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I need some shock tuning guidance. I have no experience tuning shocks and I'll be going out for a trip over thanksgiving and I'd like to try and get my rear bypasses working good.
solo got my rear 3 tube bypasses valved to what they said would work with my setup but I know tuning the shocks makes a world of difference
So the issue is say I come into a decent size whoop or a small g out, the truck bucks off the first whoop.
Like as soon as the rear wheels hit the whoop I feel the rear end come way up in the air.

Currently the short tube and long tube are 1 and a half turns out from fully closed. And I need to check where the rebound is at. I also read if the front end is soft that when I hit the whoop the front end is still squatted down which makes the rear end light and it gets kicked up when it hits the whoop.


I plan on finding a testing spot and having someone film me so we can see what it's doing but I'd like to hear any suggestions you guys have.
By the way I have fox 2.5" 3 tube and solos shackles and Q80s

Start turning out your second tube. If it's only 1.5 turns out then go to 4 or 5. If it gets too soft then start going back in but if it's still stiff then out more. Making a big adjustment up front makes adjusting easier I feel. It would take a lot of test runs only turning 1/2 to 1 turn at a time.

Okay, do you think it could have to do with my front end? My front end feels great so I literally have never touched it.
I do still hit my bump stops up front on my little course by my house so I looked and my compression and rebound tubes up front were completely backed out so all the way soft and slow rebound. I went about half way and did a little run and didn't notice much difference.
I need to get someone out to video my bronco at the desert so I can watch it and see what it does.

the truck never bucks when I land from a jump or something it's only off the face of a good since whoop or a small G out the rear will kick up pretty rough.

Like I said the rear suspension is nearly fully turned in on the compression tubes

If it was to stiff could it be causing the kick on the face of the whoops?

If the rebound is too slow, the wheels won't drop out quick enough in the holes, giving the sensation that the compression is too soft. That will often cause bucking. Try adjusting the rebound bypass out a few turns. Set the first compression bypass at 4 and the upper at 2.5-3 and try. Big moves first. How much pressure are you running?

So to make sure I'm not confused on the rebound tube.
Screwing the bolt in would make my rebound faster or slower?

Slower

Oh crap Hahahaha wow I am totally backwards I though screwing it in makes it faster....
Well currently my rebound is as slow as it can go Hahahaha.

Now how about compression tubes? Does turning the bolt in make it slower or faster

Tighten the threads make the bypass flow less. The threads are basically a stop for how much the valve will open. When the valve opens the shock oil bypasses the piston valving making it flow more. So the more you back it off the more you let the oil bypass the valving the softer/fast it will be.

I see, so on my rebound tube if I want the rebound speed faster I back the bolt out.
And the compression tubes if I want it stiffer I tighten it?



Another thing I was curious of, when you tighten the bolt it eventually hits it's stopping point, now when I'm backing the bolt out is there a stopping point or will it just back all the way out?

There's a stopping point so you can loosen all the way. You would have to unscrew the big anodized nut to completely remove the bypass valve

Post pictures of your tube layout. 3 tube bypasses should be 2 comp 1 rebound. If you are getting into your bump zone close that tube and open 1 full turn from closed that tube it will be the tube staged at the top of the shock. As far as rebound goes you don't want your rear end hanging up (packing) but being leaf springs they pack a lot of energy. With that said opening rebound up can allow the bucking effect more then you may see with 4 link due to the leverage. I would recommend closing your front compression a little to cause the front end pop affect. So the front of the Bronco wont fall into holes it will carry the front end and cause the rear to follow. post a video so we can see what its doing and try to help guide you a little better.

I need some help! Unfortunately looks like the bronco won't be making it this weekend.



I rotated my wheels and then I went driving and got death wobble. It's pretty bad so I thought okay tires are out of balance
Nope still death wobble
Then I thought okay maybe my tires wore weird and they didn't like being rotated
So I re rotated them back to how it was before and it still gave me the death wobble


Where do I go from here?

Check for tire delamination. Feel with your hand the whole surface of each tire around the contact patch. You may feel a single tire with a bulgy spot. This tire or tires would need to be replaced. I've seen 95% tread tires delaminate after 2 days on new bfg all terreigns.

Also rotate the rear axel while on jack stands checking for a bent axel. This will give the death wobble feel as well.

Are the tie rods in good shape? Any noises?

Have your girl drive back and forth past you while you watch each wheel while she drives by. Look for wobble and or tire hopping.

Do this on a smooth section of street. A bad or blown shock that's out of oil can give the uncle buck effect too. Like a single hopping tire feeling like a death wobble.

What's the caster angle at? Sometimes when it's around 0° it acts like a shopping cart wheel.

Okay thanks guys I'll check on those things Wednesday.
I'm going to say I don't think the rear end is bent simply because I have driven it a ton since the last desert trip and it's been all street miles, tire store said the rims were straight too when I got them balanced.
It's just so coincidental that right after I rotate my tires it does this.


Having work sucks I really want to get the bronco out for this weekend but I have no time to work on it

But how would I check for a bent axle?

Tanner287 wrote:Having work sucks I really want to get the bronco out for this weekend but I have no time to work on it

Let me rephrase that comment for you:

I'm so thankful to have work because it pays for me to have a Bronco, and there are many that have no job or prospect of ever having a Bronco. Though not having enough time to work on the Bronco sucks because I'm so busy at work, I'll not too happily deal with its absence over the Thanksgiving weekend if it doesn't come together. I can do this because I'll be busy with other toys, spending time with family & friends and eating my Thanksgiving dinner giving thanks for all I'm blessed with.

Just saying.....