My 95

[RyanDS650X]

Don't forget to factor in some transmission work in your budget because your stock trans will not be happy for long.

[Tanner287]

That's what I want. I'm not looking to make crazy horse power but I wouldn't mind a little more than stock
And my tranny is not overly happy now, not quite sure if it's some slip in the transfer case because from what I hear there are just some gears or something that get worn out?
If I am sitting at a dead stop and I go into reverse the truck clunks and bumps backwards pretty good, same thing when I go into drive it clunks and bumps foward pretty good.
As far as shifting while I'm driving it shifts great

But with the gt40 heads and a e303 cam is that really going to push my stock tranny?

[birdco85]

Have you checked your Drive shaft with the clunking? Make sure everything is tight.

[Tanner287]

Yes it also clunked before and after I got a new driveshaft with new 1350 yokes as well so that kind of cancels that out

[RyanDS650X]

Depends on your right foot I suppose... if it's already hurt and you throw more power at it you may speed up its death.

[Rmc]

Get under the truck Indian style and grab the drive shaft. With one hand roll the tire back n forth with the other grab the drive shaft. Pay close attention to the yolk but watch mainly for pinion shaft plunge. Many times if a crush sleeve was used vs a solid pinion spacer you can further crush the sleeve by forced rotation from the tires. Basically the tires force inturupted load into the ring gear, ring gear into the pinion and result is loss of pinion preload due to forced inturupted load. Something has to take the brunt of the forced rotation. I say a solid ground pinion spacer is a must (ask me how I know).
As far as the vacuum leak replumb it in silicon. After that all it can be is a few things. Egr valve gummed up with carbon, egr vacuum solenoid or if the cel goes away at high rpm it may be a carbon filled egr tube from the exhaust pipe. It's very common to have the hoses tubes and valve get filled with carbon oily gunk shit.
Another check is to cut up a coke can and make a dead head gasket to cap off the egr port. This should show you if the valve isn't opening. If you have a vacuum pump pull vacuum on the egr valve and see if it stays open, if it does the egr valve is good but the sensor may faulty. Start with the vacuum replumming and erase codes then recheck symptoms.

[Wrightracing.net]

I would say check the rear end also. A worn out gear set can cause symptoms like that. The Horsepower gain from the GT40 heads is only around a 35-40 hp. If the transmission is in good shape, you should be fine. Just having a little HP gain will not hurt the trans, but if you push it to the limit all the time it will. Make sure you have a Transmission temperature guage on the Bronco to keep an eye on it, heat is what will kill the trans most of the time.

[Tanner287]

It's strange though because the symptoms didn't change what so ever from switching from my 8.8 to a 9" with a new driveshaft and new yolks
The truck still does the same exact thing which is why is makes me feel like it's nothing in the rear end

[Rmc]

Did you ever check that flex plate or flywheel or whatever the correct terminology is? I Remember you said you had some type of trans prob a while back

[cs_drums]

So my $.02

Just put a rebuilt stock motor in. Doing anything other than a full build is gonna give minimal gains. Even full smog legal build gives minimal gain with out going stroker.

A stock E4OD has a hard time keeping up with the stock motor with off-road abuse. If you go built motor you'll need built tranny.

Avoid the snowball. Get a nice rebuild, a punisher for the trans and a good cooler.

Big motor = built tranny = built rearend = $$$$$$$

Like every project I take on. Come up with a figure you think it's gonna cost then double it.

[Tanner287]

Last thing in the world I want is a snowball effect. I already want to get a full floater and link it but hey you can dream right? Lol maybe one day.

[Wrightracing.net]

You heard him say it. Fullfloater, link and so it is to late, snow ball already in motion...

[Tanner287]

I'm just dreaming haha. I would absolutely love to though haha

[Tanner287]

But if a nice floater comes up for sale I might have to grab it.
At the minimum for the future For the bronco is I want a full floater, 37s and move my bypasses to outside the frame rails.
I think I'd notice some improvement with that

[Wrightracing.net]

Definitely, My Snow ball started growing many years ago. Fortunately as my pile of parts were growing on the shelf in the garage, I have been able to have fun with the Bronco. Just keep in mind, you can always change stuff in the future. My Bronco has been through many configurations and once again is up for a new life with better parts.

[Tanner287]

Yeah I am happy the bronco is at a point I can go have fun. That's why I just wanted a complete rebuild so it's running solid. And if I can get my hands on a nice 9" in the future than I'll do some upgrading!

Thanks for everyone's help it's great getting all the info and advice from everyone

[Tanner287]

How long for break in before the desert?

[Rmc]

Break in on what the engine?

[Tanner287]

Yes sir!

[Rmc]

When you get the engine the builder usually gives break in instructions. You will need to put a few miles on it change the oil then you can start using it normally. Some builders do a run in at the shop it's built at some do not.