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cs_drums wrote:I took a look at the wife's, there is a acorn style nut as uploaded to a bolt head on the two above it bo no additional brackets or anything.


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Wait so yours just has a third bolt like the two above it?

Got some LED reverse bulbs in, and swapped out the bent up Ranger wheels for the original steelies after painting them white. I like this classic look a lot more than I thought I would.. might keep it this way for awhile


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Did a thing while my headliner was getting redone, bought this rack and light cage off another Discount Tire employee dirt cheap, and a friend whipped up some mounts for it. Love the look and versatility of it, but debating on getting bigger lights or ditching the Hellas and light cage altogether and running a cheap light bar on the rack


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Need some advice, wanting to get a little more out of the B2's suspension. Was reading an older Off Road Magazine article; http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/120 ... -burgundy/ and was looking at the extremely simple front suspension setup, and considering trying something similar on my B2. Would I just be wasting time and money? Currently my B2 has 2.5" spacers under the stock coils, stock shocks, beams, and radius arms, and new stock replacement brake lines. Rear has add-a-leafs, and stock shocks. Was perusing 4WP's website and the only Bilstein 5100's they offer for my vehicle are for a 4" lift, so would running them front and rear with a limit strap to the stock radius arm and coil bucket do me any good? Looking to smooth out the ride a bit for local backroads riddled with washboards, not planning to jump it since it's still my DD. Might try something similar on my F150

By far the best bang for the buck, the biggest change you can make to how it behaves on washboard is going to be bigger tires that you don't have to run at 30+ psi. These trucks are hyper sensitive to bad shocks on the highway, but even good stock shocks will take care of that. You will have to ask yourself if you really want big tires on this thing and give away what power it has and decent highway manners, or just suck it up and go slower in the rough with that super short wheelbase. They used 32s on that magazine Explorer, which is a bit longer than the BII. Not a huge tire.

Yeah I just put on a new set of 235/75 Falken AT3W's, and it handles/drives fantastic, love how nimble it is and cruises fine on the freeway. Not really wanting to up the tire size just yet if I can help it, although U-turns get a little hairy without the front sway bar if I'm not careful hah. I know when I go bigger I'll want to swap the engine, which isn't ideal at the moment.. trying to convince myself I don't need to buy some used Autofab bent beams and tubular radius arms, trying to keep I clean and simple, and mostly stockish appearing.

Decided to not be a dingus and keep this one stockish and simple since it's my daily, eventually I'll get some shocks to replace the crusty old stock ones.. currently chasing electrical gremlins. Anywho, anyone know of a good glass shop in San Diego? It's got the typical leak around the top windshield corner, and the seam where the drip rail comes towards the windshield. So I need my windshield pulled and resealed, and the seam in front of the drip rail refilled. Already called All Star Glass and they won't do it even though my windshield is chip and crack free, the rep on the phone said the sealed wouldn't adhere to the old glass..? Doesn't make sense since they'd be scraping off all the old crap

The glued in windshields are VERY hard to remove without breaking. My guess is that was just a line of BS to get you to go away. I'd bet the job isn't worth it to them at the risk of breaknig your window trying to pull it & being on the line for a replacement.

ChaseTruck754 wrote:The glued in windshields are VERY hard to remove without breaking. My guess is that was just a line of BS to get you to go away. I'd bet the job isn't worth it to them at the risk of breaknig your window trying to pull it & being on the line for a replacement.

Welp that's annoying.. if they think they can't do it then idk if I'd want a less reputable shop to try and do it.. guess I'll have to look into replacing it unless I can talk them into trying to reuse the old glass ad if it breaks I'll just pay the difference and buy one..

I could be wrong - just guessing. I just know the glue ins are a pain in the arse & no matter how much care has been used they tend to break when coming out. Maybe call back, talk to someone else there if possible & just flat out ask???

Yeah I'll have to look into it more when I have time. Can anyone suggest a reasonably priced muffler for this little stock 2.9? Don't wanna be as loud as my 5.0, just want a little deeper tone and better flow. Planning to shorten the exhuast up to the fuel tank or rear axle soon too since I hate how low the tailpipe hangs

I'd check craigslist to save some cost. Also eBay has some darn good pricing including shipping. Spintech, magnaflow, flowmaster, etc. all work well & sound good. Depending on how tight the budget is I'd almost base it on what you could find the cheapest in the right pipe size. You may already know this but with the chamber mufflers like the flowmaster the more chambers the quieter it is. There was a single chamber on my tacoma when I bought it that made it sound like an angry bumble bee with the 4 banger. I quickly dumped it for a 2 chamber and it got quieter and more "mellow" (less raspy I guess - not sure how to describe it) of a sound. If you want truly mellow a 3 chamber quiets things down even more.

Almost impossible to remove that WS without cracking it! That is a common WS though & should be able to have it replaced for $120 or less...

Most glass shops can buy that WS for less than $40

Mojo wrote:Most glass shops can buy that WS for less than $40

Thanks, yeah seems like the only viable option right now. ASG quoted me $200-something, I'm sure I can get it done cheaper elsewhere, just a matter of finding a trustworthy glass shop

Looks like I’m gonna take it off the market and tear down the front suspension, not completely sure what I’m doing but that keeps it fun haha right now it looks like I’ll be running a combo of James Duff mid travel and Skyjacker lift parts up front. Hoping I can keep my factory 2wd beams for now with drop brackets, but even if I end up swapping over to Dana 28 or 35 beams it’s gonna stay 2wd. No idea what I’m gonna do with the rear yet but I’ll cross that bridge once I get there.

Been awhile since I’ve touched it, non-opp’d and waiting for time and parts. Should have a front end kit pieced together from Csdrums soon, and got some rebuilt 2.25 body 10” shocks for the rear. Traded the Ranger bed cage I got from Chris for a smaller bed cage out of another B2, but with these shocks I’ll be able to keep everything under the bed with some 4” lift leafs or extended shackles with my current add-a-leafs aaa temporary solution

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A buddy of mine was running this bed cage with 14s in his B2 before I got it, but I like the idea of not cutting into my floor boards so if anyone wants this thing for their Ranger/B2/Expo hit me up


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Sounds like it will pretty cool, I like b2 builds