1987 XLT "Bob's White One"

Post by **SteveG** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:40 pm

Robert, Build the mounts with the front end completely compressed (without bump stops) and the shock almost completely compressed... You need some wiggle room for frame flex.

Putting the shock behind the bucket just makes for better packaging and less (hardly any) intrusion into the engine bay. It can work just as well as a shock in front of the bucket, just requires different valving.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:43 pm

10" passenger side tucks nicely under AC box and accumulator when behind the bucket a 14" in front on the pass side would be ok as well. Driver side looks like it will require relocation of most stuff on the fender liner. Steve G has more info on the decision matrix, I just went this way because of success of others. See this pic.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:44 pm

Thanks Steve that the way I will go.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:38 pm

This looks soo cool I had to put a picture up of my 9"Nodular 3.25" however I used small races so I can run a 31 spline billet posi until I go 35 spline. I am still working on the front end just planning for the rear.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:54 pm

Ok I tried TIG welding today for the first time( I borrowed a Miller 180). I have always just used a wire feed mig. I made a plate and re-inforced the Pass side beam pivot first. I played with amperage and finally got some decent penetration and now I need to work on my presentation...

I will try plating this on the TTB pivots for now and see how they hold up.

DirtFiend602 · Post by **DirtFiend602** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 8:59 am

Looks good! What is your method for removing the rivets?

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Nick · Post by **Nick** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:15 pm

Go Bob Go! I'm excited for another member of the white bronco mafia to hit the dirt!

BajaBronco13 · Post by **BajaBronco13** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:18 pm

Nick wrote:Go Bob Go! I'm excited for another member of the white bronco mafia to hit the dirt!

Looks like the Secret Society of Black Bronco Owners is being over run. ha ha ha.

Nice Bronco by the way.

philofab · Post by **philofab** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:19 pm

Those are pretty decent welds for a first timer!

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:54 am

Thanks for the encourgement and support.

I got the rivets out by using a 4-1/2" grinder and taking the head as flush to the frame as I could. Then I used the oxy/acet torch with a #1 tip and a nice small blue flame and put a little heat in the center of now flush ground rivet until it just starts to turn dull red. My $86.00 Ingersol-Rand air chisel with the air compressor set at 120 psi and after a little pounding they usually comeout. If one is unwilling to yield I fall back on the 1/2" drill to finally get them.

Mojo · Post by **Mojo** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 11:57 am

those coil buckets are sweeeet!!!

tcm glx · Post by **tcm glx** » Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:25 am

Any updates Bob?

Post by **SteveG** » Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:39 am

Bondobob wrote:Rear with stock bumper and tire carrier before removal

bob are you getting rid of the tire carrier? If it's going to end up in the scrap pile, I'll take it.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:08 pm

Yes, I have some updates on the stuff in progress and the jury is out on the tire carrier. If I don't use it Steve it will find its way to you.

Worked on Drivers side pivot bracket. I will use a full shank Grade 8 to replace the factory fasteners on the beam OEM pivot points.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:17 pm

More Driver and Passenger.... I will leave the Drivers Pivot bolt as is however I will probably need to cut the passenger one some to add more axle shaft clearance I will verify during mock up and cycling. I will keep track of the plating condition and hopefully this will be more than enough for now.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:25 pm

Speaking of clearances I mocked up the beams and radius arms on final assembly I will add washers, I am concerned about axle shaft clearance with the bolt threads present inside the beams. I did not look at the OEM set up very closely before I took it apart.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:30 pm

Drain plug for D44 center section because it is a PITA to service the front diff otherwise.

Bondobob · Post by **Bondobob** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:46 pm

Passenger side is mounted up and time to locate coil bucket and mount shock tabs. The question now is how far forward should I push the beam I know the common practice is 1"-1.5" I can pop my old knuckle on and bolt a wheel up for cycling as of this point. Is there a desired set measurement for wheelbase, estimate for how many threads on heim or just push til it almost hits? It is close to centered now but it was royal pain to get lined up. I hard mounted the radius arm to the beam, installed pivot bolt,then heim misaligns and bolt in the heim. Is there a better sequence or should I leave all stuff loose then tighten after all is in place. It seems like the beam bushing is in somewhat of a bind condition.

Post by **SteveG** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:07 pm

Make sure you don't install the third mounting bolt until the beams and arms are mounted. Leave the beam to radius arm bolts loose as well so it can move while you're mounting everything. Tighten the pivot bolts then the beam to arm bolts then install the third mounting bolts. Use washers to fill the gap between the arm tab and back of the beam.

There is a specific measurement for mounting the radius arm pivot brackets. I don't remember What it is....

Post by **SteveG** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:11 pm

Radius arm Heims: Install nuts on Heims (as far as they'll go), bottom the Heim on the arm, thread out 3 turns then tighten jam nut and install arm.

1987 XLT "Bob's White One"

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