Utah BroncoSpeed

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:02 pm

Got the front end resting on the springs...and the driver's side tire mounted up. Leveled the rear end to ride height, and this is what I have to deal with.

See the detailed photos below...

So, do I have to now spring for fiberglass? Or can I get by with what I have? Honestly, I had budgeted for a rear 8.8 disk brake kit, but with things so tight now in the front wheels wells, I may have to divert those funds for some Autofab "Ashley Style" F&R glass.

Note that the front bumper is going by the way of the dumpster, so the front side will clear...but underneath? And the trailing section of front wheel well? The upper lip (apex) of the wheel well (where the inner liner bolts in?)

Also, I will be having my fabricators prepare some sort of plating structure to prevent the A/C evaporator from getting whacked by the tire.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Just get it and be done with it?

[Note that I made the decision shortly after this...and after some good feedback from all you guys (see following posts...) to keep the stock steel fenders and deal with the clearance issues at some future point...]

Fender pictures...

: Bronco Fab Set 7 - 9-4-2009 (7).JPG (125.89 KiB) Viewed 1042 times

: Bronco Fab Set 7 - 9-4-2009 (8).JPG (95.74 KiB) Viewed 1042 times

: Bronco Fab Set 7 - 9-4-2009 (10).JPG (148.11 KiB) Viewed 1042 times

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:08 pm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brokenbronco...
You could also do a little creative fender trimming like the bfg bronco.

Frankly BB, I think that trim work looks perfect to me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCM GLX ...
It looks great sitting at ride height.. what springs are you running (too lazy to go back and read through it all....) Here are my suggestions. It looks like you still have not aligned it, I would do that first, because that can definitely change height, angles, etc etc etc... then, take a look and check for clearances. Many of us are running 35's with a 4-5" Lift, and stock fenders, so I would assume you should be able to do the same. You would likely need to trim the front bumper a bit and loose the lower spoiler, but I do not think you need to jump the gun to get the fiberglass yet. Just my two cents..

I'm using Autofab's Skyjacker brand springs that John supplies with his 16" travel dual 2.5" shock system (http://www.autofab.com/16lift.htm)

And no, I didn't order John's jack screws to adjust the F ride height.

Roger on the alignment (and then check for clearance.) And the front bumper is going away anyway...to be replaced with a full tubular prerunner bar/light bar/brush plate similar to Image 1 below (don't know who you are, but your front prerunner bumper is exactly what I want on my '96.) Also note the trimming of his wheel well fender just behind the front wheel, as per BB's suggestion above...

Appreciate the feedback! Frankly, that was exactly my thinking up until I saw the truck last Friday...and then had doubts. So I thought I would ask you guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda...
Keep the stock fenders. You can trim the bumper and fenders. Even have a body shop do a small flare job. The truck will look much better than swapping to glass fenders. 90% of the trucks with glass look like crap.

Thanks mda! You, BrokenBronco, and TCM GLX all convinced me to keep the stock stuff. The small flaring and trimming of the rear lower fender profile seem a helluva lot easier than messin' with glass, rattles, fit-n-finish, vibration, paint work, and $1250 for the glass (not to mention the tubular frame John sells to mount the F glass...) Rather spend that on the rear disk brake kit and other misc. goodies...

Thanks all!

: Black Bronco with Lightbar.jpg (113.75 KiB) Viewed 1042 times

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:13 pm

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Kennedy...
Here's another link:
http://www.bilsteinus.com/Wce51e424cba55.htm

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Kennedy...
Here is the original photo link to Jeff Cummings' Bronco:

Thanks, David. I just love that front light bar on that BFG Bronco...and the fact that he isn't using fiberglass (as far as I can tell.) Appreciate the pictures and links! P.S.: Did the cactus or the Bronco win?

Quote:
Originally Posted by damon1272...
Hello, been lurking for some time checking out the builds. Very nice truck you are putting together. I have very similar plans for my '94. If you are looking for more pics on the BFG Bronco that was built for Dan Newsome I would contact Jeremy at Spirson (site won't come up) or Steve @ Spirit Racing as they are the ones that built the truck http://www.spiritracing.com/

I rode in the BFG truck when it was first built and that is what made me want to build a similar truck myself.

Thanks Damon. I am well aware of Spirson and Spirit both. I was looking into their systems (along with Camburg) before I made the decision to go all in with Autofab. Good luck with your '94. If you want to see my master set of project plans, PM me and I will send them to your e-mail account.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDS650X...
Any updates on this build? Looks like its coming along nicely!

Thanks Ryan. I GUESS things are coming along well...but I've been out of country for 3 weeks now... Sitting on my ass here in Prague, CZ supporting an enterprise software system go-live for one of our European clients. I suspect (hope?) the rear is all in by now (nicely trussed) and the roll cage is being fabbed up as of this e-mail.

Once I hear from my fabricators, I will add some pics and provide a more meaty update. Sorry for the delay, but I've been buried since arriving in Warsaw on the 12th of last month. Ugh.

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:20 pm

After a bit of a work stoppage due to 'real' day-jobs and overseas travel, work has resumed on my '96:

1. Engine Compartment: Everything is going back into the engine compartment now, including all of the crap that had to be moved or repositioned for the Autofab shock hoops and cross bar. We had to remount or relocate the vacuum reservoir, air pump filter/muffler, battery tray, and misc. relays and fuse blocks. Not to drastic...just some creative redecorating.

2. New Advanced Air Cleaner Systems Cyclonic Air Cleaner: The secondary fabricator and shop owner had a brand new-in-the-box paper element filter just lying around, so I purchased it for the Bronco. Would have had to relocate and mount the OEM filter box anyway, so I decided to step up to this cyclonic unit. It will be mounted inboard of the driver side shock hoop, adjacent to and above the driver's side valve cover. The challenge will be to place the MAF sensor in a position that won't jack up the emissions and give me a CEL. According to a contact we have at Cobb Tuning, moving the MAF closer to the throttle body is OK, but away from it is a no-no.

3. Wheel-wells: The primary fabricator also got the wheel-well liners back into place. Nice clean fit, with a little more trimming around the shock bodies still required.

4. Rear 8.8 Axle: The secondary fabricator just put together the rear 4.56:1 r&p and the new Eaton Detroit Truetrac diff. He'll also truss it over the top, axle tube to axle tube (yes, us "kids and our trusses!")

5. E4OD Deep Pan: Purchased a new E4OD pan from PATC in Bossier City, Louisiana. It's a PML brand (http://www.yourcovers.com) deep aluminum pan for the E4OD, purchased from http://www.partshp.com/Pans.htm for $220.00. It adds another 3.5 quarts of ATF. I wanted this on the transmission before it was all buttoned up. It required the radius arm rear mount x-member to be removed and re-fabricated...as the new deep pan made contact with the Autofab x-tube. Oh well...I tried to find the pan that had the most amount of room there at the back slope, but I missed it by that much!

Next steps:

Finish the rear suspension (install axle, Autofab leafs, links, shocks, etc)
Get it on all fours (woo-hoo!)
Get the brake lines hooked up and bled
Install the front shock tower brace
Get the engine started and Utah safety and emission inspected (by the end of the month!)
Safety cage fab & install
Locate and install Mastercraft seats x 4
F&R prerunner bumpers fab & install
Mount & wire front Hella 4000 (2) & 500 (2) lamps

: Bronco Fab Set 8 - 11-7-09 (5).JPG (129.01 KiB) Viewed 1040 times

: Bronco Fab Set 8 - 11-7-09 (7).JPG (125.11 KiB) Viewed 1040 times

: Bronco Fab Set 8 - 11-7-09 (3).JPG (114.02 KiB) Viewed 1040 times

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:22 pm

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCM GLX...
Looking really good.

Thanks for the link on the Auto Tranny pan..... that looks like a good deal!

You bet. I did my homework on finding 'just the right pan' (at least for my Bronco) Not too deep, and one that had a shallow (or angled) trailing end (to better clear the Autofab x-member). So I came up with this PML pan. Best price I could find was at PATC Transmissions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damon1272...
Nice build. Keep the updates coming. You should really like the true trac. Worlds better than the factory unit.

Yes, there was a lot to choose from, and over the years, the Truetrac just kept rising to the top of the list. I have to deal with snow here in Salt Lake City, and from what I've read, the TT will serve me well, especially if I keep it in 2WD most of the time.

Thanks for the kind words...

More later...

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:26 pm

Had to get some new shackles for the Autofab leafs. The OEM ones we just took off were pretty corroded, and after a little bead blasting, were found to be heavily pitted. God only know what condition the bushing itself was in...

Purchased two new Ford OEM shackles, #EOTZ-5776-A, at $43.21 ea...

Fabricators will be doubling/reinforcing the leaf-end bolt boss, and boxing-in the open section. <-- Actually, John at Autofab said there is no reason to mess with reinforcing the OEM Ford shackles...just install them as-is...so we did.

This new Ford part seems to be powder-coated from the factory, too.

BTW...did anyone have any good retail sources for a pair of Hella 4000s (Euro beams, #H12560021, with a harness/relay?)

: Leaf Spring Shackles - EOTZ-5776-A.jpg (64.17 KiB) Viewed 1041 times

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:30 pm

The 8.8 center section is assembled. My fabricator had some issues setting up the Yukon 4.56 r&p. He said he must have spent at least eight hours going back and forth with the 8.8. The weird thing is the front Dana 44 Yukon r&p went together without an issue and set up quickly...but the rear was a PITA.

Got the FMS diff cover on, too.

You can see the 'cardboard truss' in position on the top of the housing. He said if I can keep it dry, it should last a long time. Said he would use some extra duct tape on it too...just in case.

Brought the new shackles to the shop today. This should allow them to have the rear axle in and bolted down, trailing arms installed, and the new lower Autofab shock tabs welded in place by the weekend.

: Bronco Fab Set 9 - 11-12-09 (4).JPG (99.13 KiB) Viewed 1041 times

: Bronco Fab Set 9 - 11-12-09 (5).JPG (99.63 KiB) Viewed 1041 times

: Bronco Fab Set 9 - 11-12-09 (6).JPG (113.97 KiB) Viewed 1041 times

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:35 pm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatdyisit...
Looking good. I like that cover. Why did you go with a stock length shackle instead of getting some extended ones from Autofab or some other source? From what I hear they make a huge difference over stock.

Do you have any pictures of the Autofab lowers shock mounts? Are they more than just some tabs?

Ummm, good question. I figured if John felt that I needed alternative shackles, I would have hoped he would have said something back in March when I ordered the kit. Also, my fabricators called him recently and I believe he told them to go stock length shackles with this 18" travel kit. And frankly, I didn't want any ride height change with a longer shackle. So...

The lower R shock mounts are still in the plastic baggie that John sent with the kit (saw them today...), so I will have to get a shot of them once installed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda...
1 or 2 inch longer shackles don't make much difference in ride height but it does give the spring more room to flatten out and droop.

mda...OK, good point. I think I remember seeing a thread on this previously. Your feedback was the same point made there (IIRC.) I'll have to take a look at this for Phase II of the project. Thanks for the suggestion. Will have to give John a call here after the holidays and chat about this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by yikes...
You may have already thought of this, but here's a heads-up on the 8.8: The axle tubes are rather thin and don't like pounding the whoops. The spring perches will crush and deform the tubes on hard hits. I would suggest welding gussets at both ends to spread the load around the tube. The truss, as I see it in the picture will help, but I would suggest extending it all the way out to the perches and adding metal from the outboard side of the perch toward the tube end as well. It will take some creativity for the bump pads, but it's worth it in the end. You're already heavy into it and the extra effort will pay off big when you oops! and take a bone-crushing hit to the rear.

Yikes...great info. Thanks. I knew that the 8.8 wasn't the strongest rear end available, but was unaware of the axle tubes being an issue themselves. I will forward your comments to my fabricators and discuss with them in detail afterwards. The spring perch reinforcement is probably a great starting point. Thanks for the suggestions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sydude...
Awesome work, keep it up. My truss (boys and their trusses...) are very similar. I thought about doing the Ford Racing diff cover, but I was worried about breaking it off-road, so I got a Solid cover. Looking at yours, which is really nice, I may have to kick myself a bit!

sydude...I saw the Solid covers too (Riddler, RuffStuff, etc.), but none of those HD covers provided main cap support like the FMS (and other 'girdle' supports from T/A, Granatelli, etc.) And the FMS unit looked to be the most heavy duty of all that could view on-line. It was also the most expensive. Hopefully money well spent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG...
I run stock shackles on mine too. They work fine and are CHEAP! As for the spring perches, I think if you boxed the open sections they'd be plenty strong. Axle-wrap is generally what kills those and your 2-link kit will take care of most of that.

Looking good, Brad!

Steve...thanks for the feedback on the stock shackles. As I mentioned above, I'll see how these pan out until Phase II (...or maybe until the next time I speak to John E.) Autofab claims 18" of travel (with the two 2.5" S-A-Ws), and for now, as a newbie to all of this, I think that will do me just fine for now.

Got it on the boxing-in of the perches. I'll still forward both Yikes' and your comments to my guys, and see what they can do.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q1: What about the union of the axle tube to the third member housing? I know one is steel, and the other is cast iron...but is there any rationale (or approach/method) to reinforce that joint? (I noticed there is some seepage from this area, so I thought I would ask...)

Q2: U-bolts: Are the stock Ford u-bolts good for broncospeed use? The OEM units are pretty clean and in good shape, but I thought I would ask anyway.

Observation: REALLY glad I purchased a set of 6 new spring-eye/shackle bolts! The OEM units were similar in condition to the shackles...corroded, pitted, and necked-down (bought NOS Ford bolts to replace the old ones...$$$well spent!)

Thanks to all for your feedback!

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:44 pm

Making progress...

Rear Suspension: The 8.8 is mounted and all bolted up. Trailing arms are attached and the lower 12" SAW shock mounts are attached to the axle. All that remains is hassle of plumbing in the new rear brake lines and fittings. SAW reservoirs are being mounted up under as well.
Exhaust: The guys had to sacrifice the rear section of the Magnaflow exhaust for the sake of the leaf spring installation. Will probably have to have them cannibalize the tubing and route it out back between the RR shackle and gas tank...exiting at the rear of the truck. We'll see how this turns out...
Front Suspension: Is in and ready...except the Autofab cross bar. Awaiting the final positioning of the Advanced Air Cleaner Systems filter housing...below
Air Cleaner Housing: Trying to get this into 'just the right spot' between the engine and the drivers' side shock hoop. Then get the MAF sensor between it and the tubing leading to the throttle body.
Leaking SAW 16" Shocks: I now have two leaking 16" SAWs...the ones that mount to the front of the TTB (both sides.) My fabricators say they sometimes ooze fluid near the seals since what was there captured during assembly (between the seals, wipers, and bushing) will often leak out. Once it empties out, it should stop...but we will know for sure when the reservoirs get charged with Nitrogen. See pic...
Lug Nuts: Mocked up the new HD lug nuts on one of the wheels...just to see what they look like. These are open ended with the conical flare on the business end to properly mate up with the OEM seat. Hollander 611-171 (see box pics...) Got rid of the chromies.

Now I'm facing a Utah State emission and safety inspection...due at the end of the month. I hope everything goes back together and I don't see a CEL. Nothing has been been removed in the engine compartment...just 'repositioned' (like the MAF.) Shouldn't be an issue...I hope (timing is everything, right?)

Any suggestions on this?
---------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG...
As long as they know what they're doing, welding to the cast center section won't be a problem. I have an 8.8 with a full-length truss and 3-link mounts that saw a lot of use (with no problems) before I bought it.

Steve: Thanks...and as you probably noticed from the pics, the fabricators have not welded in the rear 8.8 truss yet. They wanted to get the axle positioned, and all lines and mounts into position before they got anything welded up. The new truss will go in once that is all buttoned up...and as you suggested, I hope they tie in the truss arch to the cast iron section. As good as my welder is, this shouldn't be a problem (like you said...)

Thanks all...

8.8 in place...

: Bronco Fab Set 10 - 11-21-09 (1).JPG (141.55 KiB) Viewed 1041 times

Magnaflow 3" cat-back exhaust...removed for now...

: Bronco Fab Set 10 - 11-21-09 (2).JPG (93.04 KiB) Viewed 1041 times

New HD lug nuts (Hollander #611-171):

: Bronco Fab Set 10 - 11-21-09 (3).JPG (138.01 KiB) Viewed 1041 times

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:46 pm

The Bronco is back on all all fours, and bearing the weight well! And the icing on the cake is the engine was started and the 5.0 is up and running for the first time in 7 months! All this with the Advanced Air Cleaner Systems filter and relocated MAF. Haven't heard if there is a CEL or not... Keep your fingers crossed!

So, the suspension is "done", and it is now drivable (although I have not been up at the shop since before Thanksgiving...) Shame on me.

Next steps are a Utah State Emissions and Safety inspection, and then back to the shop for the safety cage and F&R prerunner bumpers! The fabricators are super psyched about this 'cuz, as they say, "they are fabricators, and not suspension mechanics..." and are really looking forward to the designing/bending/welding part. Works for me!

More pics over the holidays when I get a bit of a break from business traveling and project management...

Thanks to all for the great support!

sydude · Post by **sydude** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:19 pm

Awesome stuff, Brad. I vote for no hub centers, leave them open. Especially with those awesome lug nuts, which are toooo cool!

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 3:24 pm

sydude wrote:Awesome stuff, Brad. I vote for no hub centers, leave them open. Especially with those awesome lug nuts, which are toooo cool!

Thanks sydude! Yeah, with those new gold lug nuts, the OEM hub covers won't fit (the flange on the lug nut is too large for the opening in the chrome hub cover...) So I'll shelve the hub covers for now.

Thanks!!!

Becks_Bronco · Post by **Becks_Bronco** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:22 pm

Looks great man, can't wait to see the finished product. Bumpers seem to add that finishing touch that really sets a truck off from the rest.

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 7:32 pm

Becks_Bronco wrote:Looks great man, can't wait to see the finished product. Bumpers seem to add that finishing touch that really sets a truck off from the rest.

Thanks, Beck... I haven't even seen it since it's been back on all fours! The fab shop closed up for the holidays, and I've been elsewhere...so I guess I'll have to check it out next Friday when I get back from Colorado.

I agree...the prerunner bumpers DO finish off the truck real well. Many of the very cool designs that have appeared here at GFB (and over at FSB) will be incorporated into my F&R bumpers. Below is an example of what my front bumper is going to look like...with a lot of forward extension away from the front grill, with room for four lights...two Hella 4000s mounted to the center, and two Hella 500s mounted to the outside.

: Front Push Bar Design.jpg (20.05 KiB) Viewed 1018 times

Here are some of the designs that I admire and will incorporate into my F bumper...the black Bronco is the BFG Bronco, me thinks.

: Front Push Bar Design Collage.jpg (94.26 KiB) Viewed 1018 times

bajascott · Post by **bajascott** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:08 pm

hey brad, looks awsome. envious...

toddz69 · Post by **toddz69** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:45 pm

bajascott wrote:hey brad, looks awsome. envious...

Me too. You're following nearly the identical path I'll tread when I get a FSB.

I run the Goodyear Silent Armors on my EB too and really like them. I got them in the summer of '08. Bad news - I believe Goodyear has discontinued the 35" size. I got a nail at the tread/sidewall interface (more in the tread than the sidewall but the tire shop still wouldn't fix it) in one of mine a few months ago and I suddenly discovered they are no longer available. I fixed the hole in mine with a Safety Seal plug but when these are gone, there apparently won't be any more to be had.

Todd Z.

Post by **SteveG** » Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:26 pm

toddz69 wrote:I believe Goodyear has discontinued the 35" size.

That blows!

Great build, Brad. Very clean and to the point. I dig it! Thanks for taking the time to post all this info here.

denhabr · Post by **denhabr** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:49 pm

Finally visited the shop last night and got some pics...hell, it's been almost two months since I've seen it and checked it out. Too long! Christmas holidays and a new project in neighboring Colorado just got in the way...

Runs Great...Almost: My fabricators have been out driving it around (to reset the OBDII computer with enough miles to smog check it...) and it's performing well. However, they said they are experiencing a shudder while driving...under power. As they coast in neutral, it seems to go away...so they think it may be the E4OD. I didn't have any problem with transmission before I brought it into the shop, so maybe I'll have to get it over to the transmission shop when it is done. Anyone else experience a shudder while driving, in gear? Drive line?
Air Cleaner: Check out the pics of the very cool air filter system/MAF housing/intake duct! Now THAT is fabrication! These guys did a great job mating the Advanced Air Cleaner System canister to the MAF housing. They used flex fittings/clamps to connect the ?-shaped bend from the MAF around to the intake splitter and back up to the throttle body. The canister is supported by a A-frame tube (off the shock-hoop cross bar) that holds it up and above the engine bay and away from the engine/brake booster. A single clamp holds it all together. And NO CEL! Woo-hoo!
Rear Bumper: Dustin knocked out the rear bumper in a day...finishing it as I was watching him last night. Positioned the license plate to the side. This will allow the fitting of the original received hitch back into it's original position so I can still tow stuff. Rear bumper is bolt-on, so it can be removed for repairs, cleaning, painting, etc. End tubes are cut a little wider to compensate for a future fiberglass project...should I so desire.
Front Bumper: Josh was tackling the front bumper, and by the time I arrived at the shop, he had already trimmed back the front frame horns and was applying the fixed brackets to what was left. The front prerunner bumper will also be bolt-on.
Misc: The new HD lug-nuts work and look great (if a tad bit smallish...). All of the Hellas are in (4000 Euro beams in the center, with 500s to the outside)
Exhaust: Is still lobbed off and terminates after the muffler. Really thinking about re-routing it to the passenger side and down in front of the right rear tire...at least for now.
Axle Truss: Still needs to go on...but now that the rear axle is bolted away, this may be a biotch to get in now, but I'll let Dustin worry about that.