"project orange juice"

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Mon May 12, 2014 3:58 pm

On the bump pad idea spanner holes or slots could be added to the outside diameter to be used in place of the nut as well. Just thinking out loud of course.

fomoco51 · Post by **fomoco51** » Mon May 12, 2014 5:02 pm

I'm diggin the ideas thanks Rmc. Ive got a piece of 3/8's plate I cut out to 3" diameter for the pad. I was gonna drill a 3/4" hole in the center and rosette weld it to the bolt. I do like the fact of flipping the bolt though, to keep the threads safe.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Mon May 12, 2014 9:33 pm

I don't like the idea of adding heat to the bolts in any form. It will cause temper variations and embrittlement. Pm me your address and ill pm my Paypal to cover shipping and material ill make them up for you on the lathe. It will take me all of about 10 mins total, I have aluminum or mild steel you choose. It will be my contribution to your ride bro.

Ill tell you a better idea still... Just thought of this one on the fly while typing. Take a piece of 1/4" cut a hex shaped hole in it so when the bolt is inserted its flush and you don't need a wrench on the top side to hold it while tightening. It will broaden the allowed footprint area of the bump tip with less dammage than that hex shape alone. I'm not sure if that explanation is very clear but you could take the bolt head trace it to outline the hex, an 1/8 inch drill ant drill the tips of each point previously traced. Drill the center with a 5/8 or whatever and clean up the distance between the small holes with a hand file to make the hex, or plasma cutter if you have access to one. Then the whole top would be nearly a flat pad. Just an idea....

fomoco51 · Post by **fomoco51** » Tue May 13, 2014 5:56 am

I gotcha and then weld said piece to the radius arm pocket, and the bolt will be locked in by the pad on top. I like both ideas.

Travisfab · Post by **Travisfab** » Tue May 13, 2014 7:04 am

If you do the bolt upside down, you could do a striker like what's pictured here. Just have a metal shop cut a few pieces of bar stock, and weld then weld it to a nut.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Tue May 13, 2014 9:10 am

I'm always nervous about running a bolt upside down just in case the nut comes loose and falls off. With the vibration an off road truck sees the bold could come out if installed head down. Yes, this is an unlikely scenario, but bolts installed threads down have a MUCH harder time falling out.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue May 13, 2014 10:53 am

True. I guess I was thinking the upside down senerio cause the id threaded pad would act like a double nut. But point taken.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Tue May 13, 2014 10:55 am

it's a "which is worse" scenario of welding a plate to the head of the bolt, or running the bolt upside down. I'd want the bolt double nutted if upside down too.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Tue May 13, 2014 10:59 am

Like I was saying though putting heat into any bolt is a very bad idea. In my mind its clear which is worse. Not that any of the ideas I presented are gospel but just my personal view.

Wrightracing.net · Post by **Wrightracing.net** » Tue May 13, 2014 11:17 am

Safety wire the upside down bolt or put a locking plate on the bolt head. Not an issue then.

cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Tue May 13, 2014 11:57 am

I run several bolt in my steering upside down. I red locktite with toplock and mark with paint pen once tq'd (OCD), I do this with everybolt on the truck I have touched. Everytime I get in my truck I do a once around checking if any of the apint pen hatches moved for piece of mind. I dont race so its not as likely that I will not catch something befor its catostrophic. Never had an issue except the stock steering box bolts which after the fact i rplace with safety wired grade 8s.

It has worked fine for me, just my $.02

fomoco51 · Post by **fomoco51** » Sat May 31, 2014 2:46 pm

Finally getting shit done on this damn thing after about a month hiatus from working on it. Got the passenger bump can tacked in, and building tge brackets for tge drivers. Hope to have both welded in later today.

fomoco51 · Post by **fomoco51** » Sat May 31, 2014 5:43 pm

Both bumps tacked in!!!! But went past the beer threshold to put down some decent welds so gonna call it. Set tge steering in and got my extention measurements. How much thread is everybody showing with theres? I left about 3/4" each side. And I opted for the ambulance stuff by moog to get me by until I get time and $ for a single swing.

fomoco51 · Post by **fomoco51** » Sat May 31, 2014 6:42 pm

Almost on her own weight. But got bored so set her together

fomoco51 · Post by **fomoco51** » Sat May 31, 2014 6:43 pm

Another angle.

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Sat May 31, 2014 9:21 pm

Looking good! In the pics it looks wide as a lane of traffic. I'm digging it.

fomoco51 · Post by **fomoco51** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 1:43 pm

Thanks Rmc. With the 5.5 over beams and stock wheels im only sitting at 89"s.

drewbee88 · Post by **drewbee88** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 6:04 pm

Rmc wrote:I just thought of something... Take the the radius arm bolt turn it upside down and make a screw on bump pad. I could make them for you if you told me the thread and diameter of that bolt but what I just pictured in my old noggin was a piece of round stock drilled and bottom tapped the same as what's exsisting. You would still maintain the bolt and nut this would thread on above the nut on whatever remaining thread is left.

Why not make a bump pad that doesn't screw on but slides under the bolt head like a washer?

Rmc · Post by **Rmc** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 7:19 pm

drewbee88 wrote:
Rmc wrote:I just thought of something... Take the the radius arm bolt turn it upside down and make a screw on bump pad. I could make them for you if you told me the thread and diameter of that bolt but what I just pictured in my old noggin was a piece of round stock drilled and bottom tapped the same as what's exsisting. You would still maintain the bolt and nut this would thread on above the nut on whatever remaining thread is left.
Why not make a bump pad that doesn't screw on but slides under the bolt head like a washer?

I could do that too, with a counter bore large enough to fit a socket in to but it would tear up the delrin bump pad on the bump tip in time. It was just an idea to have a smooth surface to have the bump tip to contact. But they could easily be made to be flush with the bolt head. I suppose they could be made weld on for that matter like a big ass weld washer with a counterbore the diameter of the bolt head plus a socket.

drewbee88 · Post by **drewbee88** » Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:26 pm

Rmc wrote:
drewbee88 wrote:
Rmc wrote:I just thought of something... Take the the radius arm bolt turn it upside down and make a screw on bump pad. I could make them for you if you told me the thread and diameter of that bolt but what I just pictured in my old noggin was a piece of round stock drilled and bottom tapped the same as what's exsisting. You would still maintain the bolt and nut this would thread on above the nut on whatever remaining thread is left.
Why not make a bump pad that doesn't screw on but slides under the bolt head like a washer?
I could do that too, with a counter bore large enough to fit a socket in to but it would tear up the delrin bump pad on the bump tip in time. It was just an idea to have a smooth surface to have the bump tip to contact. But they could easily be made to be flush with the bolt head. I suppose they could be made weld on for that matter like a big ass weld washer with a counterbore the diameter of the bolt head plus a socket.

I was thinking a horseshoe style that you can get a wrench in to hold bolt from side and zap it with impact from bottom. There are many ways to skin the cat though.

"project orange juice"

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