Another Bronco Build

[Broncodawg]

Welcome to GFB and best of luck with the build. The beauty of these broncos is they'll work for you slow in the rocks or fast! Have fun!

[ChiroMatt]

14" c/o
400/450 coils
2" bumps w cans

[ChiroMatt]

Gears and lockers going in next.
Waiting on c/t and leafs to arrive.
Still lots of frame prep to do.

[ChiroMatt]

Does any have any tips in how to remove
The body mount bolts? 22mm wrench and
A hammer is tough going.
Cannot seem to fit an impact wrench on
There... Any help would be great.

[Travisfab]

What's your intention with taking them off? They are a major pain! Took a saw zaw to mine.

[ChiroMatt]

Intend to replace body mounts with new
Urethane ones. Looking to mount glass
All the way around, and was advised by
The autofab guru that body mounts should
Be done first in order to ensure a good glass
Fit. Wow they are super tough To get off.

[Rmc]

Sawsall then trash the remains. A little heat helps too if needed.

[ChiroMatt]

Dang
So no chance of re using the bolts...?

Was trying not to spend the $300 for the
JBG kit.

Is there anything special about these bolts?
Can't I just measure and pu at a hardware
Store?

[Rmc]

Not special hardware, outside of shank lengths. Just figure out your lengths (remove nuts and punch out bottom up with a long skinny punch if needed) then go buy grade 8 bolts, the body isn't shifting all that much, I wouldn't worry about shank lengths. Factory are 9/16's if memory serves. There should only be 3 or 4 lengths. I'm pretty sure 4 in the bed are the same, 2 oddballs,then 2 up front at the core support. In the past I removed the bolts, and cut the sleeves and rubber using a combo saws all blade. The ones that have 2 tpi counts. The wood and nails demolition blades.then install the new mounts , start all bolts by hand and lower the body onto the replacements. FYI I have yet to do my bronco and I'm dreading the removal process too.

[ChaseTruck754]

I get the bolts out - lots of kroil, liquid wrench, or other penetrating oil & a pnumatic socket from the TOP, as that nut on the bottom is part of the bottom plate of body mount. Then I drill out the body mounts themselves as they are a 2 part metal deal that snaps together & then rusts together over time. I re-use these metal inserts with the poly, but stick a grade 8 9/16" or 5/8" bolt through with a large fender washer on the bottom in place of that plate with the nut when done.

These pics are from a 70's truck body mount I did, but the body mounts work the same through the 90's

Here's one with the bottom rubber & metal insert removed after drilling.



& here's that bottom plate with attached nut after drilling

[ChaseTruck754]

On the top pic there you can still see a portion of the bottom part of the matal mount stuck to the top piece. This is the part that snaps together & never seems to want to come off.

Also - as far as shank lengths on these bolts - it doesn't really matter as Robert said.

Oh and factory bolts are 7/16" I believe. As I said I bump these way up.

[snowman429]

You're better off with the impact or wrench on the top of the bolt. Once you get them loose back the bolts out about half way and hit them with a sledgehammer to separate the sleeves. That's how I did mine. The 6 rear are easy to beat on, the front two under the dash are a little harder to hit but it can be done. Pull the inner fenders out to get to the two on the core support, makes it a lot easier. It also helps to take the bolts all the way out then spray some wd40 or pb blaster down the holes. I only had to cut the two bolts on the core support. I think if I had removed the inner fenders first I could have just beat them with a sledgehammer to separate them. And I believe the bolts are 7/16th. Hope this helps.

[ChiroMatt]

Great info thx guys.

[ChiroMatt]

Since body mounts have been slowing me
Down I switched to the junkyard 9" trussing.

[gjls]

Take the bolt out from the top then cut a piece of pipe that will fit over the cab mount from the bottom then take a piece of angle iron and drill a hole then put the bolt thru the hole thru the pipe and thread it into the mount from the bottom and as you tighten the bolt it will pull the 2 halves apart......easy as can be

[ChiroMatt]

The rear end is in!!!
E350 9" off an 85 van
31 spline
ARB air locker
Disc brakes off a junkyard flat track 9"
Ruff stuff truss
Q80's
Threat shackles
Threat upper shock mount
FOA 12" triple bypass

Still need to run:
limit straps
Wheel spacers?
Paint it
Trim u bolts

[keenanduran1]

looks great man! what did you do for the front hanger when putting in the q80's?

[ChiroMatt]

For the front hanger we used 4 washers
Two per side of leaf spring. It's a tight fit
And a little tricky to get the last washer in
But it's possible with miny pry bar, awl, hammer
A lift and lots of cussing!!!!

I will post a photo of this next time I'm at
Shop.

[cs_drums]

How did you straighten it after the trussing on the rearend?

[ChiroMatt]

Slow welding, inch at a time and crossing sides lots....
and the truss is different than other trusses out there, its less on the back and more on the top and bottom, so it kinda keeps itself straight in the welding process. Read all this stuff on building a welding mount and or using a long straight bar, but did neither and it looks ok and measures ok, so far.