I think you might be right on not loosing anything with the 10” shaft in an 8” body. I measured the depth of the 10” body and it’s 16” from the bottom of the I’d to the top lip so I think the 8” body has more usable room for a longer shaft to travel up that what the 8” shaft uses. Once o move on the the back of the truck I will pull the 8s apart and see what happens.ChaseTruck754 wrote:On the "short body" shocks, which are what a lot of guys end up running on broncos so as to get more droop (although on bronco's it's typically a 12" shaft in a 10" body) you don't lose anything that I know of. I could be imagining this thing all wrong though, as to be honest it was years ago now when I cycled my rear & the short body shock was an afterthought I didn't truly measure out at the time.
Here is how things worked in my experience though:
with a 10" shock I got the droop I wanted, with the lower mounts on the axle up a little bit & protected like I liked. The issue was at bump the shock would bottom out before the suspension fully cycled up.
If I moved the mounting tabs for the lower end of the shock way low, below the CL of the axle (like 3-4" lower than stock lower shock mounts if I remember right) I could get the thing to bump, but I left a lot of shaft hanging low & exposed.
I went to an 8" stroke shock that allowed me to put the lower mounts where I liked, and also made it so the shock bottomed out much closer to full suspension bump (although shock still would bottom 1st, so I bumped it a bit low).
My thought with the 8" body & 10" shaft I could keep my truck bumped where I am at now, but gain the couple extra inches of droop. I do see what you are saying about still losing that 2" of bump since the overall shaft if longer. I'm having a brain fart right now with wrapping my head around that would be the case or not, as I'm distracted by the work I'm supposed to be doing vs. playing here online 7 thinking more about trucks - haha.
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