GoFastBroncos.com

Not so much as a "build" but a place to ask all my little questions that don't warrant their own thread and document my mistakes.

I traded a pair of seadoo's for this thing aprx 3mo ago. It was nasty. Looked like it was stored with the top off under a walnut tree. Everything that was in arms reach of the driver was broken. Outside mirrror, rearview mirror, armrests, gauge bezel, shifter trim, door handle missing. Passenger glass was smashed. The everything was leaking. Brake caliper bolts where stripped out. everything was covered in mud/clay(used in the salton sea area=naaaasty mud) A/C didn't work. Radio didn't work. headliners torn and sagging. Abs light on (thinking a abs tone wheel missing from a brake job)

So on to the good. It's a 96 w/ maf so cams and go fast goodies should work well on it. This also turned out to be a downer now knowing that with the obd system smog laws aren't as forgiving and there are very few go fast goodies marketed for it because it's the only year of the obd bronco.

So... I threw a couple hundred bucks of parts at it. Tore out the rear carpet. Put in a ham radio and went to mexico for the thousand! It was a learning experience to say the least. The list of things I thought it needed doubled but I forgot the first half from all the exhaust fumes I huffed on the trip so what was I saying....

While leaving Ensenada I topped off at a pmex and told the dude to top it off. After topping it off the 3rd or 4th time I was getting concerned. Found out the top of the tank was leaking fuel.LOL Added to the list and drove with the windows down for the next 80 or so miles. Got home and found the evap hose pulled off but I think there's more to this. Still got bad fumes after filling up and haven't been brave enough to top off and have a fuel spill in the states Need to hook up a smoke machine and see where the leak is coming from. There are signs of the tank being out. One of witch is the axle vent being pulled off and coming out of the back of the tank LOL I made one before going down to mex. Didn't dream of finding the stock one ever....

I serviced the rear end when I got back and found a ring and pinion in great shape but... the spider gears looked hammered. I'm thinking a rear end let go in the past and just the minimum was done to repair it. I threw a magnet in there, sealed it back up and put a bunch of lucas honey in it hoping it'll last for a good while. This helped me to decide on building a 9" with a detroit on the bench while the 8.8 is still under the truck.

For the most part I was very happy with what the bronco did in stock form. I do want to improve on it but was so pleased with what it did in stock form suspension has been pushed lower on the list of priority for now.

Besides fixing the broken stuff and repeatedly cleaning I haven't done to much yet. The plan is good travel with out glass. I'm not sure if it'll stick though. The cost difference between c/t vs c/e 2" to c/e 4" seems to be the cost of glass and sleeving axles. I do want to avoid building the front so gnarly that the rear track width is obviously narrower and I really don't want to go further than leaves w/track bars keeping the shocks underneath. What do you guys think is a good match for a correctly set up leaf sprung rear end?



Go fast goodies that are soon to be going on:
Edelbrock performance intake manifold (thanks for the link TCM GLX)
Punisher valve body
Derale pan
2 mongo big plate coolers

What I'm looking for when funds allow:
smog legal aluminum heads
Performance y-pipe (probably the next mod due to fumage)
msd ignition module
headers

Seabass wrote: Besides fixing the broken stuff and repeatedly cleaning I haven't done to much yet. The plan is good travel with out glass. I'm not sure if it'll stick though. The cost difference between c/t vs c/e 2" to c/e 4" seems to be the cost of glass and sleeving axles. I do want to avoid building the front so gnarly that the rear track width is obviously narrower and I really don't want to go further than leaves w/track bars keeping the shocks underneath. What do you guys think is a good match for a correctly set up leaf sprung rear end?

Edelbrock performance intake manifold (thanks for the link TCM GLX)

Im a big fan of the way Brians look, with 2" C/E front... but he has a little extra width I believe in the rear to match! If your not gonna pony up for Glass all around, and a wider rear axle, I would say stay stock width. 16-17" of travel all around is plenty to get you moving really fast!

BTW, cool on the manifold, glad a GFB'er got it.

Hey Seabass,

I'm selling a Bronco tank, sending unit and skid plate. Let me know if you're interested.

Chris

Once I hook the smoke machine up and figure out what the leak is I'll let you know. If it's just the sending unit gasket I'll probably just fix it. I'll keep you in mind though, thanks.

If you're leaking from the evaporated hose it may be the roll over valve. They have em at ford and make sure you get the grommet. Also check the gasket at the fuel pump.

Thanks HTO, Ill check it out when I drop the tank.

Chasing an MIL now as well. Different EGR codes. Tested the EGR solenoid and found it to be bad. Replaced it and now I believe I need a differential pressure sensor as well.

Motor mounts and valve body should be in tomorrow

Mounts came in, still waiting on the vb. Cutting it to close to get it together for KOH. At least I'll have plenty to do when I get back.

More bad news. My new drivers rear view mirror lasted all of about 2 door closures before breaking again in the exact same spot... Shitty pot metal made in taiwan dookey I've driven this thing more with the door panel off than with it on.

Update: I resealed the oil pan and installed JBG motor mounts, installed the punisher VB and a derale mega deep trans pan w/ over 4 gallons of ATF!

While cleaning the pan surfaces I saw heavy crosshatching on the cylinder walls. Maybe this thing has been rebuilt recently*crosses fingers*

The rear main seal and the front timing cover is leaking.... Besides pulling the trans any thing I should know about changing the rear main? Or is it just a normal lip seal. Anything else I should do w/ the trans out?

Hey guys I'm dropping the gas tank to replace the lock ring and o-ring tomorrow. Is there any mods or maintenece checks I should do while the tank is out?

make sure the hose the goes into the tank from he house does not get torn.

Ask me how i know....

Watch the roll over valve and since you got the tank dropped cut an access panel. Its really easy and you'll never have to drop the tank to do a pump rollover valve etc. Again. I dropped my tank 4to times and cut one and never had to do it again.

Great idea!, glad that weather and work stopped me till I heard about that. Any pictures of yours? How does it seal up? My junk is already a gas chamber I don't wanna make it worse.

What do you guys think about using a 8" deck plate like this? or maybe a square one to make dealing witht the corigated floor easier. There is a ship dismantling place near chasetruck's shop. I'll have to hit it up next week and see what I can scrounge up.

I don't have a pic on hand but I just cut a square out big enough to get the fuel pump and roll over valve out. Just weld in some flat plate around the edges of the holeuse either dzus tabs or sheet metal screws for holding it in place and lay some peel and stick weather strip from autozone and call it a day. Some guys put a piano hinge on one side so it swivels open.

I like the deck plate idea (and minneys!) but even at 8" it still could be tight to work in. Personally I'd try & get a piece of stock floor (I gave pieces to 3 or 4 guys here from my last chop up) & then cut a 12" x 12" or so hole in your floor. Take the donor piece of floor & cut it to 13x13 or 14x14 or so & make it sit on top of the factory floor (1-2" overhang at all edges this way) & mount with dzus tabs. Run a bead of silicone around the overlap area to seal the thing from fumes.

I picked up a square deck hatch that I think will look pretty slick. If it all goes to shit I'll cut out a square and go with the method you mentioned Chasetruck.

On another note I think I may have FINALLY found the source of my miss/stall issue. I think my PIP sensor in the distributor in on it's way to shitting the bed. I'm gonna get a reman distributor and cross my fingers.

New toys installed.

looks bitchin man!!!!!!!

Where's the mount pics ?? Looks great