My 95

Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Wed Jun 13, 2018 2:13 pm

Yeah that makes sense, I read a guy saying it took like 10 hours to fully cool in the sand. Don’t know the truth behind that.
Is there an actually optimal temperature to get it at before welding?
Iv read most people turn there bbq on high and throw it on for 45 mins
I’ll be using a real oven so I could get to an actually number if there’s even one that exist or if it’s just about getting some heat into it haha

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Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Wed Jun 13, 2018 2:31 pm

How long would you say the post heat is if I throw it back in the oven to cool?
I could weld it at like 3pm and get it back in the oven to cool until 5pm when I go home.

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ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Jun 13, 2018 3:03 pm

I'd have to read back up on it to get true numbers (temperature), but it's based on the actual material of the casting. Which you'll never find I'm sure. So I'd look up the number for regular cast steel and use that. Typically you want to get a heat indicator marker and heat til it goes off, or get a digital / infrared / pointable thermometer & use that to make sure the metal is up to proper temp.

On non critical stuff I've just heated it a bit with an oxy/acet torch in the past. These knuckles would be a bit more critical though I'd say.

As for the sand - the long cool time does make sense as the burying it in sand just keeps the air from getting to the part and cooling it down rapidly. I'd think if you got a very fine sand that wouldn't let much air in at all it could take a super long time to cool down. It's all just theory to me though as I've never tried it.

ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Jun 13, 2018 3:05 pm

And the 2 hr post heat should do it I would hope. If you have the ability just crank down the temp by maybe 30-50* every 20 minutes maybe? This obviously depends on if you get the full 2 hrs and what temp you start the post heat at.

Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Wed Jun 13, 2018 3:24 pm

I am reading anywhere from 500-1200 don’t exceed 1400.
Maybe do it at 7-800?

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ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Wed Jun 13, 2018 3:43 pm

sounds about like what I would do.

Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Wed Jun 13, 2018 4:26 pm

Well then that’s what I’ll go with.
And I’ll take your advice on throwing it back in the oven and slowly dropping the temp. I’ll give myself the two hours to slowly bring it down

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450xracer68 · Post by **450xracer68** » Wed Jun 13, 2018 8:56 pm

Here is our process at work we use to weld cast. While the cast gears we weld are 4’ to 6’ round a spindle should be no problem. Haha also due to the size of the spindle I don’t see why you couldn’t cut the cool down times to 15 mins.

Depending on the outside temp, our oven gets to 600 to 900*.

Place part in oven and turn on so the oven and part get to heat together. Get all your stuff ready to weld before hand.

Once at your resting temp or max temp. Let it sit for 15 mins. Pull out and begin welding. Our parts are fairly large so it takes a bit for them to come down in temp. It’s even better to have some steel blocks heated to rest the part on.

Once welded, place back in oven. Let it sit at max temp for 30 mins. Every 30 mins, turn the temp down 50 degrees. Once your temp on the oven is at 200*. Cut the gas and let it cool with the oven.

This is the slow way to do it but we have not had a weld or fatigue failure in over 10 years.(Knock on wood)

There is also a field way. Someone above already wrote it. It involves heat pen, torch, welder and a good prayer. We have done both ways with good luck. It’s up to you.

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Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:45 am

Sounds like a great plan to me! I will follow that same procedure.

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Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Fri Jun 15, 2018 6:35 am

Well kinda bummed, Robert suggest to use a er312 rod so I had ordered that first of the week, was supposed to be here Thursday and it wasn’t. Tracking hasn’t updated so I don’t know if it even will be here today.
Any other rods I can use to do this with? No one around me had the 312 in stock

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ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:30 am

With a casting I believe the point is to get a rod with a high content of nickel. I have heard in the past that the chromolly rod has almost as much nickel as the "super missile rod" or whatever the slang term for the high nickel rod was. It's bee a LONG while since I read up on any of this, so definitely do a little reading/researching to confirm, but if this is true the rod for chromolly should be much easier to source.

Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Sun Jun 17, 2018 8:41 pm

Well... had a slight set back...
Put my part in the oven at work which is rated for 700 but our safety guy doesn’t want it taken over 500. So he put a label on the side of the oven do not exceed 500. All good I had the person in charge of the department with the oven put my parts in and he put it to 499 and I walked away.
Checked on it periodically and last I checked it hit 450.
5 mintes later I hear him yelling we have a problem so I go running over and an insane amount of water is gushing from the doors of the oven. Luckily there was a large drain next to the oven so he and myself start brooming the water into the drain while my other busy looks for a shutoff. Can’t find one so he calls security and they come and can’t find a shutoff, they call the fire department and at this point I notice the drain isn’t draining and is almost full, by the time the fire department gets there the drain is full and is overflowing and I’m freaking out thinking we are going to flood the shop. It was like a fire hydrant was broken inside the oven.
They get a hose in the drain and start pumping all the water outside. So long story short what happened is we moved buildings a few years ago and havn’t used the oven since. Whoever setup the building only installed a 360 sprinkler inside the oven so it bursted.
Problem is this was Saturday and my parts, don’t know what kind of trouble I’ll be in until tomorrow.
And my knuckles went from 450 plus to getting ice cold water on them.

Oh and in addition to the fire department coming we had to have an outside company come replace the sprinkler head and Re pump the entire sprinkler system. Which is why so much water came out, the head broke and it drained the entire system there is no shutoff, once a head is broken the entire system drains

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ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Mon Jun 18, 2018 9:58 am

Holy crap! So sorry all that nonsense came out of what should have been an easy deal.

Hopefully you won't get reamed too bad for the mess! Do you guys never go over 360* in the oven for work stuff? Hopefully the 360* sprinkler & the backed up drain won't be held against you as those were out of your hands!

Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Mon Jun 18, 2018 12:17 pm

Yeah in the old building they would take the oven to 600* just havn’t used it in the new building and I was lucky enough to be the one who used it first.

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cs_drums · Post by **cs_drums** » Wed Jun 20, 2018 6:34 am

I don’t see how they can hold you to accountable. That was going to happen at some point.

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450xracer68 · Post by **450xracer68** » Wed Jun 20, 2018 4:57 pm

Damn that sucks! Hopefully it will just blow over.

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Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 3:08 pm

Yeah main boss is pissed. Told me this is a “fireable offense and any cost from this could be pushed to me”
I told my manager what he said and she went and spoke to him and came back and told me don’t worry about anything he said it’s done and over you did nothing wrong.
I told her if I’m expected to pay for the fire department and the re pumping of the water they can kiss my ass goodbye and fire me because I’m not paying for any of it. Which she said don’t worry your not paying for anything it wasn’t your fault.

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ChaseTruck754 · Post by **ChaseTruck754** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 8:18 pm

Good to hear you won't get any grief from it. Like cs_drums said, it was going to happen at some point. You were just the unlucky one that it happened to.

Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:50 pm

Yep good times!!! Hahaha got another set of knuckles from dtbback and Solo is going to double sheer them for me. Iv had enough fun with the knuckles and just want the steering done lol

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Tanner287 · Post by **Tanner287** » Mon Jul 02, 2018 5:38 am

So steering went pretty good this weekend. Everything is cycled and super happy but what sucks is the knuckles that Solo gave me were for a 93 and have the slide pin style mount for the caliper were my 95 have the bolt on calipers. New calipers will be $50 so not a big deal.
But what worries me is the rotors have different part numbers. Same overal diameter but I’m worried the offset on the rotors are different. My buddies ranger with d44 ends has the pin style caliper and his rotor looks to be in the same placement as mine so hopefully I’m okay Also hoping I don’t run into stupid things like the brake lines being different or something dumb. The knuckles have been a nightmare.

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