Rod's US '94 Bronco

[Silverslk]

I have to ask (since everyone else just voiced their opinion without asking).

Is there a reason (other that SteveG, haha) that you only look at autofab and SAW/fox?

I would go with option 3 with what you listed but if you are open to other ideas....I'd vote for Kiefer C/O front, Kiefer C&T's and Bilstein shocks (Joel would probably hook you up with good prices being you are traveling all the way here to build your Bronco). Are SAW/FOX/KING/BILSTEIN all available over there for support equally?

[AussieRod]

I have to ask (since everyone else just voiced their opinion without asking).

Is there a reason (other that SteveG, haha) that you only look at autofab and SAW/fox?

I would go with option 3 with what you listed but if you are open to other ideas....I'd vote for Kiefer C/O front, Kiefer C&T's and Bilstein shocks (Joel would probably hook you up with good prices being you are traveling all the way here to build your Bronco). Are SAW/FOX/KING/BILSTEIN all available over there for support equally?

Autofab wasn't only one I have looked at, and John is the only one who sells his 3" over beams WITH Cro Mo axles INCLUDED . I am currently in discussions with Mark about what I can acheive within my budget. SAW is non-existant here, as is King as a major presence. Its either Bilstein (VERY expensive here for parts and service and mostly on the buggy side) or Fox (the most popular by far here for price and ease of service/repair), plus I am basically set up for Fox stuff here. I am open to all ideas and suggestion, not limiting myself to any one company. It is SO much easier AND cheaper to do all the suspension in USA than here (3 - 4 x USA cost here), so thats why I am looking around.

[SteveG]

I have to ask (since everyone else just voiced their opinion without asking).

Is there a reason (other that SteveG, haha) that you only look at autofab

Hey now! SteveG ain't the only Autofab aficionado here. The baddest F250 ever, BajaF250, Nick (also sleeping with Mark), The Huckmaster, Flyinbronco, the former PBR Bronco (that has been in off-road service for over 15 years), Ryan's 8-lugger, and everyone else I'm missing.

There are a handful of really great fabricators that can help build a bitchin' Bronco. Several of which are long-time friends of GFB and its members. My suggestion is to speak to each of them personally, ask a lot of questions and go with whoever you feel most comfortable.

[Nick]

I have to ask (since everyone else just voiced their opinion without asking).

Is there a reason (other that SteveG, haha) that you only look at autofab

Hey now! SteveG ain't the only Autofab aficionado here. The baddest F250 ever, BajaF250, Nick (also sleeping with Mark), The Huckmaster, Flyinbronco, the former PBR Bronco (that has been in off-road service for over 15 years), Ryan's 8-lugger, and everyone else I'm missing.

There are a handful of really great fabricators that can help build a bitchin' Bronco. Several of which are long-time friends of GFB and its members. My suggestion is to speak to each of them personally, ask a lot of questions and go with whoever you feel most comfortable.

I agree with this statement!

The reason i went Autofab/Keifer, is because of how well thought out their parts are!

[Silverslk]

Not a dig toward anyone. I hope no one took offense.

I mean, I think the 3" over with chromo is cool idea but it seems like extending stock axles is easy to do (not for me but someone who can do shit).

I like the autofab stuff and like Kiefers clocked, pie cut beams. The problem is there are too many good shops and any decision won't be a bad one. I love Bilstein but availability and price should be your main concern (you already know that).

[philofab]

I have autofab glass.... And everything else is cobbled together.

[AussieRod]

I appreciate all your input, guys. I have spent the last 6 months on these forums, both FSb and GFB and learned a lot more here than I could have just working on these trucks at home. Keep in mind, I dont have the benefit of a garage of my own over there, access to a shop or a lot of time (several months, weeks, whatever). Anything I do will be based on value for money, a reasonable timeframe and a good working combination. One thing I hate is mixing and matching different brands of parts (no offence intended here). There are so many good suppliers that I could easily get lost, but the names that keep coming back are Autofab and Southwest, and for good reason. Both produce top quality components that WORK, not just look good. I have had to chance to look at many different Broncos online and seen many different flavours on how a Go Fast Ford has been done. Some are fantastic, most are very good rigs, built on a budget and only a few really need some re-thought. Its a credit to all of you for the hard work and sacrifices you make to have a good working rig. Above all, the one thing I DONT have time for is to re-do my Bronco if I dont do it properly the first time, and I really want to do some or most of the work myself. That being said, that may not be an option. So, the seven P's apply here and when I have made an INFORMED decision, you guys will be the first to know
By all means, keep your suggestions coming, and one day we will all get to run together at a big GFB bash someday and I can buy you all a beer for your help and friendship.
Cheers.

[tcm glx]

Rod, you are definitely on the right path. you said something that was key, you would like to do this once, because stuff is super expensive back home for you , so here is some slightly different advice. instead of who to go to, i am going go suggest a few things to absolutely make sure you do:

1) def do cut and turns, you will probably always wish you did
2) do uniballs and heim in the cut and turns
3) do coilovers from the get go

as for autofab or southwest, you can not go wrong either way!

[AussieRod]

Rod, you are definitely on the right path. you said something that was key, you would like to do this once, because stuff is super expensive back home for you , so here is some slightly different advice. instead of who to go to, i am going go suggest a few things to absolutely make sure you do:

1) def do cut and turns, you will probably always wish you did
2) do uniballs and heim in the cut and turns
3) do coilovers from the get go

as for autofab or southwest, you can not go wrong either way!

Mate,all of the above I agree with, except the C&T..... I am still on the fence about C&T v Drop bracket. The one thing I don't like about C&T is that it puts nore stress on the centre universal in the TTB. C&T increases the angle at ride height further than factory and droop stretches its limits to the maximum. A Hooks joint is only supposed to run at 10 - 12 deg max, and full droop on C&T exceeds that. Taking into account that 90% of its driving will be on asphalt, and that not all the time I will be in 4WD or have the front wheels off the deck, I still am not 100% convinced. I think a combo of drop bracket (2" or so) and a MILD C&T might be a better way to reduce stress on this area AND keep everything more in tune with bump v droop balance. Trust me, once its all done and I get used to driving it and figuring out its strengths and weaknesses, no-one will drive it harder than me I might even have to challenge Rick for the HuckMaster title

[Silverslk]

Mate,all of the above I agree with, except the C&T..... I am still on the fence about C&T v Drop bracket. The one thing I don't like about C&T is that it puts nore stress on the centre universal in the TTB. C&T increases the angle at ride height further than factory and droop stretches its limits to the maximum. A Hooks joint is only supposed to run at 10 - 12 deg max, and full droop on C&T exceeds that. Taking into account that 90% of its driving will be on asphalt, and that not all the time I will be in 4WD or have the front wheels off the deck, I still am not 100% convinced. I think a combo of drop bracket (2" or so) and a MILD C&T might be a better way to reduce stress on this area AND keep everything more in tune with bump v droop balance. Trust me, once its all done and I get used to driving it and figuring out its strengths and weaknesses, no-one will drive it harder than me I might even have to challenge Rick for the HuckMaster title

I "think" this is where the clocked third that Southwest does shines (but I could be wrong). I don't like C&T because of the ball joint misalignment (another thing southwests pie cut fixes) so I hope to step up to Kiefers C&T one day. As for drop brackets.....I know many say they are fine but I have a couple friends who said they had Rancho DB lift and it caused cracking of the frame due to the extra leverage (they drive hard and live in Arizona desert like Philo ). If you plan on driving hard......I think C&T is only way to go. That said, I have been known to be full of shit (your results may vary).

[AussieRod]

Mate,all of the above I agree with, except the C&T..... I am still on the fence about C&T v Drop bracket. The one thing I don't like about C&T is that it puts nore stress on the centre universal in the TTB. C&T increases the angle at ride height further than factory and droop stretches its limits to the maximum. A Hooks joint is only supposed to run at 10 - 12 deg max, and full droop on C&T exceeds that. Taking into account that 90% of its driving will be on asphalt, and that not all the time I will be in 4WD or have the front wheels off the deck, I still am not 100% convinced. I think a combo of drop bracket (2" or so) and a MILD C&T might be a better way to reduce stress on this area AND keep everything more in tune with bump v droop balance. Trust me, once its all done and I get used to driving it and figuring out its strengths and weaknesses, no-one will drive it harder than me I might even have to challenge Rick for the HuckMaster title

I "think" this is where the clocked third that Southwest does shines (but I could be wrong). I don't like C&T because of the ball joint misalignment (another thing southwests pie cut fixes) so I hope to step up to Kiefers C&T one day. As for drop brackets.....I know many say they are fine but I have a couple friends who said they had Rancho DB lift and it caused cracking of the frame due to the extra leverage (they drive hard and live in Arizona desert like Philo ). If you plan on driving hard......I think C&T is only way to go. That said, I have been known to be full of shit (your results may vary).

I am aware of the cracking problem, as BajaDale found out, this was his fix, and I must say I will use something simmilar. Agree with the differences in C&T methods. Disagree with last comment. ALL opinions are valued and are expected to be freely given, and I have been called worse. Opinions vary
EDIT: Isnt that a factory bracket he has beefed up?

[philofab]

My truck aligned with stock beams, 4" coils, and 2" pivot brackets. The clocking of the third does not affect the center joint angle.

If I did it all again I would lower the pivots 2" and just run an eccentric to align it. I would be able to achieve 18" of travel from that setup with a less extreme center joint angle.

[AussieRod]

My truck aligned with stock beams, 4" coils, and 2" pivot brackets. The clocking of the third does not affect the center joint angle.

If I did it all again I would lower the pivots 2" and just run an eccentric to align it. I would be able to achieve 18" of travel from that setup with a less extreme center joint angle.

I agree. Thats where I am looking at the moment. I am open to all opinions, suggestions and advice. I think Rancho make the best drop brackets by far, but they are only 4" or 6" now?

[AussieRod]

Has anyone here used or is using FOA shocks? There has been a lot of good and bad said about them, but lately it seems they are gaining ground as far as quality, etc. Anyone?

[BajaF250]

My truck aligned with stock beams, 4" coils, and 2" pivot brackets. The clocking of the third does not affect the center joint angle.

If I did it all again I would lower the pivots 2" and just run an eccentric to align it. I would be able to achieve 18" of travel from that setup with a less extreme center joint angle.

I agree. Thats where I am looking at the moment. I am open to all opinions, suggestions and advice. I think Rancho make the best drop brackets by far, but they are only 4" or 6" now?

Hey Rod,
I know you've researched this, but I have to throw my two cents (what's that convert to?) in. Collective experience in the C&T vs drop down bracket debate here is that the geometry of the drop down brackets puts a great deal of stress on the axle houseing pivot point and engine cross member which cracks the drop down bracket, including those from Rancho, especially when used like you plan to. You can achieve a much stronger and reliable front end with C&T axle housing geometry.

[BajaF250]

Not a dig toward anyone. I hope no one took offense.

I mean, I think the 3" over with chromo is cool idea but it seems like extending stock axles is easy to do (not for me but someone who can do shit).

I like the autofab stuff and like Kiefers clocked, pie cut beams. The problem is there are too many good shops and any decision won't be a bad one. I love Bilstein but availability and price should be your main concern (you already know that).

Hey Andy,
It's really not as easy as you think. John (Autofab) went to a great deal of research and design to come up with an extend axles so they work right. He paid to have custom front axles cut to his specifications to make it work right. Ask Rick, he came into John with a front end set up from another reputable fabricator and his front end was totally hosed up. John put his front end on the Flyin Bronco and Rick now has a totally bada$$ Bronco that really works exceptionally well... So, John has taken the guess work out of a completely functional and reliable front end. It just flat works, believe me.

[BajaF250]

I have to ask (since everyone else just voiced their opinion without asking).

Is there a reason (other that SteveG, haha) that you only look at autofab and SAW/fox?

I would go with option 3 with what you listed but if you are open to other ideas....I'd vote for Kiefer C/O front, Kiefer C&T's and Bilstein shocks (Joel would probably hook you up with good prices being you are traveling all the way here to build your Bronco). Are SAW/FOX/KING/BILSTEIN all available over there for support equally?

Autofab was only one I have looked at and John is the only one who sells his 3" over beams WITH Cro Mo axles INCLUDED . I am currently in discussions with Mark about what I can acheive within my budget. SAW is non-existant here, as is King as a major presence. Its either Bilstein (VERY expensive here for parts and service and mostly on the buggy side) or Fox (the most popular by far here for price and ease of service/repair), plus I am basically set up for Fox stuff here. I am open to all ideas and suggestion, not limiting myself to any one company. It is SO much easier AND cheaper to do all the suspension in USA than here (3 - 4 x USA cost here), so thats why I am looking around.

I currently run SAW and have had nothing but great luck with them and I've had terrific support from SAW... but I understand that's not the norm. Given what you've said above, FOX is your best bet. Quite frankly, they just great shocks. I don't think you can go wrong, especially since you can get support there easier than others brands.

[BajaF250]

Rod, you are definitely on the right path. you said something that was key, you would like to do this once, because stuff is super expensive back home for you , so here is some slightly different advice. instead of who to go to, i am going go suggest a few things to absolutely make sure you do:

1) def do cut and turns, you will probably always wish you did
2) do uniballs and heim in the cut and turns
3) do coilovers from the get go

as for autofab or southwest, you can not go wrong either way!

Tony is spot on here, good advice! I agree!

[hobbyturnedobsession]

Tony is right. I messed around with a couple setups but ended with coilovers instead. Never go back.

[philofab]

I don't think I would waste my time with an off the shelf 2" bracket. Although I never has a problem with the brackets on mine, I took them off after about 4-5 months.

A fabricated bracket with supports to the frame rail would be best.