GoFastBroncos.com

Good words. Be thankful for what's been given.

Money comes and goes... Broncos are forever!

Jack front wheels off the ground and grab them at 3 and 6 and give it a good shake while someone is holding onto your steering wheel. This should give you a good idea of where your death wobble is coming from. My gear box was worn making the truck get really bad wobble.

Okay thank you, unfortunately the bronco didn't make it out for thanksgiving weekend, auto parts store sold me the wrong rotors and it was to late to get anything else in so today after work I'll see if I can get the brakes done, and I'll give my wheels a shake and see if I see if anything looks worn out. I'll post up whatever it ends up being!

Can't seem to catch a break on this brakes - haha but really I can't. Got the correct rotors in and everything was going smoothly after work yesterday, hubs actually fit like they were supposed to. Got my brake pads in and calipers on, was tightening the calipers then going to throw on the wheels and test it out, and the last freaking caliper bolt snapped, I was using a wrench and hadn't even gotten it that tight so I didn't over tighten it but I was just like common are you serious? The never ending brake job for my bronco haha. Picking up 4 new caliper bolts on the way home and hopefully I get to drive it tonight

Day 1001 on my brakes lol actually it's seriously been a week in total. But I got the bolt for my caliper, wrapped it all up just went for a test drive and probably about 15 times I went 55 and hit my brakes which is what would cause it before and I didn't get the slightest shake in the steering wheel so either it's hiding to make me think I fixed it orrrrr I fixed it haha.

Who's a good low cost hid kit company for the bronco? Plug and play kit would be nice but not necessary

For factory headlight conversion? Or to convert offroad aux lights? Hit up tcmglx his tony. He'll get you what you need.

X2 on Tony's HID conversion headlights!!

Tony yes.

Yeah, That guys Tony! HA....

Tanner, send you a PM, will have a used projector setup available in a week or two. Would probably be a killer deal.

Yeah that was a dumb question I can't believe I forgot about him. Thanks guys

Cs_drums told me about the ruff stuff crate 9" FF comes with everything except 3rd member and axles for $2300

Does anyone have any experience with the company? What's your opinion on quality.
Its a lot cheaper than say a Currie FF
Price is 4500 compared to 7000 or so

But I don't want to spend 4500 on something that will break either.

I don't have their complete axle but I used their truss and spring perches and plates. It is crazy heavy duty stuff, the truss is 11 gauge, so like .135 a little better than the 1/8 stuff that's out there. And the perches are beef. And spring plates are like 3/8". Overall happy with the quality of the parts I bought.

There stuff looks pretty nice, I'm sure it's not as high quality as Currie but hey i don't have a trophy truck lol. They are telling me that it would be about 5k all said and done for a complete full Floater. That's housing truss 3rd member with a Detroit locker chromoly axles the hubs rotor and calipers.

That's not to insane.

I'm thinking of going 72" wms to wms. So that's 3.5" wider per side?
And I think when I get the cash to do this, I'm going to move my bypasses outside the frame rails as well. Because I alread currently hate how far in they are on the rear end and now with it 3.5" per side wider I would hate it even more.



I'll be pretty excited to one have 35 spline axles and two have a wider rear end that actually fills out my glass, plus I will get rid of the spacers I have on the current rear end because those bug me lol.

Sounds like a good plan. I don't remember if I said it during our text convo but I'm pretty sure the FF adds quite a bit of width. You could probably add the spindles and hubs to your already built housing and gain the width your looking for. Every time I think about building a new rear I remember all the time it takes redoing perches, shock mounts, limit tabs, and plumbing it. That's when I decide I'd rather convert my current one.

Maybe call solid industries and figure out the distance from housing tube to wheel mount surface.

Okay I will! Thanks for all the help and info, started a piggy bank for the rear end I'm at $0.01
Lol I'm hoping that before the end of the year to have it all figured out and done.

Is a picture of the solid industries d60 full float setup. Csdrums is right, the full float spindle and hub set up to add considerable with to an axle. I'm not sure if the mounting width addition is the same on a 14 bolt setup, which would be the cheaper option. But, you get the idea

Take into fact that the solid industry hubs take 2.5" away from a stock hub. If you go to a 8 lug stock hub you can get another couple inches.

I really think if I was going to go ahead and put the money into my rear end by getting the FF conversion
New axles
New locker, new gears, because they a re 31 spline currently and I'd want 35,
So if I was going to spend let's say $2,000 on converting my current rear end
That I would honestly just buy their whole FF.
They said 5k for everything, and I could get maybe 1,000 for my setup or so, so that will offset the price a little.

Just for shits and giggles I asked solo what linking the truck would cost. But that's in my dreams