Re: SteveG's 84
Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 8:17 pm
Cool, do you see many of those around?philofab wrote:All of your arguments are invalid in Arizona.
I can swap a blown 60s big block into a Geo Metro here.
Cool, do you see many of those around?philofab wrote:All of your arguments are invalid in Arizona.
I can swap a blown 60s big block into a Geo Metro here.
There's nothing to see. All I've done is install the later model carrier and flip the tire mount to drop the tire. Eventually I'll add an extra latch like Kris did to his and I'll add the lift support but those projects on a long list of things I want to but might never do....Mojo's96 wrote:Hey Steve when are we gonna see some pics of your spare tire carrier, any progress on that? I am very interested in seeing what you've done....
Where is is cracking?Agui-E7TE wrote:Me too, I just removed mine but I feel like putting it back on but with the stock tire, it's already started cracking the body a bit. Can't imagine what a 35 would do if I don't reinforce the body or the design of the tire gate.
SteveG wrote:There's nothing to see. All I've done is install the later model carrier and flip the tire mount to drop the tire. Eventually I'll add an extra latch like Kris did to his and I'll add the lift support but those projects on a long list of things I want to but might never do....Mojo's96 wrote:Hey Steve when are we gonna see some pics of your spare tire carrier, any progress on that? I am very interested in seeing what you've done....
Where is is cracking?Agui-E7TE wrote:Me too, I just removed mine but I feel like putting it back on but with the stock tire, it's already started cracking the body a bit. Can't imagine what a 35 would do if I don't reinforce the body or the design of the tire gate.
I don't wheel with mine but if I was, I would take the time to make sure the tire can't flop around. In the stock configuration, my 33 would move like crazy. All that movement=cracking sheet metal. That said, it sure is nice to have a secure place to put a spare outside of the car for camping trips and such. No matter how nice you're interior spare mount is, you still have to stick that bastard in the car and lose all that storage space.
No where yet. The plan is to put it in the transfer case where the speedometer drive is. Buuut, I brought a sensor home and it doesn't fit due to the clocking of the connector. I need to look for a sensor with the connector in a different spot. I'm hoping there is one that will fit but I haven't put any effort into finding it. If that fails, I might be able to use the cruise control speed sensor which is located under the hood between the 2-piece speedometer cable. This would be a lot easier to wire but it would mean losing my cruise control which I like. Especially since I got the fancy Saleen cruise control switch bracket and all. I'd hate for them to go unused!BajaF250 wrote:Hey Steve,
Where and how did you mount your VSS?
My inner fenders/inner fenders need some work anyway so I might do that. I was thinking about making some kind of boot out of an old inner-tube and zip-ties. It wouldn't look the best but it would get the job done... cheap.BajaF250 wrote:I noticed your relays up on the inner fender. I was concerned about mounting mine there due to water seepage from the hood (either rain or when washed). So, I used a piece of old door seal and sliped it onto the fend edge to make a nice water seal above the electrics there... it works well.
That's exactly how I feel. I've tested all the circuits more times than I can keep track of but I'm still really nervous about cranking the engine! But, like I said, the injectors click and the fuel pump relay turns on and off as intended, so that's a good sign. the injectors have sat dry for several years. I'm hoping they aren't badly gummed up. I'm going to do a fuel injector flush when I get it running anyway, so as long as they flow fuel, I should be OK.BajaF250 wrote:Man, I gotta tell you... even with all the wiring and harness testing... I was really holding my breath when it came to cranking the motor over for the first firing!
Not sure what transfer case you have and where the speedo cable connects, but if it's like mine (still have the BW1345), I had to make a new speedo adapter. My plastic adapter was old enough that it cracked and broke. So, I machined one from aluminum and was able to clock it to match the VSS from a 87-91 EFI setup.SteveG wrote:No where yet. The plan is to put it in the transfer case where the speedometer drive is. Buuut, I brought a sensor home and it doesn't fit due to the clocking of the connector. I need to look for a sensor with the connector in a different spot. I'm hoping there is one that will fit but I haven't put any effort into finding it. If that fails, I might be able to use the cruise control speed sensor which is located under the hood between the 2-piece speedometer cable. This would be a lot easier to wire but it would mean losing my cruise control which I like. Especially since I got the fancy Saleen cruise control switch bracket and all. I'd hate for them to go unused!BajaF250 wrote:Hey Steve,
Where and how did you mount your VSS?
I actually had my injectors all rebuilt. They had been sitting on the motor I got from the wrecking yard for I don't know how many years. Got all new seals, new screen, new tip, etc. They then flow benched/tested them. They sat for about 6-months and when I tested them prior to start, the pintles were stuck in the seats... I just snapped them a couple of times with +12v and that freed them up. They've been working perfectly since.SteveG wrote:That's exactly how I feel. I've tested all the circuits more times than I can keep track of but I'm still really nervous about cranking the engine! But, like I said, the injectors click and the fuel pump relay turns on and off as intended, so that's a good sign. the injectors have sat dry for several years. I'm hoping they aren't badly gummed up. I'm going to do a fuel injector flush when I get it running anyway, so as long as they flow fuel, I should be OK.
I went through the same decision process, stock fuel pump or lift/hi-press pump... ended up with the stock setup. Have you decided how you're going to run the return fuel line back to the tank?SteveG wrote:The original plan was to put a lift pump just outside of the gas tank and the high-pressure pump on the frame rail toward the front of the truck. In the end, I decided I would just cut a hole in the floor and mount it in the tank like the 86-91(ish) EFI trucks. These use a sender and hanger that is just about identical to the stock carburetor version in my truck so that means I don't have to replace the tank.
Got the fuel pump mounted on the hanger today, I just need to put the pick-up screen on it and mount it in the tank. After I cut a hole in the floor....
I pulled the in-tank and in-line pumps and the complete fuel lines from an 87 Bronco chassis that was headed to the scrap yard. The fact that I already have the lines is another reason I went with the in-tank lift pump. I haven't decided if I'll leave the original steel feed line or replace it with the line out of the 87.BajaF250 wrote:Have you decided how you're going to run the return fuel line back to the tank?
Oh, good idea!SteveG wrote:I pulled the in-tank and in-line pumps and the complete fuel lines from an 87 Bronco chassis that was headed to the scrap yard. The fact that I already have the lines is another reason I went with the in-tank lift pump. I haven't decided if I'll leave the original steel feed line or replace it with the line out of the 87.BajaF250 wrote:Have you decided how you're going to run the return fuel line back to the tank?
It's only cool if it falls off!yikes wrote:Just take the hood off. It's all the rage.
SteveG wrote:It's only cool if it falls off!yikes wrote:Just take the hood off. It's all the rage.