96 Bronco - Project "Cheryl"

[VintageIronFab]

Well I'm kinda hoping to keep it just a tad bit higher than AF so I'm not offended . Lol!!

I had a spare that day and just a few tools and I think the SWP-chomo shackles were installed too.

Here is my rear shock mount that is a bit different than some and also pics up the cross member for strength as well. If I were to do it again I'd combine mine and Kel-fabs design.

[tcm glx]

Looks like the resi 90 degree fitment is hitting the sheetmetal when the shocks cycle......

[RyanDS650X]

"Self clearancing"... like my Camburg shackles haha. Im suprised the 90 didnt break off.

[VintageIronFab]

Unfortunately the FOA 90* fitting isn't really the best overall fit and on really hard hits it hits the floorboard. I've seen king and fox use some tight 90* fittings that would be perfect. That or a bypass. I can say that whole heartedly that the shocks don't bottom out which is prob the most important.

[Rmc]

Discharge the shock, remove the resi hose and 90. Any reputable hydraulic hose shop will get you a 45 or recrimp a new end on your resi hose to suit a 45. Just an idea anyway. The 45 would lower the shoulder. I believe foa uses jic fittings.

[tcm glx]

Unfortunately the FOA 90* fitting isn't really the best overall fit and on really hard hits it hits the floorboard. I've seen king and fox use some tight 90* fittings that would be perfect. That or a bypass. I can say that whole heartedly that the shocks don't bottom out which is prob the most important.

That fitting can/will bend and cause leakage......look into finding a way to do that a little different I'd suggest.

[Rmc]

I agree with tony, something else...after a second look, The hose end will need to be cut off and a standard jic to male npt, then a jic end crimped on the hose end. The standard jic type fitting dosnt look like a non swivel banjo like in the picture. It's more like a street elbow, with a smaller outside. If you went this route you could flip the shock 180 as well and clamp the resis to the cross brace. You also may try that first before spending 100$ on the fitting swaps.

[VintageIronFab]

Well the shocks need to be revalved heavier actually so when they get that I'm getting some fittings put in. I'd like to do the shocks myself for the experience but I'll probably send them back into FOA. I'm thinking the simple male/male 90* fitting pointing straight down with a straight JIC. Same configuration as before just tighter- I bought a nitro tank so charging them up is pretty easy.

[VintageIronFab]

Interior pics:
Front seats--
Pair of Mastercraft XD's and had a pad made to match the seats.
Rear seat-- I bought some matching extra vinyl from Mastercraft and had the stock rear seat re-covered to match the front seat pattern. Turned out really nice. I ended up having the front and rear headliner done in black. The visors are just stock F150s painted satin black

[RyanDS650X]

Looks good, Matt!

[tcm glx]

Looking good!!

[Rmc]

[quote="VintageIronFab"]Well the shocks need to be revalved heavier actually so when they get that I'm getting some fittings put in. I'd like to do the shocks myself for the experience but I'll probably send them back into FOA. I'm thinking the simple male/male 90* fitting pointing straight down with a straight JIC. Same configuration as before just tighter- I bought a nitro tank so charging them up is pretty easy.[/

Here's a link. Save the money bro+ gain the experience.


http://youtu.be/cJb1AgvNZG0

[Rmc]

Seats look good!

[VintageIronFab]

Here us how I got the 35" spare inside. Robert (horse with no name) gave me the idea to move the seat forward. So I made a "brick" of sorts that's the shape of the seat latch and some longer bolts. The "brick" is about 1 3/4" thick but the seat mounting holes moves forward the distance of the factory holes - which us about 3" oddly enough. How that math shakes out I have no idea .. lol!!! So the tire mount is almost done but needs a provision for a jack and lug wrench. The tire uses basically a Y-style tire hold down I fashioned up with some limiting straps I wasn't using. When tight the tire just holds itself in place. There could be a spacer of sorts but it isn't needed. To mount to the body a piece you can kind of see out of some flat stock bolts to one side of the inner lip and a long flat strap along the back acts as another big "washer". Added a couple dimple die holes for some bling and it's done!

If you look really close next to the cradle on the floor you see some triangle pieces. Those are cargo hold downs from some late 90's- early 2000's S10 Blazers. Those hold downs are just simply awesome!! The are in everyone of those Chevys and use a nice robust 3/8" sized hole (use a T-45/50 torx bit from the factory) and are so much nicer than so many of the aftermarket pieces I've seen out on the market!

[VintageIronFab]

Tire angles in for just a tad more room....

Still need an edit feature badly mods...

[VintageIronFab]

Old ugly tail light lenses refurb. After a really really good cleaning and some scotch brite pad work. I clear coated my old factory rear lenses. They look good as new and I'm not fighting Chinese repop junk! This is actual clear you'd shoot out of a gun tinted with black. Regular clear if you don't want a tinted effect. Leave rattle can clear for model cars as it's durability is pretty low.

[Rmc]

Very nice job on the seat mount mods. Great idea!

[keenanduran1]

I like the way you set up the spare tire.

[robertcrav]

what does the top of the Y Strap mount to?

Looks good

[keenanduran1]

I was thining the same thing ^^^
Can you post some pics please.