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Glen Helen sounds like one rough course after reading the Pirate thread!
Bummer about the carnage and bet it was fun getting the racer on the trailer! At least you have some time until the 1K. Best of luck!

MOSS2 wrote:

retroblazer wrote:I'm sure a straight axle will fit perfect. The Black Bronco folks may be of help.

You bet, I know where there are a bunch of 78/79 frames to pop under there. Should be able to do it in a weekend..

Thanks! That's awesome.

Working on ideas now. We will be back. And the solution will not include "slower".

Looks like the upper ball joint cup tore out of the d44 ttb housing, then pulled the lower ball joint apart.

Maybe billet end beams like mine...

cs_drums,
What is your source or did you do the build?

Giant Motorsports. It was a one off set Geoff was making for an F150 he was going to race but he ended up selling the project. I don't know if you can convince him to do another set cause he said it was too much work haha.

I'm sure Glen could build a set. Or maybe talk to Cho I'm pretty sure he was involved with the build when he worked for Geoff. They did some stout internal gussets too.

Thanks, Looks tough
PW

The BJ "cups" seem like something any competent machinist could make. Fitting them in the beam properly seems like something Chris & Glen could handle as well. Might be worth looking into if the BJ tearing out was the cause of the issues.

We have decided to try the Spidertrax Ultra4 parts. Just placed the order.
http://www.spidertrax.com/products/spider-9
For steering knuckles, using the Pro Series 60, all chromoly.
Using the 35 spline ultimate unit bearings with same 5x5.5 5/8 studs, left and right hand threads.
These are also chromoly parts. And using the ultimate 4340 stub shaft.

For the inner axle we will have someone (maybe CTM in Oceanside) make D44 high alloy axles with the big yoke.
We may need to make another custom rotor hat, will see once we mock up the parts.

The steering and caliper mounts are something we will fab and weld to the sides of the uprights.
And we will fab up a way to weld this into the ends of our TTB housings.

The Torchmate Ultra4 TTB car used these, there is a build thread on Pirate.
There won't be any adjustment once welded so we need to set our camber/caster where we want it.
And of course we will set them in enough to be class3 legal on track width.
Rulebook does not say how they measure track width. Gonna call Jake at SCORE.

What is the advantage of left and right handed lug threads?

philofab wrote:What is the advantage of left and right handed lug threads?

It's not the wheels lugs that are left right, these unit bearings have a nut holding them together, you do not need an axle in them to run them. Left-right refers to the nut holding them together.

BDKW1 wrote:

philofab wrote:What is the advantage of left and right handed lug threads?

It's not the wheels lugs that are left right, these unit bearings have a nut holding them together, you do not need an axle in them to run them. Left-right refers to the nut holding them together.

That makes way more sense. I assume you have to carry two spares then or are they interchangeable?

spindle threads inside the unit bearing are right/left threads. i think you can run one on the wrong side if you had to.

Those look nice... I wonder if I can make those work on my Dodge...

That sucking sound you hear is the money pit. Just ordered the RCV CV inner axle set.
Then I'll have a custom axle made to connect from the slip to the 1480
yoke at the wheel. Spidertrax is providing the outer stub axles as part of their "kit".

http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-d ... u=CVJTTB-B

Weakest link in the axles will now be at least twice as strong as what we had.

I would think it would be the 30 spline axle end in the pumpkin...

Yes it will. But at least it's now going to be a high alloy axle instead of a junk yard part.
We run a torsen type front diff instead of a locker so that helps too.
Will still race it in 2wd and only use 4wd in select sections for desert racing.
Next time we try an Ultra4 event we will see how far it gets before breaking.

Hey Chris. How has the moving of the fill hole on the TTB housing worked out? Has there been any issues with having more gear oil in the housing? Before I truss mine, I am thinking about moving it also.

Wrightracing.net wrote:Hey Chris. How has the moving of the fill hole on the TTB housing worked out? Has there been any issues with having more gear oil in the housing? Before I truss mine, I am thinking about moving it also.

No issues with that. The stock fill hole location was in the way of where I wanted to put the truss. The extra oil does not seem to hurt, who knows if it helps.

Thanks....

How is this assembly coming along Chris?