harms way.

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Fri May 15, 2015 7:20 pm

I ended up welding some flat bar to the sides of the fuse block bracket and a piece at an angle to triangulate it. Then I drilled some holes in the inner fender and put some rivnuts in. Worked great..... Until I tried to close the hood! Dangit!! I lifted it way too high. So back to the grinder and welder I will go.

Anyway. I started pulling all the abs wiring out and it dawned on me, I'm going to use all the empty fuse locations and relay locations for my lights and future accessories. I prewired the engine area for 2 lights and maybe an electric fan or something else necessary. I also have no desire to keep the trailer back up light relay or the trailer charge relay. So basically the entire extra 4 relay block that's next to the fuses will be completely empty. Plus I'll have3-4 fuses in the block that I can use.

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Sun May 17, 2015 12:22 pm

I seem to recall a while back in someone's post, something about a real heavy duty plastic washer fluid reservoir with pump. Does anyone remember that and can find it and link it for me? Gracias!

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Sun May 17, 2015 12:32 pm

Never mind, I finally found the end of google.

Flambeaufluids.com

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Tue May 19, 2015 2:13 am

RMC, I have one of the 6qt ones for my RV from that company. I got it for the Bronco but I needed one on the RV. They are really well built and it even has a low level sensor built in. I am going to get another once the Bronco is back up and running. I am not sure which size yet, the 6qt is pretty big.

birdco85 · Post by **birdco85** » Tue May 19, 2015 8:39 am

The factory washer reservoir is 2.8 qts so I'd like to keep the same. I measured last night and the 3 qt will fit fine. They also make coolant recovery tanks. I sent an email to usplastics.com because they are a dealer for them to get a price but haven't heard back.

Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Re: Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Re: Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Re: Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Re: Nighthawk!

Re: Nighthawk!

Re: Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Re: Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!

Nighthawk!