GoFastBroncos.com

CRAWLfish Racing & driver Jason Davis are ready to bring 100% Coonass Octane in the new Dana 44 TTB Jeep Wrangler. The 2013 central series trail class points champions & 2nd place national points will be racing in 4500 Pro Class in W.E.ROCK Dirt Riot this year.

100"W.B.
Front: Dana 44 TTB (cut & turned), 14" 2.5 coilovers, 12" 2.5 res shocks & 4" bumpstops, liimted to 18" travel
Rear: Full width 8.8 31spline, Deaver Jeepspeed G9's, 14" 2.5 res shocks

We want to thank our 2014 Season Sponsors: General Tire, AMSOIL www.Allsynoil.com, RuffStuff Specialties, FOA Shock Absorbers , Flatblack fabrication, Higher Limits Offroad, SoCal Print Shop by JaysinDesignz.com & my MOM. We will be racing nationwide on all 5 series of Dirt Riot (9 races.)

Today was the 1st day shake down. Only problem was we lost the pass side drive flange & resulted in the center u-joint throwing a cap & bending the ear on the slip. Pulled the pass shaft to continue testing.

We mainly concentrated on getting used to the new TTB & speed in 2wd/4wd. Steering was really lose in 2wd but stable in 4wd. After putting in the new shaft we will speed test again & do some crawling/ suspension flexing.

I recall some gfb guys talking about max speed with 4hi.... Anyone remember? Something about flinging oil too and a recommendation on breather tube...
Philo?

I remember that thread. I remember the speed being pretty high. The issue was gear oil being flung up the breather hose. One fix posted was a reservoir on the end of the breather so fluid would drain back in.

Yeah guys have ran somewhere close to 90 mph in 4 hi. Oil fling is a big issue. As seabass had stated, mount a resi on the breather tube. The d44 pumpkins are tight so not a lot of room for oil capacity.

I forgot to unlock My hubs leaving Laughlin one year. Made it about 50 miles before I started to smell oil and new something was up. Was averaging about 90MPH.........

Jeep needs more camber. Going to far posative at full droop.

Is it an optical delusion or is that radius arm curved out? Is it bent to clear a body mount at full tuck or something?

I run a sealed axle bladder on my axles.

BDKW1 wrote:Jeep needs more camber. Going to far posative at full droop.

This was a question I was going to ask some of you. We bought the MOOG 0 To +3.2 Degree Caster/Camber Adjustment Bushing.
They are both maxed out, sitting 0 at ride height & tires maybe 1 degree negative.
The cut & turn is 1.25" extended on the lower ball joint.
For the beam mounts. I used the subframe from a Bronco & cut it to fit into the Jeep frame rails.

When I went to put the pass side in it was very tight getting in a zero.

Dezurfer wrote:The cut & turn is 1.25" extended on the lower ball joint.

That doesn't seem possible. I only move the bottom BJ out 1/2" and haven't had problems getting the camber right.

BDKW1 wrote:

Dezurfer wrote:The cut & turn is 1.25" extended on the lower ball joint.

That doesn't seem possible. I only move the bottom BJ out 1/2" and haven't had problems getting the camber right.

we moved ours out about that much too. maybe it was 1 1/8" but it was way more than 1/2
running zero degree ecentrics, using stock pivot points, and camber is just right.
Brian, you using lift brackets for your C&T builds?

baja-chris wrote:Brian, you using lift brackets for your C&T builds?

Nope.

OK, I did some math on this. spacing it out.
1/2" is 3.8* change
1-1/4" out is a 9.6* change.

Going off a stock length beam
4" lift changes the camber 6*
6" lift changes 9*

Based off this you would need to go a little posative on the eccentric to maintain the sam camber wit ha 6" lift and 1.25 ball joint move.

1/2" with a 3* eccentric will be more than enough for a 4" lift. It also puts your U-joint back in almost the stock position. I guess I set them to have max up-travel and only about 4" lift over stock.

And the lift measurements for this are based at the balljoint, actual lift at the center of the tire would be more.

For the jeep, I would move the upper in. This will make your u-joint happier.