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I know CTM made complete Dana 50 ttb axles for the gentnin Iceland with the formula off road ttb rig. They used Dana 60 joints. The Dana 50 third member limiting factor is the passenger axle after clearancing for travel. Which has me thinking of running 44 axles in my 50 with conversion ujoints at the stub shaft. I upgraded to the Dana 50 ttb mostly for the larger hubs.

50 axles have the same pumpkin spline count and diameter, u joint size is larger. Outer should be same as some 60 applications in spline count. I know you can swap OEM Ford 50 and 60 lockouts.

So your saying the diff spline end is the same philo???? and so might be the outer end on the dan50 to the dana60???
Well if thats the case all we need to do is machine the outer so the bearing and dust seal line up.

Will also have to cut the end down are re-cut a cir-clip groove.

Dose anyone have any information about under steer and how you might correct it in an off-road application. My truck is new and by no mean set up but i dont really know what to look at changing.
Thanks

outlaws4x4 wrote:Dose anyone have any information about under steer and how you might correct it in an off-road application. My truck is new and by no mean set up but i dont really know what to look at changing.
Thanks

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Question had nothing to do with D50 TTB but here goes.
Ha --- A good recommendation for an off road go fast rig is to do all the following:
Induce over steer
* Stiff rear sway bar
* Rear Spool
* Low grip rear tires
Minimize under steer
* Use 4wd all the time especially with at least a limited slip.
* Use more 4wd power to pull you thru the turns
* Delete the front sway bar.
* Front tires with max grip as possible = new ones.
* Slow down for hard turns.

Thanks PaulW, i suppose i should follow one unrelated question with another

Dose anyone have info on tyre grooving? what pattern is designed to do what? ect?

outlaws4x4 wrote:Thanks PaulW, i suppose i should follow one unrelated question with another

Dose anyone have info on tyre grooving? what pattern is designed to do what? ect?

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My observations and I am not a racer.
Short course tires all have simple rectangular blocks . The come that way from the tire company. They are made for mud and going straight and sliding at every corner. Then the individual race teams make secret changes for each track. Pretty inappropriate tire for a conventional desert racer. I have a buddy using the things for prerunning and he says he likes the way they slide around lots of over steer. His tires are takeoffs from atop team and they are as built by the tire company(BFG). His favorite thing about those tires is he gets them almost free -- Ha.
Some desert racer guys do groove the front tires and from what I see these tires do not show up until race day. Looking at what comes off the trucks at a race pit I see all kinds of different custom grooving. These tires I examined were all BFG Projects, and you know these Projects are a low traction tire with little blocking as delivered from the factory. So it is not surprising that carving them up to add lots of blocking for side traction would be desired. Never noticed custom grooving for the rears???
Seems like one would have to have an unlimited tire budget to make any sense of what would be the best way to do it?

What a bunch of BS. It is just observations. Best to ignore the above.
Paul

Well i heard back from RCV and they say they cant help me in the ways of making me custom dana50 axles. Soooooooo is there anyone else out there?

cheers Ash

Has anyone ever put dana60 axles in a dana50 ttb? looks like its doable with a little bit of machining of the dana60 outer???

outlaws4x4 wrote:Well i heard back from RCV and they say they cant help me in the ways of making me custom dana50 axles. Soooooooo is there anyone else out there?

cheers Ash

Whats custom about it? Changing the length is an easy DIY project, we do it all the time and they never break (yet).
If you need it longer, take two axles, cut them so they add up to the length you want.
V-cut the ends. Make a sleeve to fit over them with some holes in it for rosette welds.
Slid the sleeve on and out of the way.
Drop the two axles into a piece of angle iron and clamp them down to hold straight.
Weld up the V-notches.
Grind welds smooth. Slide sleeve over weld.
Weld sleeve on including rosette holes.
Paint and done. Good for race conditions with at least 600hp and 37" tires. Never tried them beyond that.

Chris i did that with my first set of axles and i had it fail. I live in Australia and there are none to very few dana50 here and finding two axles to make 1 would be impossible. Is there anyone who makes dana50 aftermarket axles???? AT ALL????? i would like to just buy a set the correct length and be done with it. By the time i get things shipped here to australia i am paying double almost so i want to make sure whatever i get is going to hold up.

Where do you buy all your axles you use to cut and join?????

cheers Ash

junk yards and ebay
ford made millions of them

Ash, read this thread
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/view ... xle+splice

If you follow the FAA instructions and have a break near the splice then you did something wrong because the result is way stronger than no splice.
Same thing for Chris' method.
Paul

for custom axles, try CTM in Oceanside.
https://www.facebook.com/CtmRacingProducts

there are others but i've not used any of them and don't recall names off hand.

also we scallop the ends of the sleeve to distribute the weld over a longer area.
would be a good idea to normalize or heat treat the finished product although we don't

Welding a splice with dissimilar metals can be a problem. The stock axles are 10xx steel. So the correct sleeve material should be the same. This means low carbon sleeves. If 4130 which is high carbon is used then cracking is predicted at the weld. This is usually avoided by normalizing. Each welder will have different results.

You might try http://www.henrysmachine.com/ they have been making specialty axles and components for a long time.

Well its been some time since iv last been on here and iv made some major changes to the truck, i ended up getting 30 spline dana60 axle shafts made to fit in the front and i change the engine to a 6.0L L98 V8. I went out testing a couple of months back and blew the front center slip joint apart in a big way so i replaced it with a forged chromolly one which so far has held up.

I just had my first race for the year this weekend and everything went great except i think i have blowen the front dana50 up havnt pulled it appart yet but i can tell you the pinion is still in place and it has not locked up.

Has any one else destroyed one of these? im only running 34" tyres and i hope to get up to a 37" eventually so not looking good if i can blow one apart with 34" my engine puts out 388hp at the wheels so its not massive but its enough

any ideas or ideas for upgrades?

thanks
Ash

Oh BTW we got 3rd in class and 5th Outright