96 Bronco - Project "Cheryl"

[VintageIronFab]

Here's the mounting tab poking thru the plastic interior trim

[VintageIronFab]

In case anyone wondered about towing and using a Go fast FSB. So this week I towed a bunch with my 96. She's got a good flexy suspension and a 4.56 gear and stock everything engine. With a steel trailer, no trailer brakes, no sway bars, and really improperly loaded with a fully put together 77 bronco. It honestly pulled pretty nicely. Change to a shorter aluminum trailer, properly loaded, with brakes and I think pulling with it would be a breeze and pretty darn pucker-free. More engine power would have been nice but I could still pull a decent hill at speed. Don't be afraid to pull with a bronco like I was!

[VintageIronFab]

I am kicking around selling this 96 I have. Mainly just wondering what's a realistic price on this project given the work that's been done. It's a pretty nice bronco and arguably one of the cleanest chassis that you might come across. Thanks for any thoughts!

[RyanDS650X]

Ill give you 5 dollhairs?

[VintageIronFab]

Well hell yeah

[RyanDS650X]

Gas the bitch up and run around the Hammers with a 4 sale sign on it.

[VintageIronFab]

That's a good thought!

[VintageIronFab]

Got a few things done to "Cheryl" before heading out to KOH 2015 a few weeks back:
**new 3 core Champion radiator
**heater core
**fan clutch
**OEM serp belt
**bigger stand alone Trans cooler with a custom bracket, center rib modification and racey -6AN lines to mate up to the 5/16" stock line via -5AN/-6AN adapters
**Performance Friction brake pads - gone are the cheapo store brand pieces!
**Projector HID head lights
**oil change
**Autolite Platinum AP 25 plugs

[VintageIronFab]

**Champion 3-core aluminum radiator - once I put it on I immediately put right at about 850 trouble free miles on. I wasn't driving in hot weather but on the highway the temp never went about N on the NORMAL on the gauge. Install was easy and straight forward but the stock adapters in the stock radiator are not correct. You probably would have to use a -5AN/1/8"NPT male/male and reflare the factory hard line for this to work.

**Aux transmission cooler was honestly pretty easy to do but the center rib has to be modified or the bracket has to be changed for this to work. This is due to the center rib leaning back some and if the cooler was mounted flat would be in a pretty good twist-- its about a 1" offset actually. Easiest way is to modify the rib off the vehicle and then reinstall. I installed with some -6AN line I had and reflared the factory hard line. Not as racey as some but was really clean never the less.

[VintageIronFab]

** HID Projector Headlights -- there is a big difference from the stock units and provide a nice clean cutoff. These are a great addition and make night driving so much better than the hazy 20yo headlight housings provided. Couple things -- don't buy the Ebay cheapos as they are really junk and the mounting/adjusters are just a nightmare to work with. If you don't want to spend the money on a set of projectors, Tony can get you a nice set of DEPO stock aftermarket housings that are probably about as good as you can get and are not a nightmare to work with I would figure in some time to solder in some connections here and there to really fit the harness to the radiator support. I rarely find aftermarket parts fit really exactly perfectly and fitting the parts to actually fit properly is just part of making for a good installation.

In the pictures there are a couple holes in the radiator support that are great for mounting the ballasts- I just opened up one of the holes a couple sizes to use a bigger zip tie. One way to make sure the ballasts stay where you want them is just put some double sided 3M tape along with the zip tie and you are good and secure. After installed and adjusted to some interweb instructions I was never "brighted" while the low beams were on when on the road. Another tip is use the proper sized "#" Phillips screwdriver because the adjuster screws will strip out very easily if not.

Headlight pics are as follows
-low beams
-high beams
-high beams with off road lights

[VintageIronFab]

**New Autolight APP 25 plugs-- its amazing how OE plugs look on a 180K engine. Just blows me away how these later model SEFI engines may have inherent rear main seal and oil pan issues the internals are just so much better than their older carbed counterparts. No signs at all of head gasket, blow-by, detonation or fouling of any kind at 180K!! Its just glorious!!!

[tcm glx]

Damn!! Way to catch up on your posts.......thanks for the kudos on the HEadlights...glad you like em.

[VintageIronFab]

One more thing-- while at KOH 2015 I was able to get my front FOA 2.5's revalved by Geoff from Giant, Really a big difference in how the truck handled afterward. Much less floaty and after really hammering on some rough spots the control was so much better than before! He thought the rears could use just a little more compression but after watching me make a couple passes. In his opinion the difference was pretty dramatic in the amount of control that was gained.

[VintageIronFab]

Long time from doing much to the old gal. The 9” saga begins today....

[biggiek]

Nice I got some money I can contribute to that 9"....

[VintageIronFab]

Starting to barely get stuff done on the 9”/ 64” spring swap. Just as an FYI the Richer Racing parts have fit up extremely well unlike the garbage from the other 64” kit brand. The 9” is going to be a nodular 3.250 case, 31 spline Detroit and 4.88 gears. Prob going to put my explorer rear discs on from my F150 and sexy up the rear brakes on the F1.

[Needles929]

NICE!

[VintageIronFab]

Getting closer on the 9” /64” swap!

[t8erbug]

Good work here.