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Hi Paul, thanks for the compliments! Which tools do you disagree with, the two cups of coffee, or the wheel bearing grease? hah

In all seriousness, this is the first real project I have ever wired, so it is definitely a learning experience, and I certainly am not an expert. Regarding connections, is there anything that looks "wrong"? I am open for constructive criticisms and want to learn as much as I can. The amount of money you can spend on wiring was eye opening, so I am trying to work the line between budget and quality parts.

Again, the compliments are appreciated.

Erik

Your install is classical and very good. No criticism intended.
I always use ratchet crimpers and aerospace fastons when ever possible to avoid screw connections. My crimp connectors are either from Amp or Thomas Bets and meet the original qualification specs for crimp connections. That means dual crimp one of the wire and one for the insulator. Of course screwed crimp connectors are used when a faston is not applicable. Example ground to chassis. I am to cheap to buy the aerospace crimpers, but testing has shown that compromise is acceptable. 2 sided crimp instead of multifaceted crimp. If you have interest in this stuff browse the aircraft web sites. Best crimper I have is used from an aircraft electrical vendor and was a production line crimper with stops for specific crimps. I removed the indexing stop and have a good tool. Bought at an aviation show. Turns out these days the import knockoff as just as good. Sold everywhere.
Don't worry about my anal methods 90%? of the racers do it your way. My way is typical for aircraft at about 99% of the time.
My other anal methods is use switches whenever possible to avoid relays, and I never use CBs - just fuses. Aside; With these new chip powered gauges relays are part of the deal due to the low current thru the chip. So now I have multiple relays - Ha.
Standard automotive push-in fuses are still the choice just like you use.
Paul

Great, thanks for the elaboration. I didn't take offense, I just want to get my hands on all the knowledge/info I can. I'll check into the aviation stuff. I grew up around planes and I'll be with my dad this weekend so I'll rummage through his tool box at the hanger and see if I can find any goods.

Thanks again for the compliments!

Erik

The wiring worked.




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congrats!

Thanks Steve! It was an awesome feeling


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I take it that’s the exhaust burning off and not an electrical fire. Congrats!

Looks more like a tire fire.

Kicking it old school tonight. CADboard.




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Looks good!

Great updates!!!

Started turning cardboard into aluminum! If anyone has specific info on the wire mesh typically used I’d love some insight vs. trial and error.



Also figured since I’m in an eternal state of build, I should ditch the leafs and link it.... it’s stupid, I know.




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Good to see you are still plugging away!

As for the mesh, this is what I am going to order for my alfa grill whenever I decide to pull the trigger. The guy has all sorts of different sizes & gauges and can cut to any size. Prices are better than McMastercarr. No personal experience previously, I just got out my calipers & eyeballed what would seem like a sturdy enough wire diameter, & then looked at what I thought would be good on the hole pattern. The numbers here (5 in this link I am posting below) indicate how many squares in a linear inch. So the #5 here means 1 square inch has 5x5 squares, or the squares are a little smaller than .250". Hopefully that makes sense.

https://www.ebay.com/i/113206025850?ul_ ... setruck754

My vote is ditch the leafs. For a rig that is only used once or twice a year in the Baja whoops leafs probably would last a long time. My weekly use was what most would consider heavy use. Use them a lot and they will not last. Based on my experience the leafs work only if one keeps the deflection (travel) to near stock which is not what we want or do.
My build started with leafs with lots of travel and I was doing them over every year. Sometime we reshaped other times we found broke leafs. The result was 4 link and coil-overs. Boy was that a costly decision, but the rear had no more issues for many years (like never).
What I know about a Bronco build for heavy use in Baja. Here is my list of what does not work:
Leafs, 8.8, stock fuel tank, stock seat belts, no cage, stock seats, manual trans, 5.0, AC delete, 4x4 delete, 37s, stock motor mounts, aftermarket cooling system, stock headlights, un-reinforced TTB, stock brakes, etc.

Awesome, thanks for the heads up on the mesh and the insight on the links.

I have some of the link components done at the laser and will be getting hardware in the next week or two.

I will be posting my leafs and hangers for sale soon as well. I’ll post more as I get work done.



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Diggin the updates! Keep at it!

More aluminum and the progression of the link design






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Rotate the lower mounts on the axle strait down.

BDKW1 wrote:Rotate the lower mounts on the axle strait down.

I already have the link parts cut/being cut. Hopefully that’s a “nice to have” and not a need...


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Having the mounts forward will screw with your anti-squat numbers. It will also put a lot more load on your uppers.